mickevh

Thanks. Sounds like I can add them in. I made a mistake decribing the outer of the two, it's actually perpendicular to the leading edge, but looks like it should extend all the way around. (Approx. 1/4 the distance from inbound end of the outer L/E flap.) The kit was a 1/32 F-4E "MiG Killer" I bought about 7 years ago. Cheers, Mick

I'm not sure if this is the right forum for this but here goes... I've got a Monogram F-4, I've joined the upper and lower wings and noticed that there are a couple of panel lines that wrap around the leading edge (roughly parallel to the fuselage) that don't meet up with anything. For example, there's one on the top surface near the wing root that that simply stops at the join - there's nothing on the lower surface for it too meet up with. Similarly, (much) further out there's a line on the bottom the meets nothing on the top. Thus far I haven't found a photo which shows me which is correct

Thanks for all the replies. I got myself a can of Tamiya to try and also found a tinlet from Humbrol which they call "Enamel Primer," though I don't know if this is any differnt to their "normal" enamel paints, (certainly smells a bit different.) The latter claims it can be airbrushed after thinning with enamel thinner and I guess it could be used in "spots" with a brush. Has a long drying time though (6 hours.)

Yep, that's exactly how I started. It looks identlcal (sold in the UK under the name "SimAir" I think) but for 10 bucks, what the hell. At risk of repeating what is probably well trodden ground in these forums, (and without wanting to put you off!) with this style AB and an aerosol I found, A) I had no idea what air pressure I was using - people in here agonise over such things - B/ air pressure changes all the time (a folly of canned air) which is a big distraction C) you have to thin/use enough paint to cover the bottom of the glass bottle so I ended up wasting loads D) Droplet size was la

I started out with one of those "beginner" airbrush kits that contain a really basic syphon/bottom feeding external mix brush, c/s aerosol and (ahem) "regulator." All it did for me was prove that spraying is a fun way to paint, and did a better job than brushing, but it drove me nuts. Paint didn't pick up well, air pressure was up and down all the time and aerosols cost a fortune, always run out of puff (sic) and the wrong moment and or course you alway have to ensure you have enough left for cleaning. Yuk. I've subsequently bought an internal mix gravity feed dual action brush & a smal

I was just my local electonics store browsing through the resistors, (sad I know,) and thought they might make a good approximation for anywhere there's a bottle with a hose in it such as O2 bottle on ejector seats. (Not sure how they'd paint though, for a couple of pennies it could be worth a try.)

Just to clariy - I've not tried this myself, so I'd recommend you test it on something you don't care about rather than risk anything you do. Mick

Cleaning guitar strings before use is probably a good idea in any case. My (used ones) would be caked a couple of months worth of dirt, sweat and finger grease which I guess would make painting them interesting. Brand new ones are sometimes coated with thin oil film to preserve them (which some musicians remove by boiling them in water.) Watch out for stabbing yourself in the finger with the 009's (I always seem to hit the middle of the finger I uses most !) I guess you'd have to attach them using CA or PVA (white) glue, whereas stretched sprue could be held with poly cement. Nylon "acoustic

I quite agree. I was just exploring the idea of using a power source I already had (ie a compressor) instead of buying another one (ie an electric drill,) but it seems more bother than it's worth (unless I start drilling my own teeth, but I don't have many that aren't done already.)

I fell in love with Sable brushes as a teenager. My art teacher of the time reckoned they were "better" because the hairs had a 'kink' (or bend) in them which meant that they came to a point much more readly than bristle or synthetics. He reckoned that each bristle was specially selected and bound in the ferrule to achieve this (hence they cost four time as much as the cheapos.) Somewhat born out by the fact that I could paint as thin a line with a sable than I could with the old "three hairer" I kept for extra special occasions. The difference is the sable can hold more paint than Mr three h

I used blu tac with some success. I liked it because with the aid of a cocktail stick I cold "finess" the edges exactly where I wanted and take as much time as I liked to do so (unlike maskol where you're working against the clock so to speak before it sets.) I used blu tac it to "plug" some air intakes already finished in matt black before applying a white top coat. It was on a 1/72 kit, so a wiggly line would probably be harder to spot with the naked eye. I doubt I'd win any competitions.

Would scribing (lightly) the angle between the tyre and the rim enhance the "demarkation" between the two, promote capilliary action round the rim and deter the leaching of the tyre colour up the rim?

Doubtless this is a previously debated topic, but I couldn't find a thread that covers it, in newbie terms, so please indulge me... A) Is it worth spraying a 1/32 airframe with a primer before colour coats. (I tend to think "yes" if nothing else for spotting imperfections in my seaming & filling.) B) What should I use? I read lots from people who are using car store rattle cans as primer, but I'm a little scared since, as kids, my brother used a rattle can on a (model) car he was building and the whole thing desolved before his eyes. If "B" would you spray it direct from the can (will

As my high school calligraphy teacher used to say, "Quink isn't ink." Some "inks" are actually "stains." I used to hate something called "Quink" which was sold in stationary stores as (cheap) fountain pen refill for the "got a pen for Chrismas" brigade. When you wrote on some types of paper with Quink the edges would "feather" and look horrible. If memory serves (it's a long time since I was at school) I was told that these "stain" type "inks" work by soaking into the paper and leave the pigment behind on the surface, because they are basically water based. "Proper" inks are solvent based an

Sorry, I can't remember where it was. I've checked a couple of my "usual suspects" such as Screwfix and RS, but it doesn't seem to be there. I do remember that it was "on offer" and reduced from GBP 35 or so. If I stumble across it again I'll post. Mick