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David TR66

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About David TR66

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  • Birthday 01/02/1966

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  • Location
    Southend-On-Sea, Great Britain
  • Interests
    Model making, mostly 1/48th USAF, USMC or USN aircraft but also have some 1/32nd scale aircraft and a few 1/35th scale AFV's. I'm really into using etched brass, resin and scratch-building details to make my models as accurate as I can. I'm also a keen airsoft skirmisher and I give modelling demos at the local Hobby store here in Southend
  1. Hi everyone, thanks so much for the help/info. I've just discovered that the VMFA-232 a/c that I want to make is covered on the Academy limited edition "Iraqi Freedom" kit decal sheet! I'm swapping my spare decals from "Chippy-Ho" for this sheet from "Themodelstarter". The only problem I have now, is that I find myself wanting to do the C.O bug as well. Think I may have to stick to doing that one in 1/48th, don't think I could afford to go splashing out on another Academy kit. Anyway, I'm off to visit the post office, may even get some modelling done before work tonight.
  2. Hi Guys, thanks for replying so quickly and positively to this post, still kinda new to this 'puter business. I've sent emails to you seperately but figured a "public" Thankyou is in order. As for the VMFA-232 markings, I have a friend who might be able to get me 1/32nd copies of my 1/48th scale sheet. The reason for wanting to make this A/C is that it's kinda unusual to see Marines "Bugs" with colour and mission marks and this one has both! I'm going to see if I can find out what, if any changes need to be made to the Academy kit to build this A/C then, probably, invest in some Aires updates!
  3. HI guys, I've just managed to get hold of a 1/32nd scale Academy F-18C. It's the limited edition VFA-195 "Chippy-Ho" version, now it's all very colourful and everything but as I have just about every variant of "Chippy-Ho in 1/48th scale, I was wondering if any kind soul would like to do a decal/instruction sheet swap. I'm after the decals/instructions from the limited edition VFA-105 "Iraqi Freedom" kit as an added sweetener, I'm more than happy to include a set of the Phoenix 1/32nd "Chippy-Ho" 2007 decals and the "All American Bug" markings from the standard Academy kit that I don't need. A
  4. This is just way too cool! Great model, Great 'plane and a Great back story.
  5. YES, There is a god! Just got my Hasegawa 1/48th Draken. (If I wasn't in the middle of a 1/32nd Hunter, I'd have started this today!) I'm being greedy but I want a twin seat version and nice, shiny new Viggen as well.
  6. Hey, Hajo, that's a nice A-26, I'm planning on doing this aircraft in 1/48th using the Monogram kit and a Paragon Designs resin update.
  7. Hey, Johnnymac, just thought I'd comment on the A-7. You've done a truly outstanding job. I have the E and D in my to do pile, I actually started the E but then discovered the Zactoman updates and have put it on hold until I can afford to get them. I've just spent about an hour and a half reading this whole article as I also have the Aires wheel bays and cockpits but decided, shock,horror, to close up the electronics bays. I have to say, I'm feeling alot more confident about being able to get mine looking good having read your article. Thanks again and good luck with your latest project.
  8. I use Alclad grey primer and micro-filler, it goes on great, dries quickly and gives a tough, satin finish. You can use it directly from the can as long as you shake it well. I've put it through my Aztek and my Iwata with no problems. Use liquid reamer or spray-away to clean up and make sure you use a decent respirator when airbrushing.
  9. This stuff is fantastic, I used to mix my own primers but this is way better than anything I could come up with. It does spray directly from the can BUT you MUST give the can a good shaking, especialy if it's been sitting around for a while. I've put it through my Aztek, using the grey g/p nozzle and through my Iwata CMC and had no problems. It does dry very quickly if put on in thin coats and gives a really great satin finish. I also use the Alclad Black primer and haven't had any real problems with it. I think the key to getting good results from it are to use a fairly low pressure and build
  10. You could try Alclad "white Aluminium" this will go on great over a gloss black base and will give a smooth, painted silver finish. I use this for the silver doped areas on aircraft, if it's too shiny you can give it a quick blow over with a satin or matt finish varnish, (Polly Scale is great). Hope this is of some help to you.
  11. I've got the Aires wheel bay set, it's very easy to use. For the main gear bays you just need to remove the small recessed area at the rear of the Trumpeter fuselage U/C bay, the Aires parts are pretty much a drop in replacement for the kit parts. For the nose gear bay you just need to remove the moulded on detail on the bottom of the Trumpeter intake and the casting block on the Aires bay. I'm not sure it would be possible to cast a new seamless intake thin enough to use with the Aires set but my resin casting experience is pretty limited so I could be wrong. I'm also fitting an Aires cockpit
  12. Oh, this is great news, I'm putting my A-7E on hold until these are ready, I may end up with the most expensive SLUFF in the world what with the Aires cockpit and wheel bays plus the Victory Productions and Icarus decal sheets but it's going to be so worth it. As for references, the Detail and scale book is good so are the Sqadron Signal In action books #22 and 120 plus the walk around#44 and the Airdoc Post WWII Combat Aircraft #12.
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