Inquisitor
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Posts posted by Inquisitor
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On 9/4/2023 at 8:07 PM, Specter1075 said:
I was thinking mistakes that don't involve the molds. If memory serves, there was a mistake with a reversed logo in the Yak-130 kit, as well as volumes of mistakes in the instructions themselves across many of the kits. Those are things they could easily fix.
Not the logos, a lot of the warnings and the wing walkways are only one sided. while the tail art on their F-5 kits some of the text was reversed on one side, but at least they caught that and had a correction sheet, but not the Yak-130 decals.
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19 hours ago, arnobiz said:
Another weird thing with HLJ P&P is that when I order something that appears "In stock - 3-5 days" I am only given the option to put it in the "Private Warehouse" and no shipping estimate is provided.
The item is not charged right away but will be charged once available, BEFORE I know and agree with the shipping costs. Do others have the same problem or did I miss something (which is very possible!)? I'm a bit reluctant to place an order not knowing how much shipping will cost obviously!
Thanks,
Arnaud
Those products are not located in their main warehouse. They're either located in the warehouses of their subsidiary Beaver company or other distributors from which they have direct access to inventory. Hence when you order those items they charge till they are secured and moved to their main premises and the shipping calculator does not give shipping quotes for those, only real in stock products in their main warehouse.
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Future platforms ~ F-117
Those words should be hint as to how old that page and info is.
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On 5/25/2023 at 1:31 AM, Raffy said:
Just got one, cockpit coamings and panel detail are upgraded. External differences on the tail fairings, engine exhaust, tail ECM bumps and front upper fuselage near the canopy. External antenna detail is different. conformal fuel tank pylons difference Sadly no new outer wing pylons were included.
Nope the panels are just "new decals" and they require you to scrape off the standard F-15E panel details to apply. The coamings are the same standard F-15E coamings, not the new more faceted ones for the front and shorter coaming for the WSO. Look for photos or the BAM conversion set in 1/48 to see the difference.
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On 4/25/2023 at 1:48 PM, ElectroSoldier said:
Recent video about a printer that has, as said in the video been talked about a far bit, and bares out what I said about printers not really improving the prints as much as they will be improving the features.
Consumer 3d printers won't improve in resolution, they're stuck to 8k for a while. Because all consumer grade printers use modified mass produced consumer grade priced LCD screens up to 8k taken from factories that would normally end up in phones, tablets or laptops. There's no higher resolution screens of those sizes because there's no need for higher resolutions in those devices because your eyes won't perceive any higher resolution in the small screens at normal viewing distances. Even 16k or 32k resolutions are just still in the future for TVs where higher resolutions make a difference in big screens and are introduced first to the mass market before prices drops and they're not even in a hurry because there's no mass market appeal or use for them currently. So I don't see any company producing 16k or 32k screens to sell to 3d printer companies without the corresponding increase in price. Currently anycubic and elegoo are branching to DLP (Digital Light Processing) technology for their newer mini printers but still their newer printer's projectors are at most 2K, two steps behind the generational improvements in LCD screen resolution. What DLP improves is in the light linearity and the sharpness/crispness of each pixel projected into the resin providing detail that would rival lcd screens a step above. But even DLP might hit a price or resolution wall sooner than later. And like you said all these printer companies only have the path of adding or improving the features of printers. Another printer like the Athena from concepts3d.ca which they haven't even started any crowdfunding yet supposedly will improve printing times by having a force sensor that'll detect when your layer has peeled so it can dynamically control the up-down distance/time per layer instead of the fixed values normal printers use in the sliced files.
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7 hours ago, crackerjazz said:
I can also try sketching the edge of the box and use it for splitting.
The sketch does work for splitting bodies, either you'd already have the sketch you used to extrude those shapes or simply project the edges of the box.
As you pointed out there are many differences between how solidworks and fusion 360 handle certain things.
Also one mayor difference: Fusion 360 is free for personal/hobby use. Solidworks costs a pretty penny. 😉
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8 hours ago, MoFo said:
Note, though, that the scan... sucks. None of the holes are round, smooth surfaces aren't, and the raw scan data is basically unusable - he's just using it for gross measurements to completely rebuild the part in CAD.
And that's pretty much what I've seen all model companies do with their scan data of the real planes. Just a gross outline and measurements to trace the sketches/profiles/cross-sections to rebuild the plane in CAD 😉
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16 hours ago, ElectroSoldier said:
Going on that basis it makes me wonder if you would have progressed from resin casting to 3D printing at all.
Each method of manufacture have their own pro and cons. Meanwhile 3d printing on the consumer side has progressed by leaps and bounds in the last 5-6 years from 2k to 4k to 8k and some making the jump to DLPs. And we're speaking of consumer grade printers that use masking LCD technology. Most of the industrial grade printers that are in the 5-6 digits price use lasers have been available for even longer.
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49 minutes ago, ElectroSoldier said:
Im thinking of the Phrozen Aqua Resin Clear printed with a Sonic Mighty 8k printer.
Purely thinking about home use here.
If you modelled a simple part, say a wind screen for an Italeri Opel Blitz truck 1:35 and printed it in that clear resin what would you say it would turn out like?The opel blitz truck windshield is flat enough that you'd get away with just cutting it out from clear plastic sheet. Even a lot of resin car kits get away with that. 3d printing is not the miracle tool for everything. That's one thing you learn. It not a question of if you can, but should you? My brother got that fever a few years back when he got his first FDM and printed everything in it, including screws. And knocked him back to reality asking him that.
Also speaking of flat surfaces, the nature of the LCD screens used in these printers make it impossible to print a perfectly smooth flat surfaces. If you position that windshield or any flat surface object vertically you'll notice microscopic vertical lines and that's because the tiny little pixels in the screen are not perfect squares nor perfectly aligned, depending on the tech/manufacturer those pixels could be a series of slots, triangles, parallelograms, etc with the space inbetween them where the traces and other electronics go.
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6 hours ago, ElectroSoldier said:
What do you mean by "post processing" exactly?
As explained by Jeffrey, clear parts coming from a 3D printer still need to be sanded, polished and dipped in clear varnish to make them optically clear and smooth. Even if it was printed in opaque resin to use them as master for making silicone molds and casting them in conventional clear resin, that would be even more important to do beforehand. Like the old adage 'crap in crap out'. If you make a mold with masters still showing layer lines and voxels, the resin pieces coming out those molds will show the same layer lines and voxels. As examples, every conventional clear resin parts from Eduard are optically clear and polished. While I have several early res-kit sets where their conventional clear resin parts show layer lines and voxels, evidence that they didn't bother to sand and polish their masters before making the molds.
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5 hours ago, ElectroSoldier said:
Have you tried it with one of the new 8k printers?
I must say my first thought was not without voxel lines but Ive not tried any clear resins, only the Phrozen 8k grey resin
JeffreyK above from Hypersonic models has been using a pair of Phrozen Sonic Mini 8k with 22um resolution for his resin products, it's the highest resolution printer in the consumer market without going for industrial class 3d printers and their cost and even those need post processing. If he says optical clear parts OOB without coating is not possible, it's probably because he already tested.
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7 hours ago, ElectroSoldier said:
Its not a matter of how thick they are its how they look once theyre down.
If they werent a problem to some people then this thread wouldnt exist, so there is clearly something about them that to some people let the kits as a whole product down because the engineering of the plastic parts cant be faulted
If it's not the thickness as some people, including OP, complain about.
On 1/31/2023 at 9:25 AM, dai phan said:Hi all,
If you are into modeling, you know Tamiya kits are pretty high end kits with excellent fit and engineering. Their biggest drawback is the quality of the decals. Yes they are nicely printed, good register but so darn thick I cannot use them. For years and years while Tamiya kits are getting better and better leaving the competitors behind, they have not addressed the poor decal issue. What gives??? Dai
And that's why more than likely there's the stiffness of the film and how the decal react to setting solutions is the probable problem.
I remember the same kind of complains were said about ICM's and Begemot's decals, someone complained about them being too stiff and thick and not setting in a MiG-25 build. That modeller used micro set and micro sol. Whereas I've used gunze's solutions in my builds using both brand of decals, they set nicely and disappear after a thin layer of clear just as good as any cartograf one.
Also another modeller had a video testing different brands of solutions on several brands of decals which comes back to the problem most likely being the stiffness and reaction to the dozens of solutions and not the thickness.
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Can't remember who it was, one of the modellers with a youtube channel made a video comparing the thickness of Tamiya decals to other brands with micrometer the last time this subject came up. Tested film thickness, white, single color and multi color parts of the decals. And Tamiya decals are no thicker or barely thicker than Eduard or Cartograph.
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On 11/18/2022 at 7:44 PM, Crash Test Dummy said:
Do you have all the sprues? Missing sprues is another issue I've seen some people report.
From what I've read someone started the rumor allegedly saying ALL shipped Buccanneers were missing sprue G & H, but upon verification Squadron is the one receiving all the claims and looks like they're the ones that received a defective lot or batch of kits. Airfix is shipping the sprues to them. Looks like everyone else's kit is ok, including mine.
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1 hour ago, DarkKnight said:
Is there going to be an SM, or an aftermarket conversion, or do I have to wait for KH?
You'll be waiting for an eternity then. Unless you've been living under a rock. KH closed doors last year. Rumors say Trumpyboss acquired their molds but no words on unfinished designs.
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On 10/1/2022 at 8:50 PM, ElectroSoldier said:
Interesting, there's nothing orderable for the European market yet.
Will this be a Japan only release?
Technically all those Italeri reboxed by Tamiya have always been for the Japanese market. Although with the internet and intl shipping they have appeared outside, some of the old ones due to fixed prices and fluctuating exchange rates are cheaper than the original Italeri kit. I have several of their 1/72 Su-34 and A-10 reboxes because they've been cheaper than the original Italeri box. But in this case I don't know why you'd want a more expensive 10k+ yen rebox (that's roughly $75USD +S&H from Japan, with current exchange rates) of the italeri kit when you'd find it at the same price or even cheaper locally in Europe? And looking at the info on the cardboard it seems there are no extras to sweeten the deal, it's the same parts and decals as the original Italeri release, bar maybe a Tamiya designed instruction sheet.
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On 9/30/2022 at 8:51 AM, Solo said:
They have Su-35...
They are asking for the T-10M prototypes Su-35 and Su-37. Not the already available and in service Su-35.
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11 minutes ago, Solo said:
Yes, for example:
That's Tamiya's own tool. Guess you have the wrong notion that all 1/72 scale war bird collection or the boxes with a built kit cover are Italeri reboxes.
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19 hours ago, Gwen Phoenix said:
Told those misters that I was a complete noob, and I feared ruining the part further if I ever tried fixing it on my own. That's what I got for $90+, so dimi, if you're as noob as I am, I urge you NOT to order from KASL Hobby. Jeeez...!
Cheers,
Gwen
You said it yourself, sometimes you have to think if your skills are up to par to tackle some things in modeling, the same goes to dimi. This whole thread shows he has bitten more than he can chew. I'd be offending people but he should have improved his basic skills first with other kits or simple builds than trying to fix something he messed up because he doesn't have the skills for and keep throwing money away down the drain. How much money are you willing to spend for something that ends up as a learning experience? As for your KASL resin tails, as scott said big pieces of resin can warp due to the packaging and heat during shipment. And one basic skill when using resin is these cases knowing how to fix the warping with hot water. 1 out of 4 sets of resin exhaust I've bought from several companies come squashed or not completely round. Resin weapons and their fins frequently come warped too. And as for the water temperature, I usually use hot enough to make coffee or tea. And how much time depends on the size and thickness of the piece. If you're blowing a storm because of a warped tail that can be easily fixed, I don't know what would be your reaction if you ever tried to build resin figures.
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3 hours ago, stalal said:
The question was because scalemates site seems to show a lineage between this kit and recently released Italeri F-35B.
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-61124-lockheed-martin-f-35a-lightning-ii--1442862
Thats confusing.
No, it isn't confusing. Because that genealogy box usually agregates thinly related releases or related subjects or the companies have a certain relation. But the Genealogy lines on the F-35A don't connect, you should always watch for them in scalemates.
In this case the Tamiya F-35A stands alone without any line connecting it to anything else.
Below that stands the Italeri F-35B relesed this same year, and a line connecting it to the Tamiya rebox of it that I already provided a photo above.
3 minutes ago, Specter1075 said:Has Tamiya ever sold a reboxed kit before? I guess that would preclude them selling their own B down the road.
Tamiya reboxes plenty of Italeri kits aircraft and armor. See my photo above, they already announced they'd rebox the Italeri F-35B.
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2 hours ago, ElectroSoldier said:
No it doesnt.
It shows the Tamiya F-35A aloneIt shows the Italeri F-35B and an assumed release of it by Tamiya.
It isn't assumed. The Italeri F-35B is being reboxed by Tamiya to be sold in Japan for 10780 yen tax incl. in november.
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Another thread turning into one of those 'Hasegawa is dead', where people only count the new aircraft kit releases without taking into account all the other things they release just like Tamiya focuses most of their profits on RC and 4WD and only release an aircraft kit once in a while but with tons more hype. Hasegawa has easily twice as many cars, ships, scifi and figure new releases compared to new aircraft.
Here are the new tool aircrafts prop or jet they have released since 2010 and yes they haven't released any new aircraft for the last 4 years.
1/72 F-35B 2018
1/72 Kawanishi H8K2 2017
1/32 Mitsubishi A6M5c 2016
1/72 F-35A 2014
1/72 Su-35 2014
1/32 Kawanishi N1K2-K Shidenkai 2013
1/72 MV-22 2013
1/200 Boeing 787-8 2012
1/72 Eurofighter Typhoon 2012
1/32 Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden 2011
1/72 Su-33 2011
1/72 ju-188a 2010
The 1/48 F-22 is 2009 btw
Even Tamiya isn't immune from people declaring them dead because they haven't released any 1/48 jet in years, there was a thread like that a few years back, turning a blind eye and ignoring the fact a big chunk of their market is RC or they have been churning out new tool WWII prop aircrafts and tanks almost yearly.
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16 hours ago, Sergei Galicky, Russia said:
Hi Antony!
With all due respect to Ken, I see that he jumped to the wrong conclusion. This hinge is almost in place when compared to a real aircraft.
Best regards,
Sergei
The brass rod is Ken's correction, which as you can see in the photo falls inbetween the two panel/rivet lines same as your reference photos. The arrow marked with pencil is what I assume is the wrong position in the original kit. Or so that's what I can see since as I don't have the 1/32 kit.
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At this rate they might as well make the whole plane 🤣
Rye Field Model MiG-21
in Jet Modeling
Posted · Edited by Inquisitor
Are MiG-21's pylons angled downwards toward the front? If not then everything you've pointed out is just a consequence of the perspective of the renders, which are not looking perfectly straight at the front. The whole plane is very slightly angled downwards. The wing tanks and missile's fins are not lined up straight, you can see the fins at the top slightly bigger and the tank body 'round' cross-section turning into an oval hiding a bit of the bottom fins. The missile front fins are not lined with the rear ones. Also that slight downward angle would create that squarish shape from an oval/eliptic cross-section of the belly tank in an orthographic perspective. The horizontal tails would also look higher than supposed and the front edge to rear edge rake would create and illusion of dihedral. If you zoom in the parabollic curve of the canopy is an illusion created from the composite of two curves, the canopy curve and what looks to be the spine if it's a MiG-21 with spine, you can see the kink or point where they intersect around the middle height.
I just thrown this together to illustrate.