William G

Liquid latex is not that bad to use just smells bad because of the amount of liquid amonia in it. Also you have to make sure that if you use it the paint under it is sealed. I have had a few cases where the paint got soffened under the latex. Blue Tac is great. Have been using that stuff for almost 20 years now and I actually a few years ago had to finally go buy more. I use it with plastic film to insure that I dont get overspray. also if you rol the blue tac right you get not a sharp hard edge but a soft edge for the overlap...

I've got some of those from my old Warhammer days but never ended up using them... Can you give me any tips? I've been wondering about using them, and use mostly sludge these days. John, I thin the washes and inks a little with distilled water and apply with a soft brush let them sit a bit before I use a q tip or cotton ball to clean up the excess. Always clearcoat the model before doing any washes tho, this way if I make a boo boo All I have to do is clean it up and the base paint is safe.

Phill, How long did you wait for the paint to dry before you gloss coated the model? I let the paints dry at least a week to make sure that all the thinners and chemicals that are volitile have a chance to outgass or evaporate. What kind of paint did you use for the model? If you used an enamel it might have reacted to the thinner in the clear coat. How close to the kit were ya spraying? Too close can cause the thinner in the rattle can fomulation to soften the paint on the kit. this could cause the paint to let loose its grip and peel off in blotches and finally. What were the atmosph

I have found that If I use Denatured Alchohol and place the part in a small bowl with this over night I can get almost all the paint off it and leave the canopy nice and clean. Also Denatured Alchohol is good to clean off the fingerprints oils and other stuff that you might get on the kit from touching it

Instead of buying the Detailer I use the Inks and Washes from Citadel. They are the same, come in more colors and are IMHO the best thing I can use for both kits, and figures

I take the missile and chuck it into a small battery powered drill ( bought one as a kit in Japan years ago from Marui) turn it on low ( use a wall transformer to adjust the voltage to 1.5 V) and while it is spinning i use the paints with a thin brush 2/0 5/0 or even 10/0 as needed. Also do the same with bombs if they will slip into the chuck.

I have had various results with Tamiya rubber tires. I have built a few kits with them in the past and they have done everything from staying almost new, to going gooey and ruining the hubs, to getting hard and brittle. I try to just re cast the tires in resin and going from there. saves me time hassle and the possiblility of cleaning up the furniture

Product called Rustall is a good choice. Also I have found that if I want a good rusty wash for a part to show rust trails I will take some iron filings add water and wait for a week or so. hard water here at home so plenty of stuff to make the rust happen. If you are seeing reddish streaks on an F-15 more than likely you are seeing Hydraulic fluid leaks. this can be duplicated with a thin wash of the following ( not sure of the mix, because I mixed it way back in 87 when I was at Misawa AB Japan. using Gunze Sangyo paints.Clear base, Clear Red, Clear Smoke, and some rubbing alchohol. M

I use Gunze and Tamiya Acrylics and will use the Laquer thinner to help make the paint that much Hotter ( Dries faster on the model) so as to allow it to Etch the plastic for a good grip. This means that if i am spraying a model that I have not primed first( Oh the horrors there) I mix it using a 50 50 mix paint to thinner, low pressure ( 10 12 psi) and try to not allow it to go on to thick on the plastic since I dont want to have a handfull of goo. usually this gives me a grainy appearance. After I have done this I let it dry and hit the kit with some 600 grit paper to level it out some

I Agree with MOFO, I have had to remove many decals over the years and have always had the best luck with the tape ( both masking tape and some times scotch tape.) One thing that you did not say was if you clear coated the model after the decals were applied. If you did the first two of MOFO's suggestions may not work due to the clear coat not allowing the tape to grip the decal or the decal solvent from contacting the decal itself. On those occasions I have had to resort to the sanding I have almost always had to do a touch up paint job. Hope this helps ya