Nick L

Thanks guys! Yep, that's the place! Have to pace myself - I can't seem to walk out of there without buying something...

Hi everyone! Here's my first model in a few years. I bought this kit in the spring of last year after discovering a great hobby store in the Denver area (something that I never had in my hometown of Philly), and after deciding that I needed something to occupy my time. Progress was good at first: ...and then I left it this way for about 8 months as work got super-busy, I started going to school for my master's, and friends, family, and vacations entered the picture. Finally, at the start of the new year, the guilt of seeing it sitting forlornly on my desk for so long got to me, so I ginned

Hi everyone, Would anyone be able to spare a decal sheet from a Zvezda 777-300ER kit? I'm planning on building mine in the kit colors and could use a spare set for when I inevitably mess up. Also, if anyone has a pair of white "GE90" logos they would be willing to part with, I'd really appreciate it as well. Thanks, Nick

He is good in my experience. Sometimes shipping can be a bit slow (understandable since it's not his full-time job) but the last few times I've ordered from him he shipped my orders out quickly. He always replies promptly to my emails too. Definitely trustworthy IMO.

All 777-200LR, 777-300ER, and 777F aircraft have -115Bs. If you are open to doing some surgery and stretching your model, you could still do a KLM aircraft, as KLM also fly -300ERs: http://www.airliners.net/photo/KLM---Royal/Boeing-777-306-ER/2027100/L/ Note that if you're going to make any of the "long range" 777 versions, you need to add raked wingtips. Also, if you want to do a -300ER, you may want to replicate the "semi-levered" main landing gear. Compare this (-300ER): http://www.airliners.net/photo/KLM---Royal/Boeing-777-306-ER/1979939/L/ to this (-300): http://www.airliners.net/ph

Just FYI, the PSA "Flights of Fancy" 777 also has the GE engines. The -115B fan is bigger than the -94B (128" vs. 123") which means the cowling is bigger (also longer) and the pylon is different. The -115B fan also has the swept blades.

It's Kulula Air, which is a South African airline (but not related to South African Airways, as far as I can tell). Draw Decal put out a sheet, here it is: http://www.drawdecal.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=31706 Nick

Looks super! :)

Braz used to do all three (plus some other Airbus types) in resin, 1/200 scale. I think they're all out of production now, though.

Great work Jelle! Can't wait to see this one finished. Just one question if you don't mind - how did you mask the passenger windows (they come as clear parts if I recall correctly)? As for Robert's question, I think I get what he's talking about - on the big blue decals there is a square cutout at the bottom where the wing TE goes. He is asking why this area is not covered in the decals. To answer that question - you have to paint the lower part of the fuselage (that will not be covered by the decal) the same shade of blue as shown on the decals before applying them - then the entire area wi

Thanks William. The Minicraft kit is okay, but not great. Main problems are the misshapen nose, thick trailing edges on the wings, horizontal and vertical tails, and engine pylons. Other problems are wrong cross-sections on the flap track fairings and engine pylons (squared off instead of rounded). You can fix everything except the nose with some effort (and a big file, or a lot of sandpaper). The nose can be fixed with aftermarket resin, or you could graft a 767 nose onto it if you can spare one. It will still not quite be right but it will look better. The only other kits out there in this

Thanks guys, really appreciate it! ;) Nick

Thanks Ray. Yeah, in retrospect that would have been a good idea... :)

I actually finished this model some time ago, but never got around to sharing it until now. It's not contest-worthy by any stretch of the imagination but I'm pretty happy with it. Of course Continental is now no more (that shows how long ago it was... ) I used the Contrails resin nose for this model. IMO I think it really helps the look, but it's not a drop-in fit. You have to do a lot of trimming and test-fitting to make it look right - if you just cut off the kit's radome and attach the nose it won't sit properly. It took me a while to figure out what was going on, but if you play with it

Thanks very much for the comments!

Thanks for the comments. The Hellcat is my favorite WWII fighter and I'm glad to finally have a model of it. I considered giving it a semi-gloss coat, but I had seen period photos that showed a visibly high gloss finish so I left it as is. It is called "glossy sea blue" after all! :) Nick

Just finished this last night - my first prop! Straight out of the box - this kit goes together really well. I actually managed to get away without filler on most joints (the cowling and drop tank being the only problem spots - but those were probably my fault!) I'm definitely thinking about doing another one - probably a -3 with the three color scheme. Antenna wire made from stretched sprue. Spinning prop courtesy of mother nature. Exhaust stains were my first attempt at freehand work with my airbrush. Used a mixture of Wal-Mart craft paints heavily thinned with water. I couldn't r

Glad to hear you don't have problems. This is where I heard about it from. You can see it, it's not severe but it's there: http://www.airlinercafe.com/photo_6974.details Won't stop me from using their decals in the future (har har...) though. I'm not bashing Draw's product here at all, in case it sounds that way...

Also, I have heard that you shouldn't use Future over them as the decals will react and yellow. Never having used them before I don't know for sure but it's something to be aware of.

Hey guys, Doing a little digging on the forums it seems some people like 3M Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty (the red stuff). Went out and bought a tube, and it seems to work nicely but I have a couple questions: 1) How long do you let it dry for? The instructions that come with it say 20-25 minutes. Should I be waiting longer before sanding it down (like overnight or 24 hours)? 2) Has anyone experienced it softening the plastic? I sanded after 25 minutes and it sands well but the plastic softens (I can put a dent in it with my fingernail whereas I can't on a non-filled surface) How long shoul

Contrails makes a resin nose correction for the MC 777: http://www.drawdecal.com/contrails.htm Nick

http://www.andysmodels.me.uk/models/images...egawa_00811.htm Hope this helps, Nick

This is a Chinese kit maker, they are known for copying other manufacturer's kits. The 744 I think is a copy of the Airfix/Doyusha 1/300 744 and it's pretty terrible, especially the landing gear. They also put out several other airliner kits including a 777 (no idea where that came from, maybe an upscaled Dragon 1/400 kit?) and an A340 (with a 777 nose!). So I would stay away.

For the A330 I made a while back I just used MM Acryl "Aluminum". Since (according to Jennings) that is what it is, I figured it's good enough. Plus, it seems to match the die-cast and pre-made plastic models in my collection so it looks alright to me.

Flightpath: FP44-168 Walkway details (comes in a set with A300/310/320 decals as well) FP44-222 Malaysia FP44-245 Dragonair