Kurt H.

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About Kurt H.

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  1. If you are in the US you can try megahobby (www.megahobby.com) . They carry Hataka paint. I have ordered a few times from megahobby and have been impressed with their service. I have yet to use Hataka paint, but they do have some hard to find colors.
  2. I have been following this thread and while I have a few in my stash that look too scary to build, I could not think of one that I actually built. Then, I finally recalled my experience with the Testors RF-4B. It required tons of putty, and the windows for the camera windows had no positive location, they just fit into the opening, and of course they fell into the nose, never to be retrieved. Those sorts of things can be forgiven, or at least tolerated on an old kit, but the part that was the real problem was the canopy was too narrow, it did not cover the cockpit, there was 1/16th of an inch on either side. I have been disappointed in other kits, but the Testors F-4 is the only one I actually finished which was just a bad kit.
  3. I am still messing with the seams on the bottom careful application of mr surfacer 500 and sanding has gotten me here As the Who once sang ... "It all looks fine .... to the naked eye, but it don't really happen that way at alll...." I thought I was ready for primer, but looking at the second of the three pictures above, it looks like another round of mr surfacer may help till next time...
  4. Ok, now that I am done with the decals I have been working on the landing gear and ... the worst part of many aircraft builds ... the doors Typical of many kits, there is no real positive location for the doors or any good place to glue ... so it is glue on the edge and hope for the best I will let it set over night this way to ensure the glue sets
  5. Thankfully there were not too many decals. I was able to finish decals in one session The kit decals were actually nice. They were thin, almost like microscale decals. I did have to substitute national insignias from the Furball "stars and bars" sheet, as the kit decals were very badly out of register. This was a lot better than expected for 40 year old kit decals. not a bit of trouble. Now, some monogram decals of the era are very thick, but these are different. I guess they had different decal vendors back in the good old days. any way, the decals do need several days to full dry and settle. In the mean time I will think about whether to give this one some kind of top coat. For NMF a top coat can really flatten the contrast between the different metallic shades.
  6. Here is my Enterprise see even more at: http://public.fotki.com/kurtains/models/completed-model-gallery/enterprise/?cmd=fs_slideshow
  7. I lied I painted the intakes after all decalling will resume when the paint dries
  8. I am still working on this!!! Life has been in the way the past few weeks, but I have some time now so I sanded the carefully applied putty .. carefully looks good so far, but a coat of primer will be the judge... This part will be more of a challenge on the top of the picture, the insert forward of the main gear bay is not flush, it is sunken in slightly. similar issue with the seam to the right, it is not flush so I must resist the urge to go crazy with the putty and obliterate all that nice detail. I assembled the nose which was a bit of a challenge. I think it was slightly warped. The wings are just dry fitted .. I figured it was an easy way to have both the top and bottom exposed to let the mr disolved putty dry. I am of two minds with this kit. It is well molded and fits well, but why did hasegawa have to give it such a severe case of acne? and to wrap up, I had the airbrush going so I painted some parts which needed to be black . the part to the right is the part to the rear of the cockpit, where the third part of the canopy goes till next time....
  9. Here are some more pictures
  10. I have also recently finished the Monogram F-5E with Iranian markings from HiDecal. The sidewinder decals are from Warbird Decals
  11. I have finished the Polar Lights 1/1000 Enterprise Refit for the Star Trek GB
  12. Thank you all for the compliments and encouragement I am pleased to announce, this model is complete I will take some better pictures later this week Impressions This is a well thought out kit. I got the feeling a lot of thought was put into the parts layout, and decal layout. The instructions gave lots of good advice on construction order, and finishing. Applying the decals was a challenge, but it really adds so much to the model. Polar Lights is to be commended on this kit. It was a bit of a challenge, as this build thread depicts, but I am pretty happy with the result. I hope you like the model, and thank you for sticking with me on this thread, and thank you for reading the whole thing, be it now in 2017, or sometime in the future. Hopefully it is a useful resource for anyone considering building this kit.
  13. Hey SonyKen Allow me to illustrate with the Testors F-4G as a stand-in Putting something rigid over the actuator will help protect it. I looked at the PE sets I have for the Academy phantoms and they do not have a actuator. I do remember the Old Eduard PE fret for the hasegawa J has the actuator. It is in 3 pieces. https://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/F-4J-S-1-48-1-2.html Hope it helps
  14. Two things I can think of. 1st, use a PE set which replaces the actuator barring that, taping something just large enough over the actuator, like a bottle cap or something to protect it while handling the model.
  15. It is not very common, but what about little antennas molded to the fuselage? with little blade antennas, it is hard to sand the seam on the fuselage. The Hasegawa raised panel line 1/48 F-4J has blade antennas molded on 1 fuselage half. (kit P1) . Even a revolutionary, ground breaking kit can have a WTH issue.