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About nr1forme

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    Canopy Polisher

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  1. Seems like I’m a bit late to the party on this one. But as a long time Topcoat 501 user I tought I’d chip in. It really is an excellent product! The trick to getting nice gloss coats from the can with the TC is to really mist the stuff on at first. Repeated light passes over and over until the surface looks slightly wet and slightly pebbly. Now stop and do not panic at this stage, it’s all good. 😀 Let it sit in room temperature for 15-20 minutes. When you come back to it the clear will have levelled and a sheen is there. Then hit it again in the same manner. If using the TC as a base for decals 2-3 sessions doing the above will give you a nice, strong and smooth glossy base to work from. If you want a nice ”car-paint” gloss. Do the above and then lightly sand the surface back with some #2000 wetsanding paper. Then hit it again, this time more liberally. Take your time and with each pass of the can you will see the gloss coming. A word of caution here...be very careful not to apply too much, or it will run. The sanded clear provides less of a ”tooth” that will ”hold” the paint. Do a couple of wet coats. See what it looks like. More gloss? Sand and hit it again. If happy, wait for a couple of weeks for it to cure, then sand back and polish with compounds. 😎 Another tip is to heat the can quite alot before spraying. The TC likes higher temps. Fill the kitchen sink with very hot tap water and let the can sit for a couple of minutes. Give it a thorough shake before spraying. Also, spraying outdoors in the nordic winter is to be avoided. Fogging and wierd drying behaviour can occur. All the best! Emil
  2. I really like this. Super clean finish! Well done! 🙂
  3. Hi! I´m making my way back to the hobby after a long break and thought I´d share my latest completion with you. The 1/72 Special Hobby Do 27 in Bundesluftwaffe Norm 62 colours. I love the "day-glo" on these schemes as it provides such a nice contrast to the drab of the camouflage. Built straight out of the box and painted with Tamiya and Gunze paints except for the flourescent orange which is Vallejo Air. I also added belts from Tamiya tape cut in strips. Such a nice kit, thoroughly recommended. Just take care that the glass (front canopy and roof observation window) are thoroughly sealed before painting. Otherwise some paint-dust is bound to get inside and cloud the glass from the inside. Making it tricky to correct. Don´t ask me how I know. 🙂 🤦‍♂️ Kind regards! Emil
  4. Hiya mate! Not sure you remember me. we had some discussion on russian jets several years ago. I´ve only just returned to modelling after a loong break. And thought I´d say hi. 🙂 This is such a nice model. Is it still mostly brushpainted? I know you´re a master with the "hairy-stick". Love the detail work. Especially the visible engine. Kind regards! Emil from Sweden
  5. Looks great Dragan! Even if the kit gave you trouble, the results are wonderful! Cheers! Emil
  6. This is coming along really, really well Jan! I think this is a super good build from a guy that´s "no car modeller" You will find that the clear looks awesome after waxing. I´ll be here watching mate! Emil
  7. Hiya! Great job there Janman! I´ve built a quite a few cars recently and I think I´m starting to get the hang of it so if it is something you wanna know about painting or polishing or something else just shoot me a PM or reply in the thread. And I´ll keep looking at this modelling masterclass. A car I built not long ago.......Very much recommended If you wanna have another go! 1/24 Fujimi Ferrari F430 Spider. (Iknow It´s missing the rearview mirrors I´ve added them now) :D Cheers! Emil
  8. Thanks guys, most appreciated! Emil
  9. Hiya! Is there anyone on here who know where to find pictures of the Cockpit and any prominent features on the Italian twin seat starfighters as I´m soon gonna start a bird from the 4th stormo, 20th gruppo of the AMI. Especially ones showing the sidewall detail of the cockpit would be appreciated . My 1/48 th Hasegawa bird is pretty bare there. Thanks! Emil
  10. Hi! I´m not sure which Mr. color paint you´re using so I´ll provide altternative for both. Regular (Nitro) Cellulose thinners works just fine to thin Mr. Color lacquer paints and surfacer.It should not be hard to find in your hardware store. Here where I live you can buy it in litres and 1 litre is about 8 bucks US. If you´re using the Acrylic version you could go to the pharmacy and get some IPA (isopropyl alcohol) they should know what you want. IPA is the same stuff as Tamiya X-20A thinner but without the retarder. If you want to these paints can be thinned with the above cellulose thinners as well. Hope this helps! Cheers! Emil
  11. Hi! Wow guys thanks for the help! The reason that I asked was that I was gonna order some kits and supplies online and wanted to know if the A pit would fit because they had a Blackbox set at a good price. But after reading your replies I decided against buying it so I just bought a pair of Aires Aces II seats for the kit. (I know there is only one seat in the F16 but having a spare is never bad :blink:) They did´nt have the complete set for the Tamiya kit in stock so I figured I could just scratch some things for the sidepanels and use the seats as most other things seem fine..... Again, thanks for helping me out! :D Cheers! Emil
  12. Hi! Since there is alot of experts on the type on this forum I thought it´d be the best Pace to ask. Im looking at building the new Tamiya F16 C and was thinking about using the Blackbox cockpit set for the Hase F 16 the only problem is that the Blackbox set is for the A version and the Tamiya kit is a C, will it be OK to use the A cockpit in the C without being that wrong......or do they differ alot? Thanks! Emil
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