pigsty

Superglue (cyanoacrylate) is most people's option for resin. Small amounts of strong PVA would do it too, though they wouldn't be as permanent.

Pictures on the way, I hope. They were someone else's pigeon, I was doing the competition most of the day.

Aeroclub used to make white metal propellers, although that was a long time back; some might still be on eBay or similar. If you want weight, though, why not slip a bit of lead (or fishing weights) into the fuselage? The Beaufighter doesn't need nose weight and there's plenty of room.

Two days on and I think I've just about recovered ... Thank you to all who turned up, visitors clubs and traders alike, for making this one of our best shows yet. We had record footfall and record competition entries, and a lot of happy people, and it was busy right to the end. Roll on next year!

Just a couple of days to go now. As well as the show and the finest flapjacks south of the river, there's an open competition, too.

It is indeed getting closer! In case you've seen our show listed in any magazines, we're definitely doing it on Saturday 4 February. You can turn up on Sunday, but you may have to do yoga instead.

It's never too soon to start plugging a show ... The small but perfectly formed North Surrey coffee shop and model show will be on 4 February this year, in the usual place, Banstead Community Hall, just off the High Street in Banstead. That's SM7 3AJ for your sat-nav. Confirmed traders are: Elan 13 Miniatures Guideline Publications Tony Bareham Simon McArthur John Pol Mezzer's Minis Sovereign 2000 And confirmed clubs are: Aldershot BMSS Cambridge MAFVA East Kent Hailsham Horsham Gravesham

A lot of things have to be left out of models for various reasons: they'd be too small to show up, they'd cost more to mould, they'd put off pocket-money buyers. Things like brake lines, accurate guns (not the ones that look like broom handles), wire aerials - more often than not you've to sort out your own. But as far as I'm concerned, seat belts should be standard, especially in a cockpit that's (i) easily big enough to fit them - anything in 1/48 or bigger, and (ii) full of other detail. Missing them out spoils the effect. And I don't buy the idea that you can do without if you include

It's not meant to be a review. The "Pass Notes" column is a brief mickey-take of something that's in the news. It's fitfully funny but mostly just pointless snark. That's the good news. The bad news is ... reviews of model kits? In national newspapers? Fat chance!

Really? There were times when the aisle in front of my stand was so packed you couldn't move, and the members' queue on Saturday went clear across the car park. Plus they estimated several hundred entries in the competition, possibly over a thousand.

Well, I'd call it white. Especially if the idea is to mimic an A-7 scheme from the 1970s. Interesting that they did the radome white and not tan - but then again, that's an A-7 feature too. Back to the original question ... I plan to do exactly the same thing, and as the WHIF condition is If they'd never stopped using gull gray and white it can be applied to any Hornet. So I've got Kinetic's F/A-18C, stock code 80321. The options inside are: VFA-131 (red tails, red-white-and-blue band round the mid-fuselage, and a lot of red stencils) VFA-195 (green tails with big

Two reasons. The first is: not enough speed. Your average large modern aircraft needs to be doing well over 100mph, sometimes as much as 200, to get airborne. It was less in WW2 but still good and fast. If you drop a four-ounce model from waist height it has only three feet to pick up speed before it hits the deck. It won't get anywhere near its unstick speed. Plus, you have to remember, if it's falling nose-down any lift the wings do manage to generate will act sideways, so while it might deflect slightly, it certainly won't lift the nose and start flying level. The second i

It's a copyright violation only if you make copies and sell them, or if you ask another company to make you a set and pay them to do it. If you make your own copy (only one) and you use them only on your own model, you should be fine.

I should take myself over to Britmodeller if I were you. There are several very helpful people on there with mountains of technical stuff, and they'll be happy to send it you or post it up.

One last little reminder for you - we're on the day after tomorrow.