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Fishwelding

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  1. Binge-watching 1980s NATO exercise videos on YouTube. I've seen a few instances where umpires appear to have declared that someone was "dead," as a result of combat, although I'm not quite sure that's what I'm seeing. How did this work? How were troops or AFVs casualty-ed in faux battles? And - here's the diorama inquiry - did anyone bother arguing with troops serving as umpires?
  2. For tracks, consider a few things: If you are new to armor, you may want to build a few kits with rubber-band tracks. This allows you to work through the whole process a bit more efficiently, instead of getting bogged down in construction of the running gear. How visible are the tracks? For some AFVs the answer is a lot, if there are no sideskirts, incomplete fenders, or track sag. But AFVs from the late Cold War on often feature sideskirts and obscuring fenders. Especially in dioramas, heavy mud/dust application, or depending on my level of investment overall, I might rely o
  3. I agree with @thegoodsgt. Day-to-day it doesn't feel like it's getting easier, but just keep doing it. After I scribed an entire Revell-Monogram F/A-18C I dreaded the thought of replacing a whole set of lines. But having gotten a lot better at it on smaller jobs (restoring lost lines, some scratchbuilding) I'm about ready to tackle a whole airframe again.
  4. I ran an experiment using the Micromesh sanding pads, and some Novus #2 and #3 polish with a motor tool. The results aren't bad. I deliberately scuffed a piece of clear styrene (an old Monogram SB2C canopy) with some 600 grit sandpaper. Next, I used the entire Micromesh set, followed by the liquid polishes. Although the canopy polished to a shine and was reasonably clear, it still had some noticeable scratching. I also tried some Tamiya polishes, and they seemed to work about the same as the Novus stuff. I suspected that I should have started with some of the fine
  5. I'm interested in improving my processes for polishing clear parts. For example, after having scraped and sanded a mold seam from a jet canopy, I'd like to polish it back to a clear, high shine. I'm seeing folks do this with motor tools, and I have one of Dremel's cordless units that goes to really low RPMs. But I should probably do this with some sort of polishing cream or compound. Anyone have favorites?
  6. I'm considering building an early, Cold War AH-64 using Monogram's old 1/48th scale kit. But this time around I'd rather not try to clean up Monogram's doughy, sink-marked AGM-114 Hellfire missiles. After some quick investigation, I think this Eduard kit can successfully represent early AGM-114s. Although it looks like I might have to use the Monogram rack and rails. Thoughts? Warnings? Advice?
  7. I have it. I imagine I could cut up bigger cutting mats to replace the little mat on the Chopper II, but I've never had occasion to replace the original. Yes, it uses stock single-edge razor blades. With a fresh blade I've cut up to 1/4" or maybe bigger pieces, but I don't get perfectly perpendicular cuts. I've gotten bigger materials closer to square with a few swipes of file. It saves time over using a knife or razor saw. Where it's most useful to me is quickly cutting larger styrene rods or strips for 1/35 diorama projects, which don't require super-precision. Also handy
  8. After having a bottle go bad I, too, store mine away from a direct light source. I've had it/used it for over a year now, and so far so good. I don't like products that require special care, but I do like MM's poly as it seems to add strength to finishes.
  9. That GI Joe's "Pit" was located under the U.S. Army Chaplain's Assistant School was ironic and fun. That Fort Wadsworth was a real installation on Staten Island is genuinely surprising. I would have guessed that in the true spirit of the United States Army, GI Joe would be exiled to stationed somewhere south, west, very remote, too humid or too dry, with plenty of poisonous snakes or fire ants. Instead, the Joes pay $5.70 for a cup of coffee.
  10. Reviving this project, although I don't have much spare time, so this will (still) be slow. I built up a bunch of sub-assemblies, and began painting. Most parts are primed, but I'm finishing the cockpit parts before assembling the nose. I wanted some heavy armament of some kind, and wasn't satisfied with various ordinance options from kits. So I cobbled up a set of simple missiles of some sort. They consist of Evergreen styrene shapes with some rocket pod aerodynamic caps from a 1/48 Hasegawa weapons set. I'm building the kit wheels up, with a pair of pilots
  11. Most of us aren't practicing handwashing, social distancing, and other tactics directed by medical practitioners to save ourselves from dying. We're doing it because: We have friends and family in higher-risk categories, and we don't want to lose them, or see them suffer a life-changing medical emergency. We don't wish to see our healthcare systems overwhelmed with cases, such that people can't undergo proper treatment for COVID 19 or other, unrelated medical problems. This isn't hysteria because if we aren't personally at risk of dying from COVID 19 complications, for
  12. My work was on PRCo, Pittsburgh's version. But when it came time to bribe the Pennsylvania Public Service Commission, Philadelphia's crew outdid everyone else. Truly an A-level act.
  13. "More base for ya face," as Mike D comments.
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