admiralcag

I agree with Spruemeister. I abandoned MM Aluminum a long time ago. I like Tamiya Aluminum, but my go-to is Alclad. Vern

Iwata gravity.

I run it about 12 PSI. No thinning required. Vern

I know Roll Models picked up Waldron. I don't know if they are still producing the products, though. You may want to check there. Vern

http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm This was designed by one of our club members. I have one and it works really well. Vern

Click "insert other media" and select "insert image from URL." You can copy the URL for your image from there. It means you have to have them hosted someplace else, but it means you can add images bigger than a postage stamp. Vern

I ditched Photobucket for Flickr. I am going to experiment with Google Photos. Vern.

Cool! Congratulations, Jay! Vern

Back from WonderFest. It was great! Got to see lots of friends and great models. My Vulcan Shuttle won a Merit - my first award at WF! Back to the topic at hand. Hangar pod glued to the model. Time to mask the domes. Ugh. It makes a mess. Ready for installation and the coat of white paint. White paint to help light reflection. Airbrushed on the domes. Assembly. Light blocking test. Color coat. I had thought to streak it on to

I decided that I shouldn't push it for WonderFest. It is coming together too nicely to rush. More pictures when I get back!

Securing the brass mounting tube: The fit was pretty sloppy and the tube was just butting up against the top of the hangar module. Typically, I like telescoping brass tube to mount my sci fi models, so that's what I did. I used some Evergreen 1/4" square tube to contain the tube. Epoxied into place. Turned out, it was a little too high. So, I pulled out the Dremel and ground it down. Puttied, sanded, and glued into place. The hub: I primed the previous day's work. After some sa

The fit of the arms to the hub is pretty bad. One was cocked upwards. So I cut some 0.010" shims to fill the gap. And installed. Putty and sanding. Not perfect, but getting there. I did do some extra work, but didn't take pictures. More sanding, Mr. Surfacer 500, and putty. I need to prime again, but I think it is ready. Today's task -- securing the brass mounting tube.

Finally satisfied with the seam filling on the top disk and arms. I did a coat of Mr Surfacer 1500 Black Finishing as a final primer coat and as a light block. Looked like kryptonite. Another coat of Mr Surfacer and it looked much better. Time to put it together! This vintage 1975 AMT tooling sucks! Soldering the wires. I chose too small of a heat shrink tube and it didn't work right. The fading LEDs connected. Testing the white LEDs. They didn't all work the first time.

That's what I am hoping.

I have finally gotten a chance to do some more work. The end of the school year is always busy, but this year included moving my daughter and her boyfriend. Ugh. The gap at the bottom of the hangar doors is pretty bad. I shimmed it with some strip and... The upper pod and arms have been an exercise in "fill -- sand -- repeat." Almost done and, honestly, it is some of the best filling I've ever done. I was doing some sanding earlier this week while working from home. One of my cats assumed this was the perfect op

I grabbed your list for reference. Working on rescribing all the lines. Here's my post on it. Haven't worked on it in a while because I am just busy.

I am using a Monogram F-15C, because that is what I had in my stash, along with a Revell F-15E for details. I am a broke model builder.

Nice!

Cool posts, Ol Crew Dog! Thanks! Vern

Thanks for sharing the link! Vern

Very nice!

Woo hoo!

I am working on a build like this also. Someone told me the best CFTs to use are on the Hasegawa Strike Eagle. Those are good because they have the AIM-7 sway braces. Vern

Good job!

Very nice!