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kinnies

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About kinnies

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    Canopy Polisher

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    Wet Coast of Canada
  1. For what it's worth, I think that the Sopwith Pup is a great first WW kit to build. I would also strongly recommend looking at ww1aircraft.com. This site is truly a gold mine of information and tips, especially regarding rigging, detailing, shading etc. John
  2. Haha. Never heard that one before. Fortunately my snot slinger has stopped slinging snot.
  3. Hi there Be Safe Today: I know I am going to regret asking, but what are "snot slingers"? Most valuable tool: Optivisor. No see, no model. John
  4. Hi, I just finished this kit. I'm not the greatest modeller in the world, so take this for what it is worth. - It is an amazing kit, but be patient with it. - I ordered the Big Eduard PE, but not the Barracuda set. I sure wish I had ordered the Barracuda set. I always find PE frustrating, but keep on buying it. Duh! (I also did not use much of it). People rave about the Barracuda set, so I will order that for my big P-51 and my next big Spit. - DO NOT USE the Tamiya decals. They are like sheets of poly. For the life of me I could not get them to conform to the beautiful surfaces of this ki
  5. Hi Mikkel, By big scale I assume you mean 1/32? In 1/48 there are some very nice LAm decals from aztecmodels. I just ordered some from Hannants - Mexican, Venezuelan, Cuban, Chilean and Colombian, and everyone knows there is nothing better than Latin American jugs :P Don't know if they do 32 scale though. John
  6. Many thanks Edgar. I've read your posts on Spitfires on this and other sites and greatly appreciate your expertise. It looks like Tamiya's colour plan is incorrect. Cheers, John
  7. Hi all, I am currently building Tamiya's Big Spit and am decalling. I have hopefully simple question. Do the black "do not walk" lines (sorry, don't know what they should be called) run under or over the large wing roundels? The Tamiya colour guide shows them over, but others show them under (eg. Barracuda decals). Cheers, John
  8. Jennings, Okay, since you asked for suggestions, this would be my wishlist. P-51D post war RCAF (I know Leading Edge does some but...) RAF and RAAF P-47 and P-40 Foreign Spits I don't imagine they would be best seller is the US though. Do you plan any airliner stuff. Your old airliner decals are legendary. Cheers, John
  9. I read somewhere that lacquer thinners work well with Tamiya acrylics, so today I tried it for the first time. It sprayed wonderfully, but then seemed to dry a bit pebbly in places. Don't know why that happened. I'll have to try again sometime. So I sanded it down and reapplied with good old Humbrols and it seemed to do the trick. No matter what I do or use to thin the Tamiya paint, I can't seem to get a handle on it. Cheers, John
  10. Hi David, It was the Hasegawa kit. I haven't gotten around to taking pics yet, but plan to in the next little while. John
  11. Don't you just love kittens ...
  12. Hi David, I just completed the same plane with the same Nazca decals and they were just fantastic. It is a wonderful livery. I highly recommend Nazca. They went on well and conformed nicely using the usual setting solutions. I also recently decaled a Tu-154 with BOA Cubana decals and found them very fragile. I had to touch up a few spots that flaked off. It might have been due to my clumbsiness though. Either way, the Tu-154 now sits once again on the shelf of doom awaiting inspiration. Sorry, can't help with your reboxing question. Cheers, John
  13. I have been thinking about getting the P40E (either RAAF or RNZAF)and am now determined to. Your build is very inspiring and your tips re: the PE are great and your advice about the fit of the rear fus and tail will probably save a lot of grief. The story behind the build must be a great motivation for you. I'm looking forward to seeing more. Cheers, John
  14. Hi, I can only give a thumbs up to Krylon. It is easy to decant - I just use a straw right in the airbrush cup, so I only use what I need. It is cheap and it covers and dries quickly, so you don't have to wait and do a gezillion coats. You can also thin it with lacquer thinner if you want lighter coats, but it is not necessary. I find the Krylon Fusion Gloss white to be not as glossy as the regular gloss white though. I have also decanted Tamiya and Modelmaster rattle cans, but the economics of Krylon beats everything. Their flat white and black are also super. It costs me 3$ for a tin of hum
  15. Hi, Great video. Thanks for posting that. I'm about to start rigging a WNW Pup and checked out Des Delatorre's fabulous website, ww1aircraftmodels.com and he has a section on rigging and making turnbuckles. His models are just wonderful creations. Anyway, he follows the same basic method, but has a photo of a clever little jig to keep the cut clean and the dimensions consistent. It looks pretty straightforward, although getting the line through the tiny tubes twice looks more than a little daunting. However, I'm looking forward to giving it a shot. Cheers, John
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