Alternative 4

How about adding the spine from the F-16I as space for luggage.

Sweet. Thanks. Looks like I need to place an order with you for some strengthening plates.

Thanks Dave. Does anyone know if the block 40 WAR hud in the kit? It's hard to tell from the sprue shots.

Is it possible to build a Black 40 F-16C from any of the Gold series Kinetic kits?

Every airbrush issue I have ever had has been caused by the airbrush not being clean. Pull it apart, clean every part of it then flush it with lacquer thinner.

May be helpful, may not here is a photo of a (restored) RNZAF Hudson with the codes over the windows. https://fotoweb.airforcemuseum.co.nz/fotoweb/archives/5003-Search-the-Collection/Collection/MUS0401425.jpg.info#c=%2Ffotoweb%2Farchives%2F5003-Search-the-Collection%2F%3Fq%3Dhudson I have stood beside that aircraft several times and have never noticed the codes go over the windows.

Tamiya F-35A or F-14. I had issues with the vertical stabilizers on the F-35 and found it hard to remove the seam there, but otherwise it's a feat of engineering. Tamiya F-4B doesn't count because it's the wrong variant!

I have a Portrait 3, with the basic software, have had it for a few years now and still don't have the hang of it. There is a lot to learn, but when it goes right the results are fantastic. I have cut everything from Custom Markings for a 1/32 RNZAF corsair to the belly strap for a 1/48 F-4M and am pleased with the purchase. I am currently in the process of painting a 1/48 F-100D in Thunderbird colours. A ton of work but much better than decals. And also a 1/48 Airfix Avro Anson in RNZAF markings. There are only two things I dislike (and one is due to my fat fingers): 1

Royal New Zealand Airforce A-4's and Australian Navy A-4's didn't have them.

I second this. Gives a nice smooth finish which works well for black basing Mr Color with Levelling thinner is the way to go. The paint flows nicely and lays down smooth. I live in a cool coastal climate with high humidity and this is the best paint combo I have found.

It's crazy to me that I saw the RAAF's first Wedgetail at an Airshow way back in 2005, but the USAF is only just procuring the airframe now.

I'm in for an RAAF kit.

I haven't but I suspect that Rust-Oleum is lacquer based and you should be careful with it. In this coats it should be fine over acrylic, but apply it too thickly and it might ruin your paint as the lacquer will eat into it.

I will use BRU-3A/As with snake eye bombs. During linebacker the F-111 Those wings look nice, however a little out of my budget. Thanks for your help.

Thank you, that is exactly what I am looking for. Already ahead of you on the reskit after market. I have the cockpit set, ecm pylons, multiple ejector rack and snake eyes. Will order the correct ECM pod now you mention it. I built the Hobby Boss F-111C before the reskit replacement was available and the kit canopy bugs me every time I look at it. Once you see it, it ruins the look of the kit. The F-111C I built was A8-113 which I now plan to build as F-111A 67-0113 which served in Vietmam with the USAF before being sold to the RAAF.

Does anyone have a good photo or drawing of exactly where on the F-111A the alq-87 was mounted? I'm building the 1/48 Hobby Boss F-111A and I can't seem to find anything concrete to show where i should drill holes for the two pods.

I think my acrylic (tamiya and gunze) with lacquer thinner then use the same airbrush to spray lacquer paints. No issues (touch wood) with my iwata brush. Lacquer paint however wasn't kind to harbor freight brush.

@Raymond Chung have Kinetic considered making an 1/48 AV-8B?

Nice tidy build. I found the kit a tricky build, particularly the wing join and yours looks really nice.

That is an interesting idea. So different I will give it a try.

Hey Team I make my own paint masks with my silhouette cameo but always struggle with how to place the mask correctly without it distorting. For example I am currently building a 1/48 F-100D in Thunderbirds markings and placing the masks for the stars and bars in the correct place on the fuselage was a real struggle. It took me about 5 goes to get the mask in the correct place, removing it a few times and re-sticking it down. This of course distorted the mask and made it crooked and looked a bit rubbish. I have sanded everything back and will try again but be

The B-1b in the Charles B Hall air park near Tinker AFB has it's wings swept and wheels down. It however won't have engines and is off the ground. Ditto the USAF Museum B-1b.

How about some RAAF jets? F-111 and F/A-18F decals are seriously absent from the market.

I am not sure if you are asking about the Korean War or the F4u-4 specifically, but the majority of the 400+ F4U-1 Corsairs the RNZAF operated where parked up at Rukuhia after the war and salvaged for parts then sold for scrap. More info found here: https://rnzaf.proboards.com/thread/31393/rnzaf-corsair-parts-potentially-sold Photos can be found on the above forum and here https://fotoweb.airforcemuseum.co.nz/fotoweb/

Nice job. Looking forward to seeing what you do with that A-10.