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About Propellerhead

  • Rank
    Canopy Polisher
  • Birthday 05/03/1965

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  • Location
    Oakland, CA
  • Interests
    A modeling omnivore with a strong bias towards aircraft, real space and Sci-Fi subjects.

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  1. And, finally, my ode to Stanley shots.... And rear to front... Thanks for tuning in!
  2. A details fly by... Please forgive the "Here's Uncle Ted in front of the house...here's Uncle Ted in front of the house, but you can see the side of the house" nature of this scroll violation. 😉
  3. Slightly elevated side view. Elevated front third. I took screen caps from the DVD and used my photo printer for the images. The United States Astronautics Agency badge is from the Paragrafix photo etch. The middle with that pesky communications unit. Elevated view of the rear third.
  4. How do you take pictures of this thing? Well you need the following... Enough room for it. A backdrop. Lights, many. Stuff to attach lights to. Focus stacking software for any hope of decent depth of field. What did I have to buy? More PVC pipe to expand my current lighting/backdrop rig. More pony clamps to hold the backdrop. More & bigger clamp lights and floodlight bulbs. A black polar fleece blanket from Amazon instead of velvet (cheap!) What did I do? Expanded my lighting & backdrop frame and moved it to a sofa bed (the one-piece base cushion is flat and firm - good enough). Ironed out the fleece as best as I could. Draped and smoothed it out on my lighting & backdrop frame. Set my lights, making sure they were secure and wouldn't swing down on the model (I wrap the pvc with reversed coarse sandpaper for more grip). The contraption in use:
  5. Very nice indeed! What's great about finally having an injection molded kit of this subject is that it allows you to spend your time on customizing and building it to suit your tastes. There's a ton of assembly, for sure, but you don't spend all your time getting it to fit and getting it to stay together. It really makes a statement when completed.
  6. The lights are on and it was pretty much complete at this stage. I still needed to add some "pieces of flair" to the base for the "studio" pictures to follow. I washed the panel lines and greebles with Model Master Gunship Gray (I think). I also selectively dry brushed with more Tamiya X-1 to knock things down and brighten things up where the wash got too heavy or I couldn't pull it out. I may have also misted some thinned white to tone things down on the cargo modules as well. Looks like I haven't added the photo etch grilles and "sooted" the engines yet...
  7. As things proceeded, there was always that urge to put it together, see how it looks and know that there's light at the end of the tunnel. Still some more work to do on the propulsion module with some masking still in place.
  8. Some masking removed for the first pass of knocking down the contrast and shading of various panels. I've already knocked down the contrast considerably on the command sphere end cap (on the right). There's still more masking in place on that to be removed later and worked over by more thin coats of Tamiya X-1.
  9. Continuing on with how this thing got built... More priming of the other bits. Masking for panels using the reverse method:
  10. If you can melt plastic, melt it. 😉 via Imgflip Meme Generator
  11. I didn't have any fit problems, but kept breaking the "bows" on the large antenna due to repeated handling. Exercise care with that. I also noticed during my build from the the spikes are missing on the small dishes, but let that detail go because of concerns at contest time. However, I used Paragrafix's photo etch for the windows so I guess my example is in between 2001 and 2010 "re-fits" of the Discovery.
  12. I also did my panels in reverse by priming first, masking, shooting on the white, selectively unmasking and knocking it all down with mist coats of white. I did that with my build of the Atomic City Aries IB and it worked out pretty well.
  13. Excellent work! It's crazy how much time it takes to figure out how to get the photo etch to play with the kit, chase down light leaks, etc. All part of the fun.
  14. Power would be internal and all parts would be serviceable: The rear of the command sphere is removable and stuck on with magnets from a Philips Sonicare toothbrush refill. They’re small and powerful. I epoxied the magnets to the command sphere rear “cap.” The magnets stick to small metal angles I had in my hardware stash. The angles were bent to mate up with the magnets and so I could locate them in the sphere and glue them down. I first tried to epoxy the angles to the sphere. Not good enough. So…I built styrene frames around the angles with square stock, added an ovoid “biscuit” to fit the screw slot to set the fore/aft position, and boxed it in with sheet stock. The 9-volt battery simply sticks down onto a magnet on the bottom half of the sphere. Hiding the switch… I cut off a section of thin wall PVC pipe, cut a disc out of sheet stock, drilled a hole and installed a push button switch (inverted). That was glued to the back of the sphere’s endcap. I fiddled around with the length of the spine rod to get enough play to actuate the switch. When pressed and latched, there’s no gap between the sphere’s end cap and the vertebrae part of the spine.
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