Mstor

I know. I did make one of their A6M5's. It was a wonderful kit to build. Used to have the A6M2 kit in my stash. I did one of the older 1/32 kits, an F-4J and, years and years ago, the F-14A. Also had the F-4EJ and F-15J kits in my stash, but had to sell it all. Very sad, but just didn't have room after I moved back to WI. 1/32 is my preferred scale.

Amazing work. Can't wait to see what you do with the paint scheme.

Very cool Andrey. 1/48 version definitely on my short list of stuff to get.

From what I've seen of most KH kits with different versions, they only change the bare minimum of parts necessary. That said, since it is the nose area that is different it might effect the cockpit tub fit, but I doubt there would be any change in the wheel wells between the two.

Cha Ching $$$$$

Some fading, but the Have Glass paint seems to be holding up fairly well.

I don't do 1/32 anymore, but the F-86 is so beautiful it deserves the full 1/32 treatment that only Tamiya can do.

Shiny

Like mutated growths on their backs. Some alien parasite. Ew!

Looks nice. About $71.00 USD (7500JPY). A bit up there but not terrible.

Man, does this bring back memories. Getting a whole dollar bill from my parents, then a quick walk to the "corner store". It might have had a pharmacy, don't know, It did have a soda bar where they mixed the soda pop right there. You know, squirt the cola syrup into the glass, then add the seltzer. Now THAT was real soda. Nothing we have today tasted like that. They had the best root beer floats too. But I digress. I would hurry to the the back of the store where you went up a couple of steps and there on the left were a couple of shelves with nothing but model kits. Mostly Aurora. Most of us

Well, first I try to fix whatever is causing the misalignment to bring both panels into alignment. If that is not possible, I will usually try super glue first while holding the panels in alignment until the glue has set. If lucky, the super glue will hold them in alignment and I can just sand the area smooth. If not, well then its down to spreading Tamiya putty into the area and then doing a lot of sanding to make the area look OK. After that, there is usually surface details that need restoring, panel lines, etc. Not my favorite part of model building as I am not so good at it. Needless to s

I agree, damn fine job.

For gaps between perpendicular (or close to) surfaces like those between jet intakes and the fuselage or the fuselage and wings, I have been using AVES Apoxie Sculpt for years. Its a very fine grained two part epoxy putty that can be worked, smoothed and thinned with water. I roll thin sausages and use a tool to press it into the gaps. I don't worry about how it looks yet. Then I come back with water moistened Q-tips and smooth away any excess until I have a perfect smooth joint. Once dry (about 3 hours) it can be sanded and will feather out beautifully. It is rock hard and can be scribed usin

As they say, the proof is in the pudding. In other words, I will have to see for myself, but I have a good feeling about this one. It will very good to have a very accurate, highly detailed and will molded Su-33 kit. Now, like I said, if only you had done this a couple of years ago. Then I wouldn't have already bought the old version of the Kinetic kit already. At very least, I would have gotten the improved Kinetic kit, but if the AA one had been released, I would have certainly gone with it. Oh well, it is what it is. Now if I could only get myself restarted on finishing my Kinetic Su-3

Every kit I buy I open as soon as I get it in my hands. I want to see the parts, to enjoy the craftsmanship (hopefully) and, of course, make sure everything is in good shape. I don't make in depth inspections, but I look over everything to make sure there are no broken parts, especially clear parts. If it is an older kit, I want to check the decals. Then I put the cover back on and place it on the shelf with the 60 or 70 some kits in my stash (I haven't counted). If possible, I put any aftermarket in the kit box too. All this reminds me of when the LHS's were the only place I bough

Sorry if I misunderstood you. I took "Kinetic DID correct the tools to avoid the sink marks" to mean they made changes in the actual molds. My bad.

Hmmm, Gabor stated above that Kinetic had to redo the molds to eliminate the sink mark problems. I hope this doesn't become the same kind of problem here.

Thanks. Actually I've been thinking about the actual costs involved with the kits flybywire asked about. The Eduard boxing of the Su-27 is not cheap. Hard to find at less than $100. The Hobby Boss Su-27 goes for around $60 and up. When GWH released their Su-35, I paid $64 (preorder) from Hobbyeasy. Came out to be about $78 with shipping to the USA (small packet air mail with tracking). So, all in all, if the GWH's Su-27 single seater follows suit, it should be no more expensive than the Hobby Boss and light years ahead of both kits as far as detail and accuracy. The down side is having to

Thanks for that info. Damn good of Kinetic. I wish I had waited before starting my Kinetic Su-33 (old molds). By the time the new one came out, I was about 80% done and have no desire to do another.

I understand now, oh Master. I must first see it in my heart and then if I work hard and truly believe I will see that which cannot be seen. Your wisdom, as always, has enlightened my way.

Ahhh, I don't think... oh never mind.

I like the F-14 and F-22. And if it can actually be counted as vertical stabs, the YF-23 (they are kind of a combo deal).

Ahhh, oh well

There are an awful lot of sink marks on many of the parts. I would think they will need to correct that before release. Same problem the early Kinetic Su-33 kits had (which has now been corrected from what I hear).