Kurt H.

Paasche makes spraybooths similar in construction to Pace, and they are available from multiple sources so you might find them a little less than Pace. Pace is the best choice, and a buy once cry once purchase that you can hand down for multiple generations.

Coming from enamels it is not too much different, but you will find lacquers are more forgiving, and less likely to run . you can get much closer to the surface of the model, and they dry faster. If you get what appears to be silly string coming from your airbrush, then add more thinner. Lacquers are really easy to airbrush, and the only thing you will be wondering is, why you did not try it sooner!

You do not have to use a primer, but it is helpful. Are you airbrushing the paint?

I live in Northern Virginia - we do get the edge of hurricanes, and we do get snow, but no forest fires so far. I have often considered your same question, I have yet to determine where the goldilocks zone is in terms of weather. Maybe Northern Arizona? Parts of Tennessee ? My Dad moved to Phoenix as he was tired of snow, but it really gets hot there. Some parts of the country are free from extreme heat and forest fires, but you might get tornadoes or flooding. The natural beauty of Tennessee is interesting, but I do not know if there is a lot of winter weather there, or the risk of floodin

Thanks Gene. It will not be an easy initiative to stick to! And just for no good reason here is a bonus picture, I developed a roll of black and white film I shot while testing a newly acquired camera ... and this model was in the booth when I took a picture. (what a mess)

I have been poking at this one, and I am finally satisfied with all the areas I was working on , so it now has a a full coat of primer. I was going to try and prime all the external parts, but I realized I would have to mask the canopies, then clean up the gear doors, slats, stabs, et al .. so I decided to wait and not rush those parts. Like Thadeus said in the post above this one, coming back to a project is hard, and it is hard to remember where I was, and what I was thinking the last time I worked on this.

If you already have the Kinetic kit as stated above, then you should be set. I do see There is the Hasegawa F-16F Block 60 in current availability, which has the big mouth and small mouth parts, but it looks like it does might not have the right tail for such an early block. I guess it just depends on your budget and expectations for accuracy.

I guess they are focusing on automotive kits. They are issuing new tools of many older japanese cars, some of which were once only available as motorized kits with little detail. These kits are superb. In typical Hasegawa fashion, they offer the same kit with many, many variations.

And for the internal assembly, the needle tube, the back lever, spring, et cetera can be tricky to reassemble in the correct order. If I can not remember how it came apart, the parts diagram that usually comes with the airbrush is my reference to reassemble it. On many airbrushes, the back lever is not attached to the needle tube, and it can be very tricky to get it in the right place with out it falling out, and it is easy to put it in backwards.

Ok I Think I understand your question better. I just push it until it stops. Obviously, do this gently so you do not damage the needle. I put the needle in through the rear of the airbrush, so just push gently until it stops. Different needle/nozzle combinations will protrude different amounts. A fine line needle might stick out pretty far, but needle for more broad coverage they might just barely stick out. It is fully seated in the right place if you press the button for air, without pulling back (assuming a double action airbrush) and no fluid sprays.

When I reassemble an airbrush, I put the front end parts on first, to avoid this issue. The needle is the last part to add. (except maybe the handle)

Awesome! I did finish my CAS F-16 but I think I can do a better job now.

I saw this thread pop up I and I was pretty sure I replied to it ... I found my post, so what have we gotten in 5 years? 1/48 F-86H Not yet! 🙁 1/48 Blackbird Family - Revell gave us an SR-71 . So It would be cool if they also offered the SR-71B, A-12, and YF-12 1/144 C-133 - Thanks Roden! 1/48 A-26K Invader Thanks ICM! 1/48 Thin Wing RF-4B ... Not yet but ZM seems it have it on their roadmap. There was a new 1/48 B-17 from HKM ... and a special run of this kit from Eduard. However there were concerns about accuracy. We still have not seen a new

Thanks! I have made ony a little more progress. I finished adding the belly strap. but I lost one of the photoetched pieces from the Hasegawa kit some how, so I used two thirds of the Steel Beech vinyl strap instead. I also fixed a trouble area on the right side intake I have been chasing for years. Then I realized I lost the slime light decals that came with the Eduard PE .. but I found slimelight decals from MAW at sprue brothers, so that was another setback which I solved. But I did also misplace the Eduard PE instructions, but iw as able to down load the instructions. Just a lo

Whoa! an archive of Koku Fan. I only remember hearing about this magazine but never saw it in real life. Thanks for posting the link.