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lordish

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About lordish

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  1. I have a planned hanging display in which a Dehavilland Mosquito NF Mk XXX is behind a Junkers Ju88G-6 and is firing it's 4 20mm Hispano cannon. How is it possible to simulate the muzzle flashes of those 4 big cannon, and for that matter the explosions of the shells as they hit the Junkers? This fight is supposed to be taking place at night, but since it's going to be hanging from my ceiling, I have to suspend my disbelief a bit. lordish
  2. OK I'm LOUSY at spray painting. I"m working on the Squadron Shops Cessna T-50 and I just sprayed it with Testor's White primer. On the wings, as usual, I found at least one run and two areas of orange peel. How do I repair these, short of stripping the paint and trying again? lordish
  3. I have several projects in my queue which are a/c that will have natural metal finishes. Frankly I'm lousy at spray painting and want to use one of the aluminum foil systems. I know nothing about them. Can someone give me a list of such foil systems, how they work, and where I can get them? lordish
  4. I'm working on a Mosquito and I'm hand painting it for my airbrush is missing it's siphon tube. How does one get out bad brush marks? Wet ultra fine sandpaper? lordish
  5. I'm recreating a scene from the novel, "633 Squadron: Operation Valkyrie." In that book, in order to sink a German warship carrying heavy water back to Germany, an entire squadron of RAF Dehavilland Mosquitoes stage out of England to a frozen lake in wintertime Norway. They are there to time the raid to sink the ship in the right spot so it can't be salvaged. It will show two mossies, a PR Mk 1 (Revell of Germany B Mk IV ) and a modified FB Mk VI (Tamiya, both in 1/48) standing on their parking area on the lake with their crews standing watching mechanics and armorers making final preps f
  6. How does one make a diorama base look like the surface of a frozen lake? I presume it's a lot like making a water base for a ship model. Could someone please explain the process? Thanks. Clayton Powers
  7. I found an old Italieri F-86E kit on Ebay. I read that the kit is not that hot, but is it possible I could filch the wing from THAT to fit it to my Academy F-40? lordish
  8. There's a new company with Sabre wings (not separate slats, entire wings with slats). But honestly, the best method I've found is to simply cut the leading edge slat well out of an RM F-86D and graft it onto the Hasegawa wing. It takes an hour at most, and you get nicely detailed slat wells, rails, and slats. I've done it twice and it's very easy (and probably cheaper than resin). J Got the name of the company there J? lordish
  9. OK what I want to do is add slats to my 1/48 Academy F-40. There was a company that made a set, BUT the company went under. Anyone got any links? lordish
  10. Well I hit my local AC Moore today and I found a lot of silver pencils and pens, including a Sharpie of all things. I also found a lot of pens with acrylic paint in them. So I got one of those, made by Borden of all people. In future, I think a lot of the colors that they offered will be useful for instrument panels or other raised details. I wonder if anyone has suggested to any of the major model paint mfgrs like Testors to put their colors in pens. They would be hella handy. lordish aka Clayton
  11. I'll try them. They don't sound too permanent. Do you recommend over spraying with dulcoat? lordish
  12. That sounds good, but do they come in metallic colors? I need colors like flat aluminum and stainless steel. lordish
  13. I am building a 1/48 scale Italieri V-22 Osprey. On the interior walls of the fuselage and in the wheel wells are a lot of embossed details, hydraulic lines, electrical conduits, structural ribs and the like. What are the methods of painting this fine detail? My hand isn't steady enough to take a 3-0 brush and just paint them. Is there a better method than that? Does painting the detail color covered by the prime color and lightly sanding off the prime cover to reveal the detail work? Is there a better method? lordish
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