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Kurt H.

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About Kurt H.

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  1. Closely related to pipettes are tattoo ink cups, for mixing small amounts of paint, and portion cups for larger amounts of paint. Then for a disposable mixing surface the metal weighing boats are cheap on Amazon. Other things like sand paper, or 3M polishing pads, and respirator cartridges are very convenient to get on Amazon, but I am not sure if they are a bargain per se.
  2. I recall one of his brands offered an F-86A conversion, it was probably for use with the Hasegawa kit.
  3. Thank You Kursad! You are awesome. I'll be there for 1/48 and 1/72 for sure.
  4. Thanks! I try to keep sufficient stock of Universal F-16Cs handy ... the Hasegawa "Misawa Japan" and Tamiya Aggressor kits on hand to cover any contingency. Will either of those have everything I need? Probably the Tamiya.
  5. I really hope someone releases a decal sheet of this plane. You can have a cool red white and blue F-16 without using an antique kit to build the prototype or doing a major conversion. I will still get around to the prototype one of these days. But I have several F-16Cs in need of decals 😃👍 I hope i can get to an Airshow where this plane will perform.
  6. My Donor kits have arrived. I still need to go on an archeolgical dig to get my Monogram Sabre out of the deepest darkest parts of the stash. I will start a new thread to document the build. I will document the build with a film camera as well as digital pictures to give it the feel of a 80s-90s FSM Article.
  7. Ok I'll make the first sacrifice to try and make this happen. I have a Monogram F-86 and I'll track down the rest of the stuff the author used. I mean if it was possible in 1991 why not now? I was inspired to build an F-86H after seeing the one at the Strategic Air and Space museum in Nebraska. The one on display is painted in my favorite scheme, SEA camo. I'll cobble together decals, as I recall the markings were pretty simple.
  8. Those intakes look nice. Have you used them before? Do they require a lot of trimming of the kit to fit? I tried a similar project with a ton of your stuff but having never built a hasegawa hornet I messed up the flaps and ruined the kit. I am ready to try again.. and I will be watching.
  9. See .. it is easy! the Author also suggested using the intake trunk from the Matchbox FJ-4 and the stabs and some other parts from the Esci FJ-3 . I did start looking for the kits on eBay. It is tempting to try one of these crazy conversions.
  10. The F-86H in 1/48th is one of the few missing links we have left. I would really like to build one. But is it a subject worthy of the investment required to make a 1/48th scale kit? I have no idea. I do have the Special Hobby 1/72 kit I think I will try to get to this year. There is an article in an early 90s FSM where the author performed major surgery on a monogram F-86 to make an F-86H. I wonder if anyone ever tried it after reading that article.
  11. GT Resin did make the conversion you seek. I am not sure if he still offers it. I bought it years ago and never got around to it. I am glad you got what you need, and that someone has acquired the molds from AMS resin. They offered a lot of real problem solver resin parts.
  12. Ben Brown has you covered, he is an acknowledged authority on the Phantom. Depending on how accurate you want your model to be, ResKit has released a Navy phantom pylon set: https://reskit-models.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=5890 and https://reskit-models.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=6023 I am trying to finish my F-4S project after many setbacks and I ordered those pylons but have not yet received them.
  13. There is a school of thought that having traces of lacquer thinner in an airbrush could cause problems with MMP. The idea is that it can contaminate the paint. It seems plausible. Aside from MMP, My experience has been it is absolutely no problem using different paints in 1 airbrush. Mr. Color, MRP, Floquil, Tamiya (lacquer or acrylic), Model Master, Ammo, Model Air, no problem. I second the suggestion to use a separate airbrush dedicated to metallics, it is very difficult to get all the metallic particles out when cleaning, and you do not want random flakes in your
  14. The fun thing about badger airbrushes is there is enough parts interchangeability that you can make the airbrush you want. The SOTAR head assembly is available separately. So ... you can take any of the legend series airbrushes and install the sotar head. Just for fun one time, I created a single action sotar using a badger 200g and shorter handle available in the catalog: You can do the same thing with the 100 side feed, the badger 150 bottom feed, et cetera. The Sotar V has a larger cup. But that cup has a notch in the top. The c
  15. Old thread, and I replied four years ago. I have since tried several shades of Mr Color lacquer ... you might like the "Super Silver" . It has a similarly fine pigment as the Floquil stuff. There is one called "Shine Silver" but it has really large flakes so it is not suitable for the same tasks as old silver. The Tamiya LP "Flat Aluminum" is also a good choice.
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