Modelmkr

Rainbow Ten has the 1/72 Fujimi A-4B, A-4E, OA-4M, and TA-4J/F all in stock. Thier inventory list is updated daily, so that listing is accurate as of today.

Sprue shots 'n all. Take a look here.

Ah well, I do remember that now... guess I forgot.

For all those hoping and wishing Kinetic would release a Greyhound, your pryers have been answered! C-2A announcement ...discuss.

Hi Chris, I know you're always uber busy, but any idea when the Aphid dual rail launchers will be made available? Thx

I have the original release 1/32 Tamiya F-4C/D. It has engraved panel lines throughout. I don't recall any raised lines on this kit. The BDR patches are raised "plates", but most need to be sanded off anyway as these are largely incorrect for an active line jet (see this thread).

Potentially true for anyone in this hobby, but I'm in my mid 40's, been building since I was 7, and have always taken reasonable precautions with chemicals (vetilated room, fume hood with fan on, container caps off only when in use, etc.). Everyone has different reactions and sensitivities to chemical compounds. It's the reason why one person can smoke and drink all their life and live into their 90's only dying from old age, where someone else may succumb to cancer and liver disease by thier 30's... everyone is built different. That said, no one should recommend intentionally inhaling chemic

Hmmm, very stealthy.

Your question would be better answered by a medical doctor, rather than seeking conjecture and opinion from us. Bring along the product and have a copy of the WHIMIS information as well (every supplier of chemical products in North America MUST, by law, provide this info sheet). It is apparent that you have a particular chemical sensitivity to this product (and potentially others). I can only say that any fumes coming off of a small bottle of liquid cement have never caused me any issues. HTH.

+1 Yup. I usually give my "gloss" subjects a semi-gloss to satin finish and it looks way better in model scales.

Mmmm. You really can't get from point A to B with a 1/350 TOS Enterprise. The FJD Dreadnaught has a completely different saucer section, secondary hull and engine struts. The only thing you could use is *possibly* the primary to secondary neck and the engine nacelles. And I *think* even the engine nacelles were slightly over sized compared to the Enterprise (plus you'd have to source a third engine).

Thanks for the bio. I am going to have to go back and look at his other work on HS with a renewed eye to how it was done.

Man, that sounds like too much work! I'll take the quick and dirty way out and air brush. I'll say it again, then... that is really impressive if hand brushed

I think it's a matter of language. "Brush painted" can just as easliy mean air brushed as it can hand brushed. I would hesitate to think one can produce soft edges of that quality with a hand brush; but if he can, my hat off to him... extremely impressive. Regardless, a nice finish and nice build.

Snip. Agree they have been notoriously slow to release new non-Japanese 1/48 props, but you are forgetting the Fi156 Storch? Released late '07/ early '08. Anyway, for my part I'd agree with most (in no particular order) on the Tamiya Zero, AM Avengers, Dragon Bf110. Have the Fw189 on the way so can't comment yet. Also to consider, even with their faults, are the new Eduard Fw190s and F6Fs. Say what you will, but you get a lot of bang for the buck; nice surface detail, full engines, good decals, colour PE, masks, etc. With careful building and fitting, these can turn into real head turners

I can't really comment on the 1/72 scale kits, but my response was to the OP's query about the 1/48 Hasegawa Super Hornet.

Depends on your point of view. The surface detail on both kits are close in quality, Tamiya being somewhat better. The fit of the Tamiya kit is superb. Hasegawa does not traditionally give you many weapon options in their kits... never have. As for price, the Hornet is a larger aircraft so will contain more plastic, more (I think) parts and thus higher tooling costs, this coupled with recent increases in Hasegawa pricing structure, means the kit is typically priced higher. Locally in North America, this kit goes for $70-$80, so a price of $55 from Japan is really quite good. Mind you, you st

Okay, so it appears that for the upper roundels, they are applied over stenciling or at least over the "forward walkway" line. This can be clearly seen on the Starboard wing where the forward walkway line stops at the roundel, then continues on at the other side. It is NOT clear, however, if this is true for the lower roundels and trestle markings as the trestle markings are not shown in place; only a text indication referencing their location relative to the upper surface wing rib/spar. No other stencils are shown in place (fuselage etc.), so these are "unknown" as well. At least we know w

AirDoc makes 1/48 camo decals and stencils for RAF Phantoms in Germany. They can be tricky to find in stock, though.

More support that it is PS'd. Mother nature may be miraculous, but even she cannot produce grass blade paterrns, colouring and distribution to be exactly the same four years apart. And *if* we accept that perhaps these are pictures of two planes taken on the same day, look at the port leading edge slat grease/ soot stain patterns, the exhaust cone stain patterns, the spotty pattern aft of that little vent at the wing fuse join, all exactly the same (not to mention the flap and elevators exactly at the same random angles... on two "different" a/c). I'm all for thinking that aircraft are precis

Agreed. Fakedy, fake, fake. Other than the national insignia give away, there's also the external enviromental details. As was said, the fire extinguisher is in *exactly* the same place. Then there are the other indicators... the shadows. If you look at their relative locations to landmark details on the tarmac, the shadows fall in *exactly* the same place. Trying to put two aircraft in the same position, and at the same time of day on the same day of the year (if more than a year apart) to intentionaly duplicate shadows would be ridiculous; doing so coincidentally even more so. Switching out

Just FYI, Fine Molds instructions are all in Japanese, no English inserts and uses line drawings that are Japanese text heavy. Hyperscale has a review with a few built up shots that *may* be of some help. As well, this site has a few instruction photos that might give some clues. HTH.

I think people are still absorbing info on these rather than discussing, but I'll bite. I too, will be getting the W.29. A nice WWI float plane makes for a different subject and the inclusion of the dolly and wooden cradles is a nice touch but it screams for some figures to make a nice dockside or beachfront dio. I will pass on the DH.9, but for different reasons: that is one nightmare of a rigging job! Especially compared to the W.29. As for the DH being ugly; well, to me, it looks "unbalanced". Too much aircraft ahead of the wing spar makes it look awkward, but awkward is a trait for a lo

Nice. Shows what can be done with a kit that's a bit of a bear. It goes from a tail sitter to a TAIL SITTER with the wings folded. Are those the kit props? If they are, they came out nice and smooth.

Perhaps they will do a limited edition version with 10 bajillion rivets on it, sort of an homage to far east manufacturing