chukw

It could simply be painted stripes, or perhaps tiny strips of decal. The latter is neater by far, but the former is faster.

I use my airbrush.

It's an absolutely marvelous kit- and the 1/32 version is coming!

Now, where did I leave that 1/35 Mohawk?

I think it needs more time- oils dry slowly.

It sounds like you're not letting the oils dry enough. I use tube oil paints, with Winsor & Newton Liquin mixed in. It's a drying agent that let's you handle the model after a day or too. You can also put your oils on a scrap of corrugated cardboard for a while, letting the linseed (?) oil; get absorbed by the cardboard. You'll see a dark, clear stain around the paint, and the linseed oil is what keeps the pigments workable for a longer time. A side benefit of Liquin is that it prevents clumping of the pigment when thinning the paint down for a wash, and results in a really smooth effect,

Ah- you've just IPMS-proofed your landing gear- excellent! 😉

Chain drilling.

Very nice Avenger- cheers!

Simply marvelous, Carlos- those flaps are quite convincing- cheers!

John and Steve- many thanks, my friends!

Thanks, C-Jazz! I did do some oil paint rendering with white, and after a flat coat added some Mig Pigments- Concrete and Rubble. After sealing with Mig Pigment fixer they eventuall got rubbed partially away, so I repeated the process, and it did build into a nice patina. Much appreciated, Carlos- Drawings of the Mohawk are fairly rare- and the nacellles always block the upper rear corner of the side canopies. The sloping joint didn't seek to be possible, either- eventually I figured it out. 😉 My right is still healing, but it's so much better, and my left eye picks up the load.

Yup- not worth it. Cheers, Geoff!

Shots fired! Why so salty? I see you have 4 posts here. I'm simply offering a different and, imho, better option. Surely there could be even better? I still keep a "travel bottle" of Future on my desk top, for glossing instrument dials and other quick, brushable options. Open minds beat closed doors.

Offhand, I've seen it be a nice gloss- or pebbly, blotchy- even dry lakebed cracks over certain paints.

Future/Pledge is rather unpredictable, but this stuff is gold.

Thanks, Saul- it's great to have binocular vision again- and I don't have to see my regular Optho for 3 months.

Thanks, Sharkmouth, cruiz and A-10 LOADER! If anyone still remembers, I'm back with this eternal build. Just had a great visit with my Optho and the old peepers are in pretty good shape. I've done this up special- for you!

Tricky stuff there- cheers!

Beautiful work, CJ- cheers! The seats look really nice, and the rescribing is

Windsor & Newton Liquin Original. Not only does it speed drying, it keeps the pigments from clumping, and makes a buttery smooth wash that, IMHO, beats the "magic Future" wash. A very interesting video about the various types of Liquin available.

Beautiful work, Dai Phan- cheers!

Thanks, Scoot! I've ordered a pair if "Ballast Bypass" 24" tubes that come pre-wired on one end. I've seen a diagram of the installation that looks pretty simple, yet effective.

It's my light table- my (rather poor) 5 year old effort to convert to LEDs has finally failed. I need a good diagram (and any sage advice) to do a decent re-wire for two 2-foot LED tubes. I tossed the ballast way back when, so it's a simple job- a switch, a power input and the four 2-pronged sockets. The problem is that I have only rudimentary electrical knowledge, and don't to disappear on a blue flash, never to be seen again. Thanks in advance- and cheers! Chuck PS- The tubes in the pic are the wrong type (they need a ballast) and will be returned.

WOW! That looks amazing- cheers!