Kurt H.

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About Kurt H.

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  1. I guess for it to be correct you might say "near hit" ... But the more I explain common sayings and terminology to my colleagues for whom english is a second language, the more I am convinced english is a hopelessly broken language.
  2. I have tried them. They are very thin, and release from the backing very quickly. If you do end up using them, just dip them in the water and let them sit on on a paper towel until it releases from the backing paper. They can also fold over themselves, and if it is a long decal, it can get twisted and difficult, if not impossible to untangle. They do work if you are careful, and ready to take the extra precautions. They do have many desirable subjects which are not available elsewhere.
  3. The ZM has instrument panel decals. Therefore much easier. all kidding aside, looking at the ZM kit, it also provides a one piece canopy, and looking at the directions, the landing gear legs are added last. The academy kit has you put the main legs in when you assemble the wing, and the nose gear hook is installed early in the assembly sequence, and it has been mentioned by several people that it is easy to break. In my opinion those features make the ZM look easier. I have only started an academy -B and looked at my ZM in the box. I really want to build both but there are too many kits in progress on my work bench. Any particular plane / unit you want to build? To expand on the comment from Habu2 ... the easiest of all might even be the ESCI kit ... even lower parts count and scribed panel lines. the only problem is zero cockpit detail, and shallow intakes/exhaust.
  4. Before the Revell-Monogram Merger in the 80s, The original Revell (venice beach, california) released a 1/48th P-51D in the 70s. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/194348-revell-h31-p-51d-mustang (If you look at the timeline, they start to get mixed up but this would almost certainly be a different kit)
  5. The part that frustrates me is that they seem to sit on some variants I would like to buy, such as the RF-4C. It looks like some of the A-4 variants are also pretty hard to come by. I looked on ebay at different A-4 boxings when someone mentioned it in another thread, and I found that Hasegawa A-4 special boxings would have been an effective investment strategy. Now the approach I take to Hasegawa re-issues is the same as resin, and decal sheets, if you think you might want it someday, buy it now because you may have a very hard time finding it later. Is Hasegawa still relevant? I would have to say yes, while competitors have surpassed them with newer kits where they were once the undisputed leader, such as the 1/48th F-4 or 1/48th F-16, the hasegawa kits are still very good and may be available in variants the other companies have not done.
  6. Making progress ... This part, the stabilator, I got the rivets in one pass The wings finally look good. They are not glued on yet, but they fit so well you could leave them unglued I also have the intakes on and the bottom seam is finally acceptable till next time...
  7. Nice work, I really like the overall presentation with the base.
  8. The best information I have seen on this topic is here: http://www.testors.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/Testors/ebook/MRH-Acrylic-painting-guide-post-Floquil-Portrait.ashx The only other thing I can add is, Using windex does get your airbrush nice and clean, but the ammonia in windex can attack the brass parts in your airbrush, so I have stopped using it for cleaning my airbrush. When I airbrush tamiya I use hardware store lacquer thinner for clean up.
  9. Mine is on the way too Thanks for making this sheet, it is my favorite Bicentennial bird.
  10. Everyone has their preference for putty. If I was starting from scratch, I would start with Tamiya Putty (Basic Type) . It feathers nicely and does not seem to shrink. Over the years there have been many decal sheets for the P-51D. A good place to start researching is on scalemates.com ... you can choose the subject you are interested in, and find what kind of related products are available. Or look in reference books or google images to find a real mustang you like and then search for decals for that unit. You can look on ebay for old decals, or model shows. For new decal sheets many sell directly, or you can go to Sprue Brothers , they have a good selection of all manner of modeling products. As for spray cans, I have not used them to paint a model for a long time, but I have heard good things about Tamiya spray cans, maybe others can offer more guidance. I do brush paint and airbrush Testors Model Master and Tamiya acrylics, I like them both. Paint is really a matter of preference you just need to see what you like. I hope it helps, This kind of just scratches the surface. Hang around the forums, facebook groups, etc and you can pick up a lot of great info. When you get your P-51 please share your progress.
  11. Ahh Ok, so that makes it the old Monogram P-51D . I built one of those recently, the things to watch out for are the fit of the lower cowl to the fuselage, and the wing to fuselage joint on the top, there was a pretty big gap. Aside from those issues, that is a fun kit to build.
  12. Welcome back to the hobby and welcome to the forum. Which Revell P-51D did you score? What scale? There are at least two different kits which have been sold in a revell box, so If we can identify the kit, we can give you some feed back on what to look put for. What paint did you use back when you built models before? Do you have an airbrush? You will find some of the paint brands you remember from the 80s are still around, like Tamiya, and testors, and Humbrol. However in the past few years we lost Pactra, PollyScale, Floquil and probably a few others I can not think of at the moment. But there are many other new paint brands emerging. The good news is that the P-51D is a pretty popular subject so there are lots of decal options out there. It is really up to you what scheme you want to do.
  13. I have spent another week messing with these rivets hopefully this will be the end of it and the elevators In the mean time I paint the intake parts and I am working the seams around this part ... the radio gear cover And you can also see the nose has been glued on as well. I am just trying to be gentle and not obliterate detail like I did with my monogram f-104
  14. That is some good masking and smooth paint application. Is the canopy masked? Looks like you cut it really close with the red paint!
  15. Nice work on that sabre. I have no idea where you are going with the paint job, but it it looks good so far.