Inquisitor

Consumer 3d printers won't improve in resolution, they're stuck to 8k for a while. Because all consumer grade printers use modified mass produced consumer grade priced LCD screens up to 8k taken from factories that would normally end up in phones, tablets or laptops. There's no higher resolution screens of those sizes because there's no need for higher resolutions in those devices because your eyes won't perceive any higher resolution in the small screens at normal viewing distances. Even 16k or 32k resolutions are just still in the future for TVs where higher resolutions make a difference in

The sketch does work for splitting bodies, either you'd already have the sketch you used to extrude those shapes or simply project the edges of the box. As you pointed out there are many differences between how solidworks and fusion 360 handle certain things. Also one mayor difference: Fusion 360 is free for personal/hobby use. Solidworks costs a pretty penny. 😉

And that's pretty much what I've seen all model companies do with their scan data of the real planes. Just a gross outline and measurements to trace the sketches/profiles/cross-sections to rebuild the plane in CAD 😉

Each method of manufacture have their own pro and cons. Meanwhile 3d printing on the consumer side has progressed by leaps and bounds in the last 5-6 years from 2k to 4k to 8k and some making the jump to DLPs. And we're speaking of consumer grade printers that use masking LCD technology. Most of the industrial grade printers that are in the 5-6 digits price use lasers have been available for even longer.

The opel blitz truck windshield is flat enough that you'd get away with just cutting it out from clear plastic sheet. Even a lot of resin car kits get away with that. 3d printing is not the miracle tool for everything. That's one thing you learn. It not a question of if you can, but should you? My brother got that fever a few years back when he got his first FDM and printed everything in it, including screws. And knocked him back to reality asking him that. Also speaking of flat surfaces, the nature of the LCD screens used in these printers make it impossible to print a perfectly smooth f

As explained by Jeffrey, clear parts coming from a 3D printer still need to be sanded, polished and dipped in clear varnish to make them optically clear and smooth. Even if it was printed in opaque resin to use them as master for making silicone molds and casting them in conventional clear resin, that would be even more important to do beforehand. Like the old adage 'crap in crap out'. If you make a mold with masters still showing layer lines and voxels, the resin pieces coming out those molds will show the same layer lines and voxels. As examples, every conventional clear resin parts from Edu

JeffreyK above from Hypersonic models has been using a pair of Phrozen Sonic Mini 8k with 22um resolution for his resin products, it's the highest resolution printer in the consumer market without going for industrial class 3d printers and their cost and even those need post processing. If he says optical clear parts OOB without coating is not possible, it's probably because he already tested.

If it's not the thickness as some people, including OP, complain about. And that's why more than likely there's the stiffness of the film and how the decal react to setting solutions is the probable problem. I remember the same kind of complains were said about ICM's and Begemot's decals, someone complained about them being too stiff and thick and not setting in a MiG-25 build. That modeller used micro set and micro sol. Whereas I've used gunze's solutions in my builds using both brand of decals, they set nicely and disappear after a thin layer of clear just as good as any cartogr

Can't remember who it was, one of the modellers with a youtube channel made a video comparing the thickness of Tamiya decals to other brands with micrometer the last time this subject came up. Tested film thickness, white, single color and multi color parts of the decals. And Tamiya decals are no thicker or barely thicker than Eduard or Cartograph.

From what I've read someone started the rumor allegedly saying ALL shipped Buccanneers were missing sprue G & H, but upon verification Squadron is the one receiving all the claims and looks like they're the ones that received a defective lot or batch of kits. Airfix is shipping the sprues to them. Looks like everyone else's kit is ok, including mine.

You'll be waiting for an eternity then. Unless you've been living under a rock. KH closed doors last year. Rumors say Trumpyboss acquired their molds but no words on unfinished designs.

Technically all those Italeri reboxed by Tamiya have always been for the Japanese market. Although with the internet and intl shipping they have appeared outside, some of the old ones due to fixed prices and fluctuating exchange rates are cheaper than the original Italeri kit. I have several of their 1/72 Su-34 and A-10 reboxes because they've been cheaper than the original Italeri box. But in this case I don't know why you'd want a more expensive 10k+ yen rebox (that's roughly $75USD +S&H from Japan, with current exchange rates) of the italeri kit when you'd find it at the same price or e

They are asking for the T-10M prototypes Su-35 and Su-37. Not the already available and in service Su-35.

That's Tamiya's own tool. Guess you have the wrong notion that all 1/72 scale war bird collection or the boxes with a built kit cover are Italeri reboxes.

You said it yourself, sometimes you have to think if your skills are up to par to tackle some things in modeling, the same goes to dimi. This whole thread shows he has bitten more than he can chew. I'd be offending people but he should have improved his basic skills first with other kits or simple builds than trying to fix something he messed up because he doesn't have the skills for and keep throwing money away down the drain. How much money are you willing to spend for something that ends up as a learning experience? As for your KASL resin tails, as scott said big pieces of resin can warp du