Dave Shaw

Just to add my two cents, that is a work of art. I love to see those old Monogram kits kicking after all these years. I really like your NMF! One day I'll too have the guts to try it. Dave Shaw

Wow, someone used the search feature on the site to dig this old post up. I was shocked to see it on the front page again. I sure would like to see anybody else’s use of this technique if they have tried it. I hope it worked for all that have tried it. Please post your pictures. I would also do my best to answer any questions that anyone has who might have had trouble using it. Dave Shaw

I think it is a common idea to paint them a single color with a wash and maybe some dry brushing. The problem I find with this is they are not a single color such as Steel, Rust, or Jet Exhaust / Burnt Metal. The superchargers get extremely hot when in use and this causes the metal to turn a variety of colors. I see so many great and beautiful models only to see them fall short on superchargers and exhaust stains. The big trick to set your project apart from the rest is to just study photos and try to copy what you see. The first thing is to get a good color reference photo. I found a g

Thanks for the feedback. I don't know, the seam on the exhaust may not be on all aircraft but there are seams on this restored one... http://walkarounds.airforce.ru/avia/usa/p-39/index.htm Now I will grant you that they are a little over done as seen on my P-39... but whatcha gonna do. Thanks again for weighing in. Dave Shaw

Yep, that's what that is alright. I had no idea it was there until I pulled the masking off. what a blockhead eh? :blink:

Monogram 1/48 P-39 Built out of the box. This is the latest re-re-release (the Promodeler version). Kit decals went on nicely with Micro Sol & Set. Model Master Enamels used throughout. I have always liked this kit. It’s a good kit to just get back to your modeling roots on. Cut away into it, I am sure I’d agree with all the flaws pointed out so don’t hold back. I always like to here feedback no mater what you think. I can’t learn if I don’t know what’s wrong. Dave Shaw

I don't use streched sprue anymore. I find it dose not have a uniformity to it. Answer: nylon "invisible" sewing thread. Dave Shaw

I think it is a common idea to paint them a single color with a wash and maybe some dry brushing. The problem I find with this is they are not a single color such as Steel, Rust, or Jet Exhaust / Burnt Metal. The superchargers get extremely hot when in use and this causes the metal to turn a variety of colors. I see so many great and beautiful models only to see them fall short on superchargers and exhaust stains. The big trick to set your project apart from the rest is to just study photos and try to copy what you see. I know this is not a B-17 but the same applies. The first thing is

"First try at heavy weathering" he says, yeah right. G'wan and tell us some more stories... oh, and say, you wouldn't have a bridge laying around not doing anything would you, I need to buy one, I hear the Brooklyn Bridge is a nice one. All kidding aside, I have been a heavy weathering kinda guy for years and I'd be pleased to have one of mine to turn out like yours is coming along. Very realistic. GREAT JOB! Dave Shaw

Let me say that your build is coming along quite nicely. I think you got most of your seams (‘cept maybe the tires :blink: ) I absolutely love your exhaust stain! I won’t rehash what has already been said so… As you are still in progress on this I assume that you are going to put a flat coat on ‘er. I think that would really help to give the well used look you are going after. On that note you said that your weathering disappeared on you when you tried to seal it with the gloss but I was wondering how the weathering kit you used would respond being applied after you put a flat coat

I say leave them raised. Sure working with raised lines can be a pain but as I build only WWII these days they look right especially for the multi engine bombers. This B-25 has raised lines and looks okay to me. Painting and weathering will give all the depth it needs. Actually, in that respect it is much easier to give the lines subtlety where engraved lines can easily be over done to my taste. I don’t think all panel lines should be uniformly black. All that being said there are exceptions, such as the F-14 above or Monograms F-18. I think the scribers spike is a foregone conclusio

This may not be for everyone but this is what I did on this P-38 I pre-shaded all of the panel lines and then painted OD 613. Given the time frame that the Lightning I chose operated in, I'd say that most likely it would have actually been OD 41. So I based my choice on ANA 613 being a little lighter in color, would work out better for scale effect. I thought it would be neat to replicate purple UV fading that I read was common to patches to OD 41 since I have never seen it done before. I started by playing with some paint on an old test wing to see if I could pull it off. I took me sever

I am not much for all the extra detail sets or going ‘A Bridge Too Far’ with scratch detailing, particularly since not much of the interior detail can be seen once it’s together anyway. That being said, I don’t mean to tell you that this will be completely a stock build. .Detail in the flight deck and cargo areas I think are adequate for what can be viewed once assembled. The only exception is the throttle quadrant, trim wheel, and pilot and copilot seatbelts. These might be seen because I plan on having the side window to the cockpit open. Last other detail will be some life raft

My Brother Bob and A Few Good Men (and woman) help Santa this Christmas with The U.S. Marines Toys for Tots and the Motorcycle Toy Run in McKinney Texas.

My two cents. I have been using MM enamels for years, my brand of choice, and I do not use a set mathematical ratio for this reason. You would need to assume that every paint jar is the same consistency before you start. By that I mean this older jar that has sat in storage for awhile, that I used a year ago, is not any thicker than the jar I just bought for my current project. We all have opened an older jar of paint only to find that it dried up completely but if it is still usable it will be thicker. That being the case, the older paint would need a bit more thinner. Another factor is wh