vanilla gorilla

A joint called Tasca has them listed. Also, you can try Shinsengumi.jp, it's thier website. I can't decipher the navigation of it, but maybe your more patient than I am. VG

Copy that, thanks. VG

Thanks again HA. I'll go with OD green and maybe some digital desert, I suppose. I'm doing the 'Hard Lic Her' tank, with the mine plow. Honestly, I'm not sure of the time frame without the info in front of me. Clumber, the company that makes the markings is called Shinsengumi. They have thier own website, just google them, haven't seen them in many other spots. Sprue Bro's. has a couple sheets from another company but not nearly as many varieties. VG

Thanks HA, and the rest. I'm thinking of doing my packs in OD green mostly. Would packs and baggage on OIF Marine tanks ever be found in woodland camo? I might use that mixed with some digital desert stuff. Thanks guys, VG

Saw SB's has some decals that are camo markings for uniforms, equipment,etc;. One set was desert, one woodland. I found a company that had a full line, including modern digital patterns. Anyone used these? I'm thinking I might try them for the baggage on my Abrams. Any tips, including where you might have picked 'em up would be great. Thanks, VG

Like the pastel guys, I use those and a soft graphite pencil. Sharpening the tip helps me get a little more accurate, darker, starting point. From there I "pull" the first bit of the marking across the panel line with a very short, stiff bristled brush. Gives the line a nice gradiation rather than a line with only one shade. Looks a little more realistic to me. VG

I've actually had better results in the cold, as long as the paint itself is warmed enough to maintane it's appropriate consistency. I think the bigger concern with painting and temps is the humidity levels. Cold and dry is fine, warm and wet is no good. VG

This might be a little more accurate in the end. Depending on the bird your doing. I've noticed most jets, after they get beat up, look pretty "neutral" with all the fading, staining and weather damage. As said before, darken or lighten either of the grays if your set on a sharp demarcation line. Otherwise, fade the lighter areas with super light coats of white with a post-shading spray and she should be money. VG

There's only one Mike squadron...311. Find those or put the box back on the shelf. VG

It would be tough looking. I might even paint the under coat a version of the Army-green scheme and lay the Marine grey over it, really lightly in some worn out spots so the "old" green shows through. Give it that "home made" look, combined with some heavy weathering. VG

I vote for the USMC scheme. Just don't forget the balding tires, frankensteined panels, touched up paint spots and LOTS of dirt and grime..just the way a Marine bird should be. VG

I bought a bottle of this stuff. Seemed good enough, but when using it on a Hase' A-4, it had problems keeping the seams together. Some parts would split open on thier own at times. Is there a step or prep trick I missed? VG

For large areas, I've had great results with the Tamiya rattle cans. I suppose customising the color would be a limitation, but if it matches up out of the can, your in business. VG

Uprgrades, calenders, budgets, chow halls..whatever. Some groups are used to getting it done with less, that's the history and tradition. In the near future, I don't think it will matter. Seems to me, that the Gov't. is heading in the direction of a homogenized military fighting force. Before long, there will only be one "team". And what difference does it make? The different branches play different roles not because no one else can, but because that's the way our military is set up at present. Paint an AH-64 grey and stencil USMC on it. Take the USAF markings off a C-5 and mark USMC o

I have the Iwata Studio Series compressor, works great for me. VG

There are two approaches to building a nice model, in my opinion. The first approach, is to spend as much money as you can on a kit, supplies and after market products. This, combined with some skill and patience will usually ensure a "quality" result. The second, is to spend as little money as possible on the kit, supplies and after market products as possible and apply as much artistic ability as you can to achieve a nice result. I find the latter to be the most satisfying, least stressful and fun. In the beginning, buying a reasonably priced kit, such as the Revell Hornet boxing's, wit

I'm not familiar with this particular set but the PE I have worked with in the past has come out nicely by first spraying the parts with a light coat of Tamiya primer before I remove them from the (whatever the hell they come on is called). Cutting them off with an exacto and glueing with CA as with any other parts. Hope that helps or at least doesn't make matters worse for you. VG

Speaking of...is it practical to throw the nose cone from the Revell 'D' onto the Academy Bombcat in order to correct the nose "issue"? VG

As always, this is your model. It's your version of a specific incident frozen in time. You can make up whatever story that model represents that you want. It may be a stretch, but I'm sure, within reason, that a scenario could develop resulting in such a scene. An equipment malfunction on the Cat. or JBD. Perhaps the planes engine took a crap or a control surface malfunctioned...I'd say it's plausible. VG

The Revell A-10 comes with CBU-52's. Not sure if those could substitute or not. If so, and you can't get your mits on 'em, let me know. I have 4 I'd be happy to give. VG

I like the Revell 'D'. Can't beat the price and with the money you save you can really dress it up nicely. Throw some gas bags, bombs, intake covers and RBF tags on her and you can make one very eye-catching turkey. The panel line thing is a non-issue for me. A decent paint job and some good weathering can more than compensate for the raised panel lines. The whole build of this kit is more fun and less stress for me. VG

I didn't check the links in the above post, not sure if this is mentioned. On my Foxtrot Hornet I used the formed-playdoh-in-plastic-wrap method. Basically, paint the intakes white then form a small square of playdoh into the shape of the intake. Wrap the playdoh in plastic wrap to prevent staining and carefully press it into the intake until you have the section to be painted gray exposed. Worked fairly well, with some more patience I could see it working great. VG

No offense taken... . I have two now, got my second the other day. One for sure will be a Playboy from VMAQ-2, of course. I'm think'n I might try an in-flight with the other..have never done one. Whatever it is, it will say Marines on the side. Any other guys have plans for yours figured out? VG

I appreciate the intel gent's. Thanks for your time and input. I'll see what I can come up with. VG

Alright, we're makin' some progress here. That's what I pay for, right? So, 48th it is, I'm just not into 72nd. I'm not a Helo guy so pardon my ignorance, which kit would fit the bill and anything on the radar for markings? Thanks again. VG