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ALF18

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Everything posted by ALF18

  1. ALF18
    I painted everything XF-71, Tamiya's interior green. What's nice is I can find the Tamiya acrylic paints at my local hobby shop, and the call-outs are for Tamiya acrylics. Easy peasy. I paid close attention to the versions of Spit. JEJ's is version A, while the others are B or C. Some interior parts vary from version to version. Note how the Quinta MIP has a '33' on it - that's where their decal number 33 goes. Easy to follow.
  2. ALF18
    The Quinta decals are gorgeous. First, I bent the PE and painted the compass. There's a little kit decal that adds a nice touch. Tiny pieces - hard to manipulate.
  3. ALF18
    I was a bit surprised at the Quinta instructions. I've built other models with them (like a 1-48 MiG 21), and their instructions were a little more detailed. I quickly figured it out though. In the first image, you can see the instructions. The kit part numbers are in black, with the format A00. One thing I had to figure out was that the two Tamiya kits have different part numbers for some cockpit parts. No biggie - it's easy to figure out which is which. The blue/green part numbers are the Quinta decals. For example, you see that the backing kit part for the main panel is called JJ5. In
  4. ALF18
    Howdy folks. I'm building this for a friend, who specializes in display models. He's great at painting big airliner stuff on stands, but he preferred to ask me to build this one for him. I searched everywhere for 3D interior decals for the Mk IXc, but they were all out of stock - both Quinta and Red Fox. After some research, though, I found that the cockpits of the Mk IXc and Mk XVI are almost identical. So, I bought two Quinta interior decals for Mk XVI. Why two? Because I have the Mk XVI kit to build. I plan to make it right after this one. I plan to do the cover version. Johnie J
  5. ALF18
    Thanks folks!
  6. ALF18
    A quick floor polish application, then decals. Calling this one finished. Beside it on the shelf, you can see the other 1/32 contemporary jets I've built - the two-seat Italeri, a Belcher Bits conversion to F-5A from F-5E, and an Academy CF-18B. ALF
  7. ALF18
    It's not perfect, but I am relearning techniques to foil properly. I will be focusing on proper technique for some later builds, like some CF-104s from that great 1/32 Italeri kit. I painted the nav and anticollision lights with permanent Lumocolor markers.
  8. ALF18
    All right! Superbowl is over. I've also gotten out from under a pile of work, so had a bit of time for modelling. Yes, I'm supposed to be retired - but my old Aviation College made me an offer I can't refuse to teach online from home. These days, easy money when working from home is nothing to sneeze at, especially when models are begging to be bought... 🙂 It has taken me a long time to foil this one, because it's huge (that's what she said). I did most of it with the shiny side of the foil up, because I love shiny jets. On the bottom, the painted patches get nicely framed
  9. ALF18
    I absolutely love those decals. I have a bunch (Quinta, other brands) that I will use for kits that matter to me (F-104, CF-18, etc). You've done a great job on these ones. ALF
  10. ALF18
    I'll be watching this as well. I've built a couple Italeri in 1/32 and love the kit. By 'deleted' the original panels, I see you've removed the raised detail in preparation for the Quinta Studios decals. How did you do it? Sandpaper? Scraping with a knife? ALF
  11. ALF18
    Cool. I sometimes go to Ottawa, so I might just use the pick-up option there. Thanks Dave. ALF
  12. ALF18
    Thanks for the tip. Good price on the adhesive... but the shipping is $20+ CDN. The place I ordered from has a flat rate of $10 for shipping, and free shipping for orders over $60 CDN. I will browse around more on greathobbies.com to see if I can find cheaper shipping for future orders. Do you pick up orders at the store? They're close to where you live. ALF
  13. ALF18
    Amazing progress for parallel kit builds. I'm not so quick to say you've made a mistake with the Sabre instrument panel colours. Some are grey with black instruments, while some are overall black with black instruments and silvery highlights... The important element is that it looks plausible. You're building for yourself, not a museum. ALF
  14. ALF18
    A side note on the glues used. I started using Bare Metal Foil adhesive that I ordered from their online store. It works beautifully. I then tried a bottle of gilding paste from an art store. It went on nicely, but was not nearly tacky enough after it dried. In fact, it barely held to the plastic, and I quickly painted over it with the Bare Metal Foil glue. I don't know if the problem with the gilding paste was its age, or if it's just not up to the task. I have had this bottle for quite some time, so I had to chop off the lid because I couldn't get it to open. Child proof? ALF-proof! 🙂
  15. ALF18
    I used some of the discoloured (boiled in egg shells) foil to do the little vertical separations on the fuselage. Then I alternated some glossy and not-so-glossy foil for the large wing areas. I wrapped glossy foil around the leading edges of the delta wing, so there would be no seam along the sharp leading edge. As AD-4N so rightly pointed out, this is not an easy job. It will take me quite a while to do this right. ALF
  16. ALF18
    Not being too concerned about exact colour-matching, I used a greenish grey for the rear patch, and a flat yellow for the forward one. I had to do a couple coats for the forward one. This can be a tail-sitter, so I loaded up the nose cone with plasticene before gluing it on. ALF
  17. ALF18
    I'm doing an Israeli AF version from the Six Day War in June 1967. I studied the drawings to see what needed to be painted first, before foiling. I will paint the two rectangles on the underside, and the nose cone. I wondered about the vertical tail. After further study, I found that there were decals for some of the black and off-white areas near its leading edge. Nice. Those are quite hard to get perfect with paint. ALF
  18. ALF18
    Now it was time for some crack filling. I use putty in a tube, and nail polish remover. I'm not much for filling, sanding, and rescribing. During the build process, I took care to have the worst joins on the bottom of the aircraft. Nobody is allowed to look at the bottom of my models, unless she's wearing a low-cut blouse... oops! I've been told that it's no ok to make those jokes any more. So, nobody, period, can look at the mess underneath mine. I put in the putty, then wet a Q-Tip with nail polish remover to smooth it in and wipe off the excess putty. Q-Tips are cheap, so I use several
  19. ALF18
    LOL! Either a He-Man or a fool... 🙂 Whichever, I hope this turns out ok. One thing about me - I don't care much if my models aren't perfect. I just like having them. ALF
  20. ALF18
    That's normal. I've made some models with foil that have really disappointed me - it's something that I've also struggled with. This particular kit is my way of getting back the skills that have atrophied over the last couple years. After this one, I want to attack a 1/32 T-33, and a couple 1/32 CF-104s. I care a lot more about those types, so I want to make sure I know what I'm doing before I start them. ALF
  21. ALF18
    Now I take a toothpick and burnish. I use the large round end for this. Toothpicks are good, because they are soft and won't tear the foil easily. As I burnish things down, the panel lines start to show a tiny bit. More pressure, especially along the panel lines, and they stand out nicely. I carefully trim away the excess around the part, then finish burnishing. Here is the finished elevon, beside one that it still normal plastic. I've done these separately, because they are glued on and might snap off if I apply too much pressure while burnishing. I also want to do the actuator cove
  22. ALF18
    Here I've wrapped around. I like to put any overlap on the bottom of the model if possible, like around wings and horizontal stabilizer surfaces. If there's a natural panel line, I'l sometimes make the seam there (like halfway along this part). Since this is going on the bottom, I didn't care this time. I've taken a toothpick and burnished the part down along the edge, including the little notches at right. The rivets are starting to show a bit under the foil. More slits, and folded over the sides toward the bottom of the elevon (which is the top in this picture, since the elevon is lying
  23. ALF18
    I'll start with a small bit. This is an elevon. Notice how the glue stops before the edge of the metal foil. This is so I don't gum up the surface of my cutting board with overflow glue. Foil is cheap, but glue is a bit more costly, so I'd rather waste some foil than have excess glue to clean up and mar my working surface. I put the part onto the foil to know the size. Then, I cut enough to wrap around the sides and the top of the part. I trimmed off the glue-less foil, then cut slits so I could wrap around the part easily.
  24. ALF18
    Here I've allowed the glue to dry on the large sheet on the right. Closeup view. The glue becomes transparent, and is now ready to be burnished onto the model. The texture you see here is due to the texture on my cutting board. It should disappear after burnishing onto the smooth model surface. ALF
  25. ALF18
    Here's the result. Various shades of heat stress on the metal. The longer it boils with the eggshells, the darker it gets. I also like that's it's uneven, just like real metal.
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