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About billbuccaneer

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  • Birthday 06/10/1961

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    San Antonio, Texas, USA
  • Interests
    mostly 1/72 post WWII jets, RAF post war, bringing weakly manufactured models up to standard.
  1. Paul, Excellent work on the Dornier flying boat. I especially like your weathering on the upper surfaces and the perfect look on your canopy glass. Congratulations on a fine build.
  2. Harv, Love the CF-18! I've never seen that color scheme. Well done, sir.
  3. Iván Aceituno's German Panavia Tornado is fantastic. Great build! I especially like the weathering and streaking around the engines. Congratulations!
  4. It's helped me tremendously in that I can "google" a kit review while I'm in the hobby shop and ascertain whether a particular kit is a new mold or rebox, or whether it has raised panel lines or recessed. This is especially useful with the recent Airfix kits, which are much better than their older work, but often can be found on shelves side by side.
  5. Thank you! I must've spent 2 hours on the internet and looking through books hoping for an answer. All I needed to do was post on ARC forums! Thank you!
  6. billbuccaneer

    Stuka detail

    Howdy amigos, I'm building the Academy 1/72 Stuka JU-87 G2. The model has what appears to be an instrument of some kind in an indentation on the fuselage behind the rear gunner. What is this detail? I've seen this detail modeled open, with a clear window over it, and with a hatch covering it. Which is correct? Thank you for your help!
  7. Thank you, Edgar, this is more info than I was able to find!
  8. Janissary, A couple of things; your light source is too high. Placing it lower will cause the panel lines and rivets to cast shadows, making them easier to see. Also, try setting your camera to underexpose the photo by about 1/2 f/stop. Finally, using Adobe Photoshop or one of the online photo editing programs, boost the contrast on the picture. I hope this helps.
  9. Alternative 4, This works very well for me: On many kits the bottom portion of the wing is molded in one piece, and the upper wings are separate. I glue one top to the bottom piece. I then attach this assembly to the fuselage, making sure that the wing root joint is perfectly flush. After this dries, I sand down the mounting pegs on the other wing and glue on the top, again making sure that the wing root joint is flush. This usually works quite nicely. Occasionally, I'm left with having to work on sanding flush the wing leading edge, trailing edge or wingtip. But this is much easier to do than trying to fix a wing joint that isn't flush. I hope this works for you.
  10. Jinro, Without applying glue hold parts together and sand until even. Now, while holding parts together, apply Tenax and hold tight for about one minute. Wait another minute or two and wet sand with a medium to fine grade sandpaper.
  11. Kevin, Try spraying Floquil "Grimy Black," on the entire bottom and then go back and very sparingly spraying the middle portion of panels black. Accentuate panel lines with a light gray.
  12. Thanks, RM. I hope to model Billy Fiske's Hurricane soon!
  13. Greetings all! I'm working on the 1/72 Tamiya Spitfire Mk. I. I'm hoping to model a Spitfire known to have been piloted by one of the 7(?) American pilots known to have flown in the RAF in the summer of 1940. I am having great difficulty in finding profiles and/or pictures of any such aircraft, and thus, I am seeking the assistance of any Spitfire fans/historians in this forum. All help appreciated! Thank you,
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