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vanilla gorilla

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About vanilla gorilla

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)

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    the city that bleeds
  1. A joint called Tasca has them listed. Also, you can try Shinsengumi.jp, it's thier website. I can't decipher the navigation of it, but maybe your more patient than I am. VG
  2. Thanks again HA. I'll go with OD green and maybe some digital desert, I suppose. I'm doing the 'Hard Lic Her' tank, with the mine plow. Honestly, I'm not sure of the time frame without the info in front of me. Clumber, the company that makes the markings is called Shinsengumi. They have thier own website, just google them, haven't seen them in many other spots. Sprue Bro's. has a couple sheets from another company but not nearly as many varieties. VG
  3. Thanks HA, and the rest. I'm thinking of doing my packs in OD green mostly. Would packs and baggage on OIF Marine tanks ever be found in woodland camo? I might use that mixed with some digital desert stuff. Thanks guys, VG
  4. Saw SB's has some decals that are camo markings for uniforms, equipment,etc;. One set was desert, one woodland. I found a company that had a full line, including modern digital patterns. Anyone used these? I'm thinking I might try them for the baggage on my Abrams. Any tips, including where you might have picked 'em up would be great. Thanks, VG
  5. Like the pastel guys, I use those and a soft graphite pencil. Sharpening the tip helps me get a little more accurate, darker, starting point. From there I "pull" the first bit of the marking across the panel line with a very short, stiff bristled brush. Gives the line a nice gradiation rather than a line with only one shade. Looks a little more realistic to me. VG
  6. I've actually had better results in the cold, as long as the paint itself is warmed enough to maintane it's appropriate consistency. I think the bigger concern with painting and temps is the humidity levels. Cold and dry is fine, warm and wet is no good. VG
  7. This might be a little more accurate in the end. Depending on the bird your doing. I've noticed most jets, after they get beat up, look pretty "neutral" with all the fading, staining and weather damage. As said before, darken or lighten either of the grays if your set on a sharp demarcation line. Otherwise, fade the lighter areas with super light coats of white with a post-shading spray and she should be money. VG
  8. There's only one Mike squadron...311. Find those or put the box back on the shelf. VG
  9. It would be tough looking. I might even paint the under coat a version of the Army-green scheme and lay the Marine grey over it, really lightly in some worn out spots so the "old" green shows through. Give it that "home made" look, combined with some heavy weathering. VG
  10. I vote for the USMC scheme. Just don't forget the balding tires, frankensteined panels, touched up paint spots and LOTS of dirt and grime..just the way a Marine bird should be. VG
  11. I bought a bottle of this stuff. Seemed good enough, but when using it on a Hase' A-4, it had problems keeping the seams together. Some parts would split open on thier own at times. Is there a step or prep trick I missed? VG
  12. For large areas, I've had great results with the Tamiya rattle cans. I suppose customising the color would be a limitation, but if it matches up out of the can, your in business. VG
  13. Uprgrades, calenders, budgets, chow halls..whatever. Some groups are used to getting it done with less, that's the history and tradition. In the near future, I don't think it will matter. Seems to me, that the Gov't. is heading in the direction of a homogenized military fighting force. Before long, there will only be one "team". And what difference does it make? The different branches play different roles not because no one else can, but because that's the way our military is set up at present. Paint an AH-64 grey and stencil USMC on it. Take the USAF markings off a C-5 and mark USMC o
  14. I have the Iwata Studio Series compressor, works great for me. VG
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