TXCajun

Hi all, I an currently looking for the Revell Germany 1/32nd scale Eurocopter EC-145 REGA kit. There have been several releases of this molding, but the one I am looking for has the Red and White REGA helicopter on the box. This is the kit: http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/kits/rm/kit_rg_4492.shtml An optional kit would be this one: http://www.scale-rotors.com/gallery/utilit...r-ec-145-revell I have a few things to trade, but I can also pay cash within reason. If you have this kit and are willing to let it go, drop me a PM and let me know what trade you might be willing to do for it or

Simple. Supply and Demand. Modelers are willing to pay and the increased usage of photo-etch details is facilitated by the use of these tools. so, people buy them at the price offered. Also, these are specialized, single-job tools which aren't not manufactured in mass quantities. This also drives up the price.

I got the same kit from Squadron as it is the only one available now. The Yellow ADAC kit doesn't have the parts for the cable cutters above and below the cabin, nor the skid extensions, nor the proper winch for the other side. So, If I can score the Red and White version which I'm pretty sure has the right parts, then I'll probably look at using the one I have to build a PHI model. Stew

It's driving me nust because I saw a post on another forum where a guy had done this trempe l'oeil thing !on his bipe and it actually looked like the fabric was semi-opaque - as in the sun was filtering through the fabric. It was positively stunning. Having said that, I pulled out my Hanriot and carefully observed where the shadows naturally fell. What I found is that the rib tops were light, and then the shadow actually fell to one side of the rib. The shadow was a hard line where the rib started, then kind of faded to nothing as the shadow went down to the bottom of the sag between the rib

Thanks Don. I truly appreciate the quick response. $50 is still a bit too steep for him, however. Stew

Hi all, My best friend and modeling pal has this thing for the Westland Whirlwind. At ScaleFest in Grapevine, TX this weekend he ran across the Classic Airframes kit but the guy wanted $60 for it and he wouldn't deal. Sure, it's OOP, but that was just too rich for his blood. This guy and I have been friends for more than 25 years, and a guy couldn't ask for a better friend. So, I would very much like to find one for him. I just took a look on Rare Planes Detective, and the Sea Hornet is going for $42. As such, I would have to agree that $60 is way out of the ballpark. Still, I would like to

Does anyone have a source for Fokker DVII Lozenge (Bottom) in 1/72nd scale? Thanks

I got to scratching my head over that one. Should the fabric sagging in the middle actually be lighter than the ribs? Here's my thinking. If a light source hits an uneven surface at an angle, the low points on the backside of any raised area will be shaded. Thus, since the ribs are the high points, shouldn't they be lighter and the low points (between the ribs) be darker? If so, then you would want to pre-shade between the ribs, not the ribs themselves. I did an Eduard Hanriot a couple of years ago and pre-shaded between the ribs, then used sandpaper to lightly scuff the tops of the ribs so t

Earlier this month I had the pleasure of crawling around on the first UH-72A fielded (A/C #72001) at Fort Irwin, CA. http://www.irwin.army.mil/UnitsandTenants/...Detachment.aspx I had a good conversation with an aircrew medic who extolled the virtues of the aircraft as a medevac platform. He said the cooling problems had been resolved and he should know, seeing as it gets quite hot in the Mojave. There was no indication from him regarding and performance problems in that environment either. Like most military platforms, there were teething problems up front. Anyone remember the sinking Br

Stay tuned for more interesting things in the light helo world. On May 4th , EADS North America was awarded a contract to develop the UH-72A Lakota into a light armed scout. http://www.uh-72a.com/index/index.asp http://www.armedscout.com/index/index.asp

2nd, 3rd, 4th that motion, etc. Paint too thick - should be the consistency of skim milk. Air pressure WAY too high. Spray at 10-15 psi max Note: this method requires a lighter hand with the airbrush. It might even take spraying 2-3 light coats vs. one thick coat, but the results will be well worth it! Oh, and that blu-tack stuff (or yellow tack) is AWESOME stuff. I've found nothing to beat it for irregular camo patterns! Stew

If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't get a compressor. I'd get a CO2 tank and regulator. CO2 air is dry, negating the need for a moisture trap. It is also quiet. A buddy of mine here in Texas bought a rig from a welding supply shop for about $100-$150. It's about 24" high and about 6 inches in diameter (the tank). You still need to buy a regulator, though. He says he can spray about six or seven models with it before it needs a refill. The pressure is constant (doesn't pulse like a compressor with no tank). No moving parts means little or no maintenance. You can also buy a small two-wh

I have an HP-CS. It's not what I'm told is the best brush for fine detail work - more a general purpose airbrush. However, if I thin my paint down considerably and shoot at about 8 psi, I can get pretty fine lines - around that of a .5 pencil led (or is it .005?) anyways- the standard mechanical pencil lead size.

I can say the same about my HP-CS - I really love this tool. However, take care of it. I pull the needle and tip after each color and clean with lacquer thinner, then do a total strip down and clean in a sonic jewelry cleaner after each project. Just shooting lacquer thinner through it won't clean it completely and risks gunking it up.

TC, Lemme throw out to things to consider: If you have a Hobby Lobby near you, wait until the 40% off anything coupon comes out (check the website weekly) and use it to buy an Iwata HP-CS. I did the same and I love the Iwata. Great airbrush, but needs regular cleaning due to tight tolerances. I pull the needle and the head and clean it after every use. Don't clean it and it gunks up fast and doesn't work worth a darn. Now...having said that, a good old Badger is hard to be beat. Good solid airbrush with a good warranty and support right here in the good old USofA. Of course, if you want to

As a side note: Last scale model I finished was the Czechmodel Yak-15. Based on various sources, the cockpit could have been gray, aluminum, or the blue-green color. So, I guess there was quite a bit of variance in the late WWII/early Cold War VVS. I opted for a blue-green cockpit, black instrument panel and silver in the wheel wells. I guess it was good enough for the judges as I placed 2nd place in my category in both last year's Dallas Scalefest and the Austin show, then placed 1st at ModelFiesta in San Antonio this year. Was it wrong or right? Too many differing references for me to real

I bought the Mission Models 2nd Generation Etch Mate. It's "okay", but I really wish they had stayed with a metal tool. If I were going to buy one again, I'd go with one of the small shop rigs. I hear the hold more firmly and you can use them with a razor blade without gouging it. Ask how I know They give you a bunch of plastic tools to bend with, but I'm always afraid I'm going to break them. Haven't yet, though.

Are you talking about curves around the circumference of a fuselage or horizontal panel lines? For horizontal panel lines, I'd try taping down a compound curve (used by architects) and scribing with your favorite scribing tool. I have a few, but I keep falling back to a sharp sewing needle. For lines running around the circumference of a fuselage, try Dyno label tape. However, I have recently tried experimenting with use of vinyl pinstripe tape used on cars. It is thick enough to give a good line along which to scribe and it is flexible enough to conform to compound curves. I also can find

Hi all, Looking for pictures of the cockpit interior of RAF Vampire Mk1/F1. Also trying to nail down the type of seat belts that would have been used. A friend indicated that it was probably a Sutton harness. So, I'm looking to see if possibly Eduard made a set at some point. Any assistance is appreciated. Stew

Paint (dried/cured minimum 24 hrs) Future - built up in light misting coats at 8-10 psi, 4-5 coats 30 min-1 hr apart usually does it (dried/cured minimum 48 hrs) Micro Set Decals Micro Sol (dry 24 hrs) Future - 2 misted coats as above (dry/cure 48 hrs) Flat The results look painted on

Try SmallParts, Inc. http://www.smallparts.com/ for wire and other goodies. I also buy hypodermic needles from Tractor Supply Company. I use them for canon barrels, pitot tubes, etc. As far as a collet/chuck goes, Dremel makes one for their motor tools and it screws down very tightly. http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-S-B-Powertool...k/dp/B0000302ZV Have fun!

Thanks guys. All good responses. I guess if I can find the Airfix kit, then that would be the one to go with. I'm not sure that they are produced any more, though. I'm not interested in 1/200 scale, as all of my other airliners are 1/144. My first ride in a DC-10 was on a PanAm bird from New Orleans to Orlando - my first trip to Disney World as a kid. My second was actually in a KC-10 where I got to hang with the guy in the belly as they did a refueling mission somewhere over Arizona, I think (way cool).

Does anyone make a kit for the DC-10/MD-11? I can't seem to find anything.

When you do, Floyd, make sure you let me know and I'll put a "Featured Link" on the club web site! http://www.centexmodelers.tripod.com/ Stew

Great link. I have a love for the Wedell Williams designs. I grew up in South Louisiana and went to college about 30 minutes from Patterson, LA where the WW planes were designed and tested by the Jimmy Wedell, Walter Williams, and their crew. Today the air museum in Patterson boasts 1:1 replicas (a couple of them in flying shape) of the #44, #92, and #21 plus a couple of other early racers. On top of that, there is a Beech Staggerwind used by the WW flying service and an EARLY, pre-Delta Air Lines Boeing Stearman used for crop dusting. A small but very topical museum that depicts early aviatio