TXCajun

Ditto what SouthViper said. Based on the standards of the day, the detail is a bit overstated and the panel lines are raised. However, it's a good basis for the GR1 and can be upgraded to the GR3 with some work. Get the resin sets and you'll be good to go. Neomega makes a good pit and Paragon has the flaps. Check out the Model Alliance site for great decal sets You can order from them directly or go through Hannants in the UK.

Man, that's to cool I would really like to see that one! Stew

Thanks guys. I just got the AM kit in the mail from a friend and it doesn't have the Bellevue/Ritchie scheme. AM did a whole new sheet (printed by Cartograph) that includes several Michigan ANG William Tell birds, a bicentential bird, and Robin Olds' F-4C at two different times. (After first kill in VietNam and after 4th kill). Unless I find the other scheme, I will probably opt for one of the Olds schemes.

FWIW... I have it on reasonably good authority that DMold actually did the molding for the Meteor Productions' Cutting Edge line. So, my guess is that the releases from DMold are going to either be the same product or at least the same quality molds.

Does anyone know of a manufacturer that makes 1/72nd scale decals for the F-4D (link below) flown during Operation Linebacker (Oyster Flight) by Ritche and DeBellevue? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_B._DeBellevue http://abqscalemodelers.com/F-4D_Ritchie-D...levue_SEA_2.JPG Thanks, Stew

I think the poster who noted that "best" depends on the part you are scribing hit the nail on the head. I have several scribing tools (Bare Metal Foil scriber, Mission Models scribing tools needle-in-a-pinvise, dental pick,etc.) and find that I use different ones for different jobs. Case in point: I was building a Czechmodel Yak-15 (sucker for punishment here) and started using my (at that time) brand new Mission Models scriber (very sharp hardened steel). Well, the kit plastic parts were of varying hardness and when I encountered soft plastic, the tool dug in like a knife in butter. I even b

Last year at a model contest/show, I bought a set of Draw Decals' very nice Continental Airlines livery for the 767-200 in 1/144 scale. The only problem is that I have yet to find a kit of one. Where might one start looking??? Thanks, Stew

Also, keep in mind that any paint chipping, weathering, etc. will have a different appearance, depending if the rotor blades are/were aluminum or composite.

These Look great. Will have to find my way to get a set! Question: Does anyone know if there were any VF-84 "MiG Killers" out of the Vietnam air war? Thanks, Stew

Try that Gator Glue stuff. I don't know what it is, but it looks like Elmers dries MUCH faster, and holds like epoxy. It doesn't frost the canopy AT ALL. Downright amazing stuff. I just used it on a CzechModel Yak-15 and it really worked well. I even used it to glue strip styrene to the inside of the canopy to give the vacu-formed one a bit more substance. Try it - You'll love it and never go back to anything else. Stew

Here's the link tothe guy's site. Watch the demos. Cool! http://www.dynamicscalemodeling.com/

If you want to give your model the real electronic royal treatment, a buddy of mine found this guy online who rigs an entire multi-media rig for models - lights, sound, motors, etc. My friend is building the Dragon 1/32 Bf110 and the electronics guy set it up so that he controls it with a TV remote. My friend presses a button, which starts a sequence that includes engines starting, going to idle, lights coming on, engines reving to takeoff speed, etc - all with accurate DB601/605 sounds and background music of Luftwaffe march songs. I just about wet my pants it's SO neat. I'll try to find you

Yes, they were made by Gentex. I have one of the earlier ones. I don't remember the model number right off hand, though.

Or...Here's an idea: Buy an "E" or post a trade deal where you trade your "D" for an "E"... Just a thought...

Ditto what both said, but I find that the off-brand of Silly Putty I bought doesn't stick to vertical surfaces. The "Yellow Tack" is MAHVALOUS, sticks low-tac to anything, doesn't leave greasy residue like masking with fried chicken skin does, and gives a nice hard line. Stew

I think the multi-colored lights were used to signal the rest of the formation (during radio silence) when the bombs were to be dropped. I could be wrong, though. As far as the blue lights, I did find it strange, but when examining a real B-26 recently, I did note the blue lights. I simulate the colored lights by painting the lens area bright silver, letting it dry, then over-coating with Tamiya clear acrylics (yellow, red, green, blue). This has never ceased to provide a very realisting looking light and I do it the very last thing on the model so I don't have to mask it to protect from the

Indeed Matt, you pulled it off. I saw your post in the general forum and it did seem to give you fits. Nice recovery. If I may offer a tip: I did an experiment a while ago in thinning acryl paints with Future Floor wax. I think it goes by Johnson's Kleer in the UK. Anyways, I thinned this heavy acryl paint with Future, and then brushed it on to see how it would behave. It seemed to go down nicely and dry to a hard, shiny surface. The only caveat being that because it was thinned, the pigment ratio was less and would have required a second coat. Now, mind you, I didn't thin it as much as woul

Hmmm...That's what I figured...

Wow John. That's really nice work.

Hi folks, Wondering if I might poll the audience to see if anyone has heard of/seen the following: 1/144 scale 747-100 or -200 PanAm markings Same aircraft but Delta markings 1/144 scale DC-10 kit Pan Am and Delta decals for same long shot... Thanks, Stew

That certainly fills a void in the trainer aircraft arena. Wish someone would do a reasonably priced BT-13.

Hi folks, I seem to remember that some time ago, there was a company (maybe Revell?) that offered either an MB-105 or a Jet Ranger with the markings of PHI, an company that supports oilfields in the Gulf of Mexico. Wouldn't mind grabbing one of those but I don't remember what I need to look for. Anyone remember this kit? Thanks, Stew

The "B" - I snagged it for $20 from a vendor at "Gatorcon" this past weekend. The build I was referring to may well have been a "D", so thanks for the sanity check. Gotta look more carefully next time. Well, this simplifies the build a bit, I just need to look for an after-market 2-hole pit, snag the decals on sale in Nov. from Squadron, and consider the ordinance load an F-16I would need to hypothetically blow a hole the size of Manhattan in 'ole Achminidijab's back yard. One can fantasize a bit, can't one?

Yep, if you can get the seat right (compared to Legend), I might have to dig out that Monogram Hun and embark on yet another build!

Greetings all. A quick search didn't reveal a full answer, so I'm gonna tap all you F-16 fans out there. It has been stated in another thread, that the F-16I "Sufa" is "a Block 52+ F-16D" A cross reference of some F-16I photos shows the bird with non-GE F-110 engine exhausts. However, one modeler's build I saw showed him enlarging the intakes to "big mouth" standards and using GE F-110 exhausts. So I'm sitting here wondering exactly what parts (other than the Hasegawa F-16B and CMK F-16I conversion set I already have) do I need to actually do this conversion? Sorry if I'm Thanks all, S