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Everything posted by ALF18

  1. I've been following that news closely. Difficult situation. In a few weeks, you'll have a much-reduced chance of major complications, if not full immunity. Fingers crossed for you. ALF
  2. If ever SWMBO squawks about such things, I remind her that while I'm foiling I'm not doing (pick one) any of the following: (fill in any activities she DEFINITELY won't approve of here). 🙂 Thanks!
  3. Ah, I remember that cup win very well! My wife went into labour on the Friday afternoon (11 June 93) they held the Cup parade "on the usual route" in Montreal. I had briefed a CF-18 mission, but we had a back-up pilot in the brief in case - you guessed it - she called Ops and I had to bow out to be with her. We watched the parade together on TV as she grimaced with each contraction, and our son was born in the middle of the night. I constantly remind him that the Habs have not won a Cup since he was born. Sorry. It's our fault. So, I stop checking on your thread for a couple
  4. Finally! Glad to hear it, Shawn. You're in a tough work environment, and it's about time you got your first dose. Here in Quebec, they're focusing on Montreal (about 85% of the cases are there). As of today, appointments for 65+ can be made in Montreal, but here in Quebec City it's still 70+. Hoping to get it some time in April or early May. Fingers crossed. ALF
  5. I encourage you also to look at the link that Neo shared. That's a very clear explanation that I also used as guidance. For sure curves like a nose or an external fuel tank are hard to do. I didn't talk about how I did the decals. I've tried various approaches with foil finishes over the years, including some fancy spray-on clear coats. What I have settled on is to do like I do for many regular finishes. I apply what used to be Future floor wax (it's now called Pledge in North America - not sure what brand name it goes by in Kiwi Land) before and after decalling. The foil finish is alread
  6. Thanks Mike! I'm hoping that I will be able to properly honour the legacy of AX 365 with my next one. One day you'll be able to see this and that one in person. Thanks!
  7. Pylon glued in place. I used CA glue for any part that had foil on its mating surface. Next, the external tanks. I used the Bare Metal Foil product for these, because it's thinner and easier to shape around a curved nose. I made small incisions at the lower front (this is a top-down look). The idea was to have the joins under the tank where they are less visible. Curved nose section first, then the easy cylindrical centre part. I alternated painting parts of the details inside the speed brake wells and on the seat. While the acrylic paint dried, I worked on
  8. I've had my head down, working hard on this project. The last weekend in February, we went to Montreal to stay in a hotel overnight. No option to stay in one of our kids' apartments due to COVID. Big day on the Saturday - my daughter tried on multiple wedding dresses, and chose one she loves. My wife was privileged to be able to sit in the store with her, our son's girlfriend, and my daughter's best friend. Masks all around, but a great event anyway. It allowed me to think about what all men think about... what's the next step in working on the model? Mega progress being made on the
  9. Thanks, Mike. Trying to build up motivation to redo that one panel, or at least try Neo's tip. That's a great article. That guy certainly knows what he's doing. Makes me feel like the amateur I am! 🙂 ALF
  10. Now for the challenge of the nose section. I cut a piece a bit too large, and roughly tacked it in place with my fingers and fingernails. My main goal at first is to expose the panel lines, so I know where to burnish it down, and what to trim off. If you look carefully here, you'll see I've cut some small slits in the foil that projects beyond the intake lip. One is at the top left (by the panel line for the black area on top of the nose), and the other slit is to the right of it. The idea is that these slits allow me to bend the foil down into the intake. Any splay of the fo
  11. Thanks, Geoff. I am not an expert, but I've learned a few things from previous mistakes. I'm starting with this big Sabre, because I want to apply further lessons learned to the next big Sabre, which will be a tribute to a fallen relative of a good friend: AX_365. ALF
  12. Chopped the end bits, and started to make it fit the curves. Some interim burnishing with a toothpick, but not fully down. Mostly just to get is trimmed properly. I used some of the waste foil from the end to cover the missing bit at the wingtip portion of the slat. Burnishing and trimming along panel lines. The key here is a VERY sharp knife, very little pressure. Very small tweezers to remove excess foil. I used some of the trimmed-off parts to fix up the wingtip. Wingtip trimmed, now it needs so
  13. It is too late, Tony. Only you and I will know. 🙂 I'll have a look at that. I does seem a bit blocky. ALF
  14. Here you can see the sheet tacked onto the lower wing surface. Very lightly tacked in place. Rubbed slightly with my finger to hold it firmly. A little cut to allow it to fold up onto the leading edge slat. A chop at the outboard portion. The complex fold around the wingtip is always problematic. I made a mistake here. Should have chopped it to allow full coverage out the slat to the wingtip; there will be a little triangular gap here. Some pinching along the leading edge, using my fingers, from the centr
  15. Thanks for the ref pic. Is it fair to say that the leading edge was 'hard' (i.e. no slats)? I will continue with the grey cockpit (too late for this one), but thanks for the information. ALF
  16. Here are the supplies I used. Adhesive from the Bare Metal Foil company in the USA. Easy to order, fast shipping. Great service. Neo, I can't remember if I've used the adhesive from Omer Deserres (art supply chain in Quebec) before, but this stuff is superb. Perhaps a bit more expensive, especially when considering the shipping costs. I used Dollarama aluminum foil. It has a very shiny and a less shiny side to it. One of the keys to a good foil finish is to ensure the glue is brushed on very thinly, and without any apparent grain or lumps. Patience was required. I used a
  17. This is the little piece that goes between the intake collar and the nose gear well. It has two little lights in it. I glued in the transparent parts, then used this silver ink pen to make the back (insides) of the lights look like reflective aluminum. Easy. I like the effect. I then hand-painted some parts, prior to foiling. The nose cone is flat black. In the picture below, it's ready for foiling where I will cut it around the outline. The overpainted parts will be invisible below the foil. In the picture above, you can see I've painted some Tamiya Flat Al
  18. The wing/fuselage mating went well. I let it dry with the wings propped up against the box and the table, to exert a tiny bit of pressure to the upper wing and fuselage join, hoping to minimize those gaps. They're fairly small, anyway. Tail section assembled as well. Did I mention I LOVE the lines of these aircraft? If you look VERY carefully, you'll see the rear portions of both wingtips were slightly malformed (curled up). I bent them back into place, and clamped them tightly when I glued the wings together. They seem to be fairly gapless. Foil is very unforgiving of surface blemishes.
  19. More building. I've glued the front and rear trunks, plus cockpit and weight, into a fuselage half. I left out the centre section of the engine to reduce the weight and balance problems. At first, I worked hard on aligning the left-side gun bay (on the outside of the left cockpit wall assembly) with the hole in the fuselage. I was originally going to pose the gun bay on the left side open, as if it were being reloaded. Later I changed my mind, and buttoned up the bay, because I love the dragon decal that goes on the left side of the scheme I chose.
  20. Hi Neo and Mr Happy Thanks for the tips. The eBay listing says 'may not ship to Canada', so I'll look further into it. For now, I use toothpicks. Too bad that the Dollarama ones are very pointy. I'll check grocery stores and see if they have more of the ones with the rounded ends - they're not as likely to shred the foil. ALF
  21. Glad you're along for the ride, AFM! Keep me honest, Mike... 🙂 Thanks for the info. It's curious that in the kit directions they say that the two Korean War variants should have those holes opened up well inboard of the tanks. I will NOT be adding missiles and rails, because I want this to be more like a Wartime Sabre. ALF
  22. I slowly put together the wings. Flaps are positionable, but apparently Sabres were almost always parked with flaps up. The undersurface needed some holes punched for external stores, so I carefully selected the ones that the instructions said were appropriate for the Korean War versions. After the dry-fitting, I applied my favourite Tamiya Extra-Thin glue, and clamped it all up. More soon. ALF
  23. Of course, Sabres are notoriously tail-sitters. As is often the case with Sabre kits, the kit itself came with a fantastic tray to hold weight in place. Unlike the Kinetic kit in this scale, though, no weight was provided, so I went looking for something heavy. The instuctions said 40g, but I have no way of weighing that, so I went for a little overkill and some dry-fitting assurance. I had a lead weight that I chopped up with some big pincer plyers. I've put the larger pieces of lead next to the gun bay, to show the size. The part that is almost chopped off is what I used.
  24. Turns out I had also acquired two resin seats for big Sabres over the years. This is one of them. The biggest problem is the huge casting block, of course. The resin detail is really nice, though. So, I dug out an old Exacto saw blade I had lying around, and started to create some dust. This worked well. I managed to saw off the block without damaging the detail on the seat. The main instrument panel comes with two options. One was to paint a panel, while the other was to use two transparent pieces with a decal sandwiched between them. I ch
  25. I leaned heavily on my good buddy AX_365 for advice both on the kits and on Sabre information generally. He knows and loves these aircraft, and may have built 'a few' himself... The first advice he gave me had to do with the fuselages. He said that unless I planned to display the kit with the tail removed and engine out, it was best to glue the front and rear portions of fuselage together before gluing the sides (in other words, I'd end up with a more traditional left/right arrangement, instead of the kit directions' order of assembling the front halves, then the rear, then attaching fro
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