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Nick L

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About Nick L

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    Canopy Polisher
  • Birthday 12/12/1989

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    Denver, CO
  1. Thanks guys! Yep, that's the place! Have to pace myself - I can't seem to walk out of there without buying something...
  2. Hi everyone! Here's my first model in a few years. I bought this kit in the spring of last year after discovering a great hobby store in the Denver area (something that I never had in my hometown of Philly), and after deciding that I needed something to occupy my time. Progress was good at first: ...and then I left it this way for about 8 months as work got super-busy, I started going to school for my master's, and friends, family, and vacations entered the picture. Finally, at the start of the new year, the guilt of seeing it sitting forlornly on my desk for so long got to me, so I ginned up some motivation and finished it off. It's not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, and I can think of 20 things I wish I'd done better, but I guess it does look okay on my shelf. I tried a few new things with this model. I bought a set of Micro-Mesh sheets, which really helped the finish. I could have gotten a much better finish if I'd gone over it with them after each painting and clear-coating step, though. Oh well - something to keep in mind for next time. Also, I made my first attempt at resin casting with this model. The nose wheels in the kit are too small (the 747 uses the same size wheels and tires all around), so I made two copies of the main wheels - amazingly, the whole process worked on the first try! The only non-OOB parts of this model were those nose wheels and the replacement I made for one of the four microscopic pitot tubes that I lost to the carpet monster. On to the photos (apologies for the lousy cell-phone photos): Thanks, Nick
  3. Hi everyone, Would anyone be able to spare a decal sheet from a Zvezda 777-300ER kit? I'm planning on building mine in the kit colors and could use a spare set for when I inevitably mess up. Also, if anyone has a pair of white "GE90" logos they would be willing to part with, I'd really appreciate it as well. Thanks, Nick
  4. He is good in my experience. Sometimes shipping can be a bit slow (understandable since it's not his full-time job) but the last few times I've ordered from him he shipped my orders out quickly. He always replies promptly to my emails too. Definitely trustworthy IMO.
  5. All 777-200LR, 777-300ER, and 777F aircraft have -115Bs. If you are open to doing some surgery and stretching your model, you could still do a KLM aircraft, as KLM also fly -300ERs: http://www.airliners.net/photo/KLM---Royal/Boeing-777-306-ER/2027100/L/ Note that if you're going to make any of the "long range" 777 versions, you need to add raked wingtips. Also, if you want to do a -300ER, you may want to replicate the "semi-levered" main landing gear. Compare this (-300ER): http://www.airliners.net/photo/KLM---Royal/Boeing-777-306-ER/1979939/L/ to this (-300): http://www.airliners.net/photo/Emirates/Boeing-777-31H/1944276/L/ For other airlines, there are really too many to list. Check this table out and take your pick: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Boeing_777_operators#Active_operators As for the kit itself, fit is OK in most places. I would thin down the trailing edges of the wings, fin, h-stab, and pylons, and round off the flap track fairings as they should not be squared off. Also, you need to do some trimming down of the kit fuselage to get the Contrails nose to sit properly, otherwise it will be tilted back. Here's one I built a while ago with the Contrails nose and all of the changes I listed above: http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=227152&st=0&p=2168016entry2168016 Nick
  6. Just FYI, the PSA "Flights of Fancy" 777 also has the GE engines. The -115B fan is bigger than the -94B (128" vs. 123") which means the cowling is bigger (also longer) and the pylon is different. The -115B fan also has the swept blades.
  7. It's Kulula Air, which is a South African airline (but not related to South African Airways, as far as I can tell). Draw Decal put out a sheet, here it is: http://www.drawdecal.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=31706 Nick
  8. Braz used to do all three (plus some other Airbus types) in resin, 1/200 scale. I think they're all out of production now, though.
  9. Great work Jelle! Can't wait to see this one finished. Just one question if you don't mind - how did you mask the passenger windows (they come as clear parts if I recall correctly)? As for Robert's question, I think I get what he's talking about - on the big blue decals there is a square cutout at the bottom where the wing TE goes. He is asking why this area is not covered in the decals. To answer that question - you have to paint the lower part of the fuselage (that will not be covered by the decal) the same shade of blue as shown on the decals before applying them - then the entire area will be covered. The decals only cover the most difficult parts of the scheme - the blue stripes on the mid-aft fuselage and the feathered light blue. It looks like a very impressive sheet - I'm considering building one of these.
  10. Thanks William. The Minicraft kit is okay, but not great. Main problems are the misshapen nose, thick trailing edges on the wings, horizontal and vertical tails, and engine pylons. Other problems are wrong cross-sections on the flap track fairings and engine pylons (squared off instead of rounded). You can fix everything except the nose with some effort (and a big file, or a lot of sandpaper). The nose can be fixed with aftermarket resin, or you could graft a 767 nose onto it if you can spare one. It will still not quite be right but it will look better. The only other kits out there in this scale are the Doyusha and Welsh Models (which is a vacuform kit). The Doyusha has thinner trailing edges and a better nose, but the engines are worse than the Minicraft's, it still has the problems with squared-off pylons and fairings, the pylon trailing edges are still wrong, and the windows and doors are all molded too low so you'll need to fill them in. It's also out of production (last I checked) and much more expensive than the Minicraft kit. I don't know anything about the Welsh kit and I've never seen one built, but I hear it's not bad. If you know how to build a vac kit and can find one it might be okay. Overall the Minicraft is the best value for your money. It just takes a little effort to turn into a nice model. Nick
  11. Thanks guys, really appreciate it! ;) Nick
  12. Thanks Ray. Yeah, in retrospect that would have been a good idea... :)
  13. I actually finished this model some time ago, but never got around to sharing it until now. It's not contest-worthy by any stretch of the imagination but I'm pretty happy with it. Of course Continental is now no more (that shows how long ago it was... ) I used the Contrails resin nose for this model. IMO I think it really helps the look, but it's not a drop-in fit. You have to do a lot of trimming and test-fitting to make it look right - if you just cut off the kit's radome and attach the nose it won't sit properly. It took me a while to figure out what was going on, but if you play with it for some time you'll see where to trim. Also, when it is finally attached there's quite a bit of filling that needs to be done. All in all though I think it's worth it. Other changes were to thin the trailing edges on all of the flying surfaces and the pylons, round off the flap canoes and the top of the pylons (these used a ton of sandpaper...), and add some scratchbuilt details (antennas, anti-collision lights, engine strakes, and a small gear door for the main landing gear). I painted the model with MM enamels and used Flying Colors decals for the main scheme. Smaller details (pitot tubes, cargo door decals, the Star Alliance logo, etc.) were pieced together from various decal leftovers. Finally I added some light weathering using pencil dust. Thanks for looking! Nick
  14. Thanks very much for the comments!
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