Barneydhc82

Flores...The good thing about this method is that you can get a sharp edge by raising the tape edge just the height of the thread and shooting at 15 psi. I'm working on a 1/48 scale Hurricane MkXIIB and I'll post some pics of the paint sequence when I get to that stage. Barney

Looking good Sean...My better half gave me one for Christmas and I'll start it after I finish my 1/48 Hurricane XIIB, 133 Sqn Boundary Bay. Barney

The original factory applied camoflage patterns were hard edged but the infield were soft edged. By using thread under the edge of the tape, you can regulate the height of the tape edge by pressing the tape down from the centre of the mask to the thread edge...and by spraying at 15 psi you get a very smooth transition between colours. Give it a try you'll love the effect Barney

Very simple Grasshopper...I buy the low tack 3M painters tape...about 2" wide...draw out the area to be covered on the tape which I then cut out then lay in some thread on the tacky side about 1/8" in from the edge. I spray the model with the lighter colour and when dry start adding the masks. When the model is completely masked, I spray the open areas with the final colour. i.e.: Spitfire/Hurricane...underside medium sea grey then mask hard edge. Then spray Dark Green...lay on the masks...spray Ocean Grey or Dark Earth as required. The thread raises the edge very spightly and when spray

I've found that Gunze liquid mask has been very useful for canopy panels...you just have to be patient with it. Now Parafilm is really a waste of money.... Barney

I'm one of those old dinosaurs that think post/pre-shading on a model turns the finished product into a caricature of the real thing. Recently in FSM, there was a gallery of models that looked great as far as the build went but horribly wrong with shaded panel lines that were grotesque. There was also a photo of, of all things, a Mosquito that had panel lines everywhere...and the Mossie has very few panels. For the most part a very subtle panel line wash should be all that is needed if you must but since the IPMS USA craze of spraying the crap out of all panels hit the community, the whol

Let's try some Canuckistan nicknames: T-33 Truck CF-100 Clunk/ Lead Sled C-45 Bugsmasher Sabre Sword C-47 Douglas Racer

Justin: For the best results a sable brush, about 1/2 inch wide and use PollyScale both Gloss and Flat. I add a couple of drops of Liquitex Acrylic Flow Enhancer to slow down the drying time and only brush in one direction. And please ...leave the Future on the floor where it belongs.... <_< Barney

Oliver: The "plastic" from the plastic shop is not styrene plastic and about the only thing that will bond this stuff is Methylene Chloride...a very potent and harmful chemical. You might want to get some Evergreen plastic sheet from a hobby shop as it is styrene and compatible with injection moulded models. The Methylene chloride works great on models. If you drip some on a part, just wait for it to evaporate and a light sanding will take care of the spot...BUT be careful to use in a well ventilated room. Barney

One way of showing the recessed fasteners is to sharpen the end of a piece of brass or steel tubing, chuck it in a pin vice and lightly engrave them by turning the pin vice. Here's how I manage complex panels...Before sanding off the panel lines, I take a piece of paper, tape it over the area and rub over it with a soft pencil. I then cut out the area and transfer the pattern to sheet plastic. This is the cut out and dressed with fine sandpaper and start scribing.

I usr 600 grit wet sandpaper and just take off the tops of the lines leaving a faintly visible line for reference. The 1/48 scale Hercules took me over 100 hours to rescribe all panel lines but the effect is worth the effort. Part of the complexity of the Herc was making special panel guides for the wing root area and a few other places. Barney

Tape the fuselage sides together and scribe the panel lines across the top and bottom for an accurate match after they are glued together.

There are any number of scribing tools available...I use a dental pick that I keep very sharp. Lightly sand down the raised lines but leave enough to use as a guide. Use Dymo label tape as a hard edge guide and make 3-4 passes with the scribing tool...do not try to get the effect in one pass as it usually ends up in a mess. Barney

If you want to see large one piece decals check out the Airshowmodels on my web site. 1. Use very warm water to soften the decals and release them from the paper. 2. Use saliva on the area to be covered 3. Use a flat paint brush dipped in Microscale Decal Set to position the decal and remove excess water from under the decal. 4. Allow to dry for a short while then brush on a bit of Microscale Decal Sol or Solvaset...AND LET IT DRY...Do not touch the decals at this stage even though it looks like it is wrinkling all to H@#$ 5. Give the decal a day to flatten out the spray or brush on

Looks good Frank...except that Barney would have used a 4" brush made out of horsehair...that way he would have been able to paint the whole cockpit with one swipe Barney...the original.

There is such thing as 5 minute epoxy but again setting time can depend on ratio of resin and hardner, room temperature, and age of the epoxy. There is no accelerator for epoxy. Barney

Shawn...here's a tip that works very well with Polly Scale and metalizer under coat. To get that chipped paint effect, get a bottle of Mr Mask, a liquid masking goop...Paint the metalizer and when dry spatter drops of Mr Mask where the chipping will occur and when dry spray the PS. Now take masking tape and apply over the Mr Mask spots and snap off the PS with the tape. The effect is very realistic. Barney...good luck

I've ben using Polly Scale Acrylics for many years and never had a problem with paint not adhereing to plastic. I do give most parts a light sanding with 600 grit wet sand paper then wash the model with liquid dish soap to get the finger oils off of it. I've used a lacquer primer a few times but really don't see any need of it. HTHs Barney

My .02 from a confirmed Polly Scale Adict.... I've been using Polly Scale for quite a few years and I get very good results...and for the colours I thin with Polly Scale Thinners...tried water ...alcohol...with lousy results. I thin to 50/50 and add 2-3 drops of Liquitex Acrylic Flow Enhancer per paint cup. There is absolutely no need to thin the clear finishes...spray straight from the bottle at 15-20 psi. But the trick is to practice with your particular airbrush and the new product. Barney http://www.barneysairforce.com

Why not go to an automotive supply store and pick up a roll of 1/8" tape used for custom car flame jobs. You can get either 3M Blue Vynil or 3M paper rolls. The paper tape(Green) is enough to last for a very long time and only $5.95 CDN This stuff is used for spraying very fine lines to get a hard edge. Barney

Thanks Tilt...I'll try to find them before I start these two aircraft just to be certain that I get it right. I'm doing the 410 Sqdn 60th bird and the Hornet 20th bird to go with the 75th Anniversary aircraft. Barney

Tilt: I'm looking at a Cf-18 single seat and a two seat with the Leading Edge decals...big question...Which seat is in the Cdn birds and who makes a good resin replacement? BTW I'm doing the Hasegawa kits. Barney

For filling wing root gaps with Tamiya Putty use finger nail polish remover...without acetone...and a Qtip. If you use acetone, you can kiss your project goodbye. This tip is in the Tips n' Tools section and comes from Will Hendriks of Victoria, BC Barney...use this one a lot

No matter how you cut it...you still have to strain Polly Scale Flat clear coat. Beg, borrow or steal a pair of panty hose...don't use your own...cut into 2 inch squares and pour the Flat finish through the strainer. No thinner is required but 2-3 drops of Liquitex Acrylic Flow Enhancer (available at art supply stores) will help the flow-out of the sprayed finish. Polly Scale clear coats do not require thinning. And spray at about 15 psi. HTHs Barney

Polly Scale Clear finishes do not require thinning...straight from the bottle....If you want a bit better flow out, then use two or three drops of Liquitex Acrylic Flow Enhanser to a paint cup...available at most if not all, art supply stores. Barney