Mstor
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Posts posted by Mstor
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I know you want to do the 1983 airframes, but there were also the Ferris scheme F-14s that were on the Enterprise in 1977. Furball used to do a sheet with these two.
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On 1/17/2021 at 9:37 PM, fulcrum1 said:
White Tamiya primer in the can or spray the white Badger/Ammo stuff.
+1, Tamiya or Mr Surfacer 1500 white.
On 1/18/2021 at 5:21 AM, crackerjazz said:What primer do you use? Tamiya White surface primer in the rattle can might be all you need to paint in white. Regular white paint tends to pool in the crevices.
Rattle cans blast paint out and will drown out details if you're not careful. I follow the steps below to control it.
1. Mount the part on a stick or leave it on the sprue. This way you can angle the part to see all the sides. It also prevents pooling.
2. Shake well and spray outside
3. Mist it over the part from 6-7 inches away, keeping it to a single, quick, pass per angle. Angle the part and not the can. Press down on the trigger fully.
4. Don't try to get a good coat in one pass by going slow or the paint will pool.
5. Don't spray directly onto the part but spray before and past it to keep the coat light. First coat will probably be imperceptible and may even just show up like tiny dots on the surface -- this is ok. Wait 15 minutes before the next coat. Use that time shaking the can : )
6. It takes 4 or 5 coats -- building up very thin coats is key.
It can take you an hour or so to finish but you'll get a beautiful even thin coat in the end and there won't be any heartaches or headaches from frustrating, pooling, white paint. Tamiya white primer also looks scale and not super-white or bleached-white. By the way, I've tried decanting and spraying it through an airbrush but the bond seems weaker and can chip easier - not exactly sure why. I've also tried Tamiya's bottle version but it's a different shade (?) it's still easier to use the rattle can.
THIS! Basically the way I have been spraying white for years. Discovered Mr Surfacer white and then Tamiya white primer and have used them doing the light coats method. Don't be tempted to spray on heavy. Light coats, built up slowly allows the paint develop a smooth seamless coat. If you want you can finish it off with regular white paint as they often have slightly different tones, like USAF Insignia White (I forget the FS number).
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On 2/16/2021 at 7:58 AM, thegoodsgt said:
Five reasons, IMHO.
- Inaccurate plans
- Inaccurate prototypes
- Lack of subject matter expertise
- No quality assurance
- The Dunning-Kruger effect
More on the above. LINK
Add "They just don't care enough". They want a model the looks close enough and that they can get out the door in a short time so they get their return on investment plus profit. Based on the fact that most modelers are of the casual type and don't know or care enough to spot accuracy issues, Kitty Hawk's business model makes perfect sense. Even so, difficult assembly will lose them customers at both ends of the spectrum. If a casual modeler has a real difficult time (read "not fun") assembling the kit, they aren't going to be a return customer. Experienced builders, given the choice of an more accurate (or at least as accurate) model that assembles easier, will more often chose the the one that's easier.
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On 2/20/2021 at 5:25 PM, ESzczesniak said:
I did try that. The filter settings don’t give a lot of good options. In particular, the “open orders” has potential, but filters out any shipped but not delivered orders. So of no use for tracking shipments. This is definitely a #FirstWorldProblem, but my Amazon order history has grown far more extensive in the pandemic trying to support our house with minimal human contact.
Yea, "Open Orders" is about as close as you're going to get. Obviously, Amazon "upgraded" the user interface to improve customer experience
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On 2/25/2021 at 8:45 PM, Scott Smith said:
I went down the rabbit hole of building one. Now I enjoy woodworking as another hobby that robs time from models.
Years ago I built one. Had a wood frame, top and base. 2' x 4' x .25" tempered glass shelves with beveled edges from the local glass shop. 1/8" plexiglass sides and front doors. Not a piece of furniture art but functioned just fine. Had a bunch of 1/48 and 1/32 aircraft displayed. I think it cost me around $150 to $200 in all (late '80s, early '90s).
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I just read through most of this thread. Lost a few brain cells but I don't use them much anymore anyway.
The old lady and I have our vaccine shots scheduled at the clinic we go to, not until April though. Thing is, they only do Covid Vaccine shots twice a week. Lack of staff or some such. Doesn't make a lot of sense to me. Seems that if the government is devoting so much energy and money to the vaccine rollout, you would think they could get help to clinics to expedite the whole thing.
Oh well, it is what it is. Just have to hang in there for a while longer. Frankly, I have been very leery about going out into public spaces the last few months (I'm high risk). Was going to the grocery stores once in a while, but stopped that and only get food delivered. It has restricted what we can get as not everything the stores sell is always available. But, we manage. Once I've been immunized, I think I will feel a bit bolder about going out.
Anyway, fun to read about the conspiracy theories. Folk are strange and we live in interesting times.
Now I have to take my evening dose of nanobots and then watch Star Trek repeats for the 34,000th time (the nanobots seem to help with my tolerance for watching reruns over and over again).
Cheers!
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Talk about targeting a very specific clientele.
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4 hours ago, habu2 said:
Wait, what? Is AMK releasing an F-4B ???
The AMK F-4B is unbuildable.
Think about it.
P.S. I'm back, kinda.
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14 hours ago, jeem said:
Hi Guys
I have a question on the topic. I know the whole purpose of the spray both is to vent the fumes outside but I really don't want to cut a vent hole in my house (or should I say my significant other does'nt want me to cut any holes in the house).
Do any of you vent the fumes into a sealed box with something like insulation installed to absorb the fumes. I usually paint in my garage in spring, summer and fall but when winter comes I usually don't get much painting done (winter is about 5-6 month's up here). Just wondering if anybody has done this with success or is it an absurd idea.
I've recently experimented with Mission Models paints with good results (no odor, non toxic) but I still have a lot of model master enamels and various lacquers I'd like to use. I use the harsh stuff outside and the non toxic stuff inside but it would be cool to find a solution.
I would be building a spray booth like the one that Whitey supplied the link to above
Thanks
Jim
As noted earlier in the thread, Vent-works.com makes metal window insert vents of various sizes for both regular and vertically opening windows - https://vent-works.com/products/6-inch-window-vent.
Years ago I made my own out of plywood, but if these had been available I would have snatched one up. My current set up, in my basement, vents to a dryer outlet set in a glass brick. I had the glass bricks installed in the basement window along with the vent. Looks real professional and works just fine.
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I purchased one of his F-16 ACES seat back in 2018. Had no problems. The e-mail contained Mike's phone number. Has anyone tried calling him?
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On 12/1/2020 at 4:18 PM, KursadA said:
It is actually 21:9 - I use this for drawing base profiles for decal designs, while I have a multi-monitor setup in another room for coding & decal design. The wide format makes it easier to work on aircraft side view drawings.
Ahhhh, yes. Says 16:9 up at the top but down where the details are listed it states 21:9.
I always had a dual monitor set up when I worked at home. Could have used a third one but my video card only supported two (was quite a few years ago).
Back to Kindle. I have one of the simple e-reader versions. I didn't think I'd like it, always preferred real books, but boy, was I converted fast. Books are cheaper, easy to read. The reader is easy to carry. I also have a Samsung Android tablet that has the reader installed, but I haven't tried using it. Thought it would be better for picture heavy references. Just haven't bought any reference books in a long time so I haven't tried it out yet.
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12 minutes ago, KursadA said:
It's a 35" ultra-wide monitor : an Acer CB351C.
Nice! 16:9, great for watching movies too
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1 hour ago, KursadA said:
Do you mean, like this? You can open an unlimited number of Kindle Web sessions on your desktop computer to open and compare any number of Kindle reference books.
Sorry, this was the largest monitor in the room I am working right now - I have a triple-monitor setup on my design system and regularly work with 5+ Kindle books open at the same time - merrily reading, comparing, highlighting, measuring images, copying snippets to my online note-taking apps all the time.
That's one L O N G monitor. What size is it?
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2 hours ago, ElectroSoldier said:
I know Maersk use a custom colour so I wouldnt be surprised if MSC do too which is maybe why nobody knows what it is and if they do they dont want to share it
Considering the amount of fading international containers experience, I think you could get away with starting with a yellow and adding white until it looked right.
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On 11/28/2020 at 8:46 AM, Mr Matt Foley said:
I landed one of those kits when they first came out. As far as aftermarket, I do have the Aires cockpit for it and intend to use it, but will have to modify the GIB's panel with an updated display. I also have a couple of new decal sheets for it. I hope to build a more current one...perhaps depicting the AESA radar. ALSO Re: Missing center pylon - It is on the "J" Tree in the F-15C kit. I looked and found it this morning and will use that for the Strike Eagle.
Speaking of aftermarket for this kit, it would be nice to see the correct pylon for the Sniper Pod, a Talon Hate pod, Legion Pod and of course a full kit upgrade to properly depict the F-15X.
New exhausts are pretty much required. The kit ones are terrible. KA Models makes a set that fits GWH F-15s. They're the best as far as I'm concerned.
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On 11/23/2020 at 4:08 PM, ElectroSoldier said:
I think RLM 27 Dark Yellow is to sand coloured.
That colour has a code.
Maybe its not RLM... Maybe RAL?
I would agree. I doubt that is an RLM color. I don't even think the RLM system is used anymore as it was created by Germany during WWII and has been superseded by the RAL system. It is also quite possible that MSC has their own custom color that they use, though large multi-national corporations are more likely to use a system like RAL which is available all over the world.
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On 11/11/2020 at 6:23 PM, ChernayaAkula said:
Closer to Tamiya X-15 or more like Gunze H 26? And were you going for a certain FS number?
😉
Tamiya X-15 is almost a perfect match. Unfortunately, my family line has never standardized its integument shades, so its usually a mix-my-own situation.
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Just fricking amazing work. I am in awe.
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8 hours ago, RichardL said:
Tell me about it 🙂
I have turned a very bright green in envy. Have always wanted to have my own racks of paints. Sigh...
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On 11/3/2020 at 8:23 AM, JackMan said:
Looks good on this Japanese F-2:
Except that the panels on the F-2s are actually a very light grey color.
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On 10/29/2020 at 8:00 PM, hawkwrench said:
I've noticed in various threads that occasionally you come across a long blue line and right beside that, it says "unread replies "
Why is that there and how can you read the replies if you want to???
Tim
It simply means that the replies below that line are ones you haven't viewed yet. The forum keeps track of when was the last time you viewed that thread. Any replies added after that date/time are considered new "unread replies".
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I never order without tracking. Its not a guarantee that the order will get to you, but it gives you some proof that the order never made it to you and it is then in the sellers court to make it right. Most sellers will either refund or, if possible, send you a new item.
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Here in the US, I get this kind of stuff at Model Paint Solutions. All sorts of goodies...
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On 10/3/2020 at 3:27 PM, jonwinn said:
Ok, I thinned the paint in the bottle with what made sense to me.
Testors thinner for Testors paint.
This. Did you actually thin the pain IN the bottle, i.e. add thinner INTO the bottle? If so, this could cause your problem. It is essentially the same as returning thinned paint back into the bottle.
If this is not what you did, then I have miss construed what you wrote and you can ignore this post.
F-14A Tomcat VF-1 with late ferris scheme from 1983
in Jet Modeling
Posted
Yep, those '83 schemes were beautiful.