TXCajun

I guess it goes to show you that all these fancy new laminates bring a different set of rules and problems to the field.

OD green is, believe it or not, NOT a mix of blue and yellow. It is a mix of black and yellow. If you add more black or yellow, you will affect (correct me if I'm wrong here) the tonal value of the color. If you are looking to simply portray a faded color, then there are a couple of ways to go about this. On aircraft fabric surfaces that are/were OD green, they seem to fade to a yellow-er version of the original. On metal surfaces, they tend to start looking chalky, which probably could be achieved by adding gray or white to the original. I would break out a sheet of styrene, and spend a da

What if you took eight straight pins, cut off the top, insert them in a section of brass or aluminum tube so that they are arranged in a circle and slightly below the point of being flush. Then use that to mark the circle. You might have to experiment a bit, but maybe you get the general idea. Stew

If you were looking for 1/48th, I could help you. I have two sets of the sheet that came with the old Monogram kit and they are in decent shape.

Or, if you are extremely lucky, find a now OOP Cutting Edge Resin conversion wing. However, Pete's recommendation is probably the best bet. Combine the Hasegawa RF-4C fuselage with the F-4B wing and main gear. Not sure off the top my head if the afterburner cans were the same on the B and C, though. Either way, one of the kits will have the right ones. Bon Chance! Stew

Hi folks. I just picked up a 1/32nd scale Academy Sopwith Camel F1 at a kit auction ($5.00) and after much searching, I have found a Polish company called "Part" that makes what appears to be a very nice photo etch set for this model, which otherwise is quite plain detail-wise. ( http://www.part.pl/ ) So, does anyone know if there is a US distributor for Part's product line? Thanks for any insight... Stew

Does anyone know if after-market metal landing gear was ever made for the 1/32nd scale Revell F-15C? Google isn't coming up with anything.... Thanks in advance. Stew

I have a friend who uses a Paache external mix, siphon, single-action airbrush for most of his work and I've seen him get pencil-thin lines. So, if the pressure is low enough and the paint is thin enough, it can be done. I have an Iwata HP-CS and I can get pretty thin, but much of my control issues come from trying to keep my hand steady!

Man, I've got that one in the stash and actually pulled it out the other day to ponder building it sometime in the near future. You sure did a nice job with it. Thanks for posting! Stew

It's leased from Astraeus. Except for the Iron Maiden name and the tail graphics, the paint scheme is the same as their fleet aircraft.

As far as the Monogram kits go, both feature the wing with the bulged wings over the wheel wells and the beefier landing gear. So, neither would be suitable for building an N unless you did surgery on the wing. Also, the Monogram kits are based on the J or C/D respectively. So, there are avionics differences between them and the N, which is essentially and updated B. Unless you are a very patient and proficient scratch builder, my suggestion is that you patiently sock away your money until you can buy the Hasegawa B/N. It may require waiting a while until you have the dough saved up, but I th

I like the plain old VT-7 extra. I've seen lots of special commander markings, etc., but I'd just like to build a a bird that saw use and abuse as an every-day trainer on the Lexington or Forrestal. Eagerly awaiting a proper T-45 kit and associated decals...

Wow. Hasegawa's KI-43 in a weekend!?!??! Man, I'd be lucky to have time to get through the first read of the instructions in a weekend!!! Couple of questions... Did you apply a gloss coat (Future or something like it) over the paint and let it fully cure 24-48 hrs BEFORE applying the decals? Did you use Solvent/Setting solutions with the decals? I'm going to guess that the answer is maybe no... I would try using solvaset applied gently over the decals with a soft modeling paint brush. You can also use the MicroSol. I think Solvaset has a reputation for being a bit stronger. Once you have t

FWIW, Draw Decals has the gen-u-wine gold "U.S. Navy" decals as used on the Hellcats. It wasn't yellow, apparently. The Fonderie Miniatures F11F comes with decals for the Blue Angels aircraft. It is the later F11F with the longer, rounder nose. The early F11F is represented by Lindberg, which also has the Cutlass. Both Lindberg offerings are rough kits but can be made into nice models with work. (Mind you I said "nice models", not perfectly accurate miniature representations of the real aircraft") Oh, and I heard it from a friend who heard it from his uncle's sister's cousin, that some guy

Oh that's so cool. You have sparked my interest wtih a new technique!

PLEASE stop it guys. This is silly. Electronic media is the absolute worst because people read things wrong, read into things, assume intonation, etc. There are no silly/stupid questions no matter how many search engines you use or don't use. The reality is that two folks can build the same kit and arrive at different conclusions, just like two well-meaning people can get off on the wrong foot. Apologies are in order. Shake hands and hug or something and let's get back to talking about modeling.

I've used a lot of stuff, but if you go down to the nearest store that supplies auto body shops, and buy something called "3M Acryl Blue" Putty, you can't go wrong. Basically, 3M produces three grades of this putty, the Blue is the finest "grit" and sands to a beautiful feather. The green is the same stuff as Squadron Green putty, and the Red is the same stuff as Testors putty. This stuff sells for a bout $25 for a tube nearly the size of a tube of window caulk (used in a caulking gun). Note that the fumes of this stuff are high-power, and dangerous, but it works like a charm. Just have plent

If I may... Currently, Squadron has the Hobby Boss 1/48th scale A-10 N/AW 2- seater on sale for $29.99. In the past, I have seen both the 1 seater and the 2 seater on sale for $40. With patience, you can catch some good deals on these kits, which usually retail for close to $80. In comparing the Monogram, Tamiya, and Hobby Boss kits, let's just say I gave away my Tamiya and of my two Monogram kits, one was given away and the other will be kit-bashed into something TOTALLY different. the two Hobby Boss kits will be built, however. I can't speak for the Italeri kit, but I hear it's good if you

Are we talking about Airline Hobby Supplies out of Chandler, AZ? If so, I've only placed one order from them and that was 2+ weeks ago. On Friday I was running around and found a delivery attempt from the post office. To me, this length of time to fill and ship an order is WAY too long. When I tried to contact the seller, the "mailbox was full". Admittedly, Mr. Brown had the items I was looking for (supposedly in stock), but I doubt I'll order from AHS again unless the customer service is improved. Stew

FINALLY! A good sheet for that Monogram Cobra in my closet. I'll be getting the set in 48th! Good work Floyd! Stew

Yes, you've left out a rather lage bank account!

Awright, those bottom two kill markings on the Tiffie look like Air France Concordes! You blokes aren't using them for target drones are you now?

If you don't lick your models, how then do YOU put decals on?

All that being said, pinning is certainly an acceptable way to put valuable information up front for all to see. However, has anyone considered creating a repository of hints and tips, converted to pdf format, so that it becomes somewhat of a library? Make it searchable, etc.? I, to have had dreadful issues with yellow - especially acrylics. The last bout made me swear them off. Plus, they dry in my airbrush too quickly (live in a very dry area). Sure, I can mix retarders, thinners, spreaders, peanut butter, etc. ad nauseum to make them workable for longer, but enamels are so much easier for

My rule of thumb is to use the paint-branded thinner for the appropriate paint (i.e. MM thinner for MM paints, Tamiya thinner for Tamiya paints, etc.) when I am thinning for the airbrush. I use generic paint thinner for blowing out the airbrush in-between colors. I use lacquer thinner to blow out and clean up when I finish for the session.