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72linerlover

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About 72linerlover

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 06/01/1956

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    Cremona - Italy

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  1. Just what Bob said above. From my experience, I find useful rubbing the plastic cover with a wool cloth, so it electrically charges, attracting the dust on itself. Regards Euge
  2. Thank you very much for your reply. Now I have no choice: I have to build those tiny things. Bye Euge
  3. Hallo Boeing 707 experts. I have a question about the vortex generators on the wing extrados. Were those generators mounted also on early 707-100 series as f.e. N707PA in 1958? I cannot find any picture where is clearly understandable if they were or not. Thanks in advance. Bye Euge
  4. Hi, Dutch, I'm really sorry to read this. I sympathize with you since on February the 13th I broke the three malleoli of the left foot as I slipped on ice in the mountains. I was brought to the local hospital with an EC-145 (10minutes flight). Had surgery and still have a titanium plate inside (the only thing I have of this precious metal). Was very tedious but I was able to keep on working at home. My best wishes.
  5. wm_cheng, have you looked at their website? There is something interesting. If your jar is already full of water, try to warm it up. Kind regards Euge
  6. Hi, Dog1 Welcome to the CODWA (Club Of Decal Warping Accidents) and to the Forum. When it happens, I take the decal out of the water with a brush. I mix a drop of dish wash in few water (say 1/30 ratio) and soak the brush with the decal on it. (the dish wash lowers the surface tension and helps the surfaces to separate) 50% works, but it is whort to try. Good luck Euge
  7. Hi Valerio. Please excuse me, but on international forums is correct to write in English. I'll send you a private message. Best regards Euge
  8. Hi, Curt. I'd add to previous suggestions a consideration regarding the kind of NMF paint. In my experiences I always used Testors enamel gloss black with good results. If you are going to use a lacquer based NMF paint as Alclad2, the enamel base is a must. Acrylics gloss are not suitable to be tinted with that stuff, but also for enamel based NMF. Acrylics NMFs are OK on almost any kind of base. Note: Acrylics paints make a strong barrier on the surface and (even if hot) lacquers don't stick on them and this way is how lacquers work; just tinting and not p
  9. Hello everybody. Thank you Underdog and Ray for your comments. I've managed to get some work done in preparation for painting. Well, the painting stage is not behind the corner, but I have to do some things now, otherwise such works could damage the painted model. First the landing light. The transparencies in the kit are quite nice and fit perfectly into the leading edge. They are too much clear, so it is necessary to put something inside. Closed the rear part of the lamp with a piece of polystyrene. Made 2 little bulbs with stretched clear polystyrene. Stil
  10. Ray, that Herc looks really great. Love those walk ways and your recovery on them. You know there is a legend about how was discovered that "Future" was a good stuff for models: apparently a not closed bottle spilled down from a shelf in a garage on a painted model... Great finish. A lesson for detail hunting. Euge
  11. Hi, everybody. I've got some progress to report on the Caribou. Also the kinematic of the main gear doors is really complicated. In fact, the leg acts on some leverages that move the doors and make them close. It took long to understand from the photos and the manual how it actually works, but at the end I did. Doing something that looks like the real thing requires to work on the model sitting upside down on the jig. I had to do it now, absolutely before the painting stage. There are not great details, but quite visible on the finished model. So, you can see the doo
  12. Perfect said, Dutch. That matches with my knowledge. On the modeling side, I'd say that is always easier shortening than stretching, so if you like the Authentic Airliners engines, you'll face an easy task. Bye Euge
  13. Dutch, Actually the inboard long pylons feature is typical of the 707 and it could be that Kurt has a single mould for both models. An other point is that the Kurt's long (wrong) pylons of the TF33 are for the outer engines, as you can see in your second pic, where there are also the TC humps. Bye Euge
  14. Hallo everyone. Sometimes come up questions in the forum regarding finishing and painting problems and I was use to wait for a post by Triarius (ARC member), a very expert in the filed of chemicals and a very kind person. I sent him a PM but no answer. Has anyone news of him? Best regards Euge
  15. Hallo everybody. Thank you for your words, mates. Interesting, but I don't understand how a Caribou can inspire a C-119, beside to be both transport aircraft. A friend of mine asked me to prepare a sort of sample for the mechanical part of a testing instrument. Back to industry modeling after decades. Therefore I have to clear the bench and temporally stop the Caribou project. As last update of the year, I post a pair of pics of the painted gear legs in test fit. Thanks for watching Euge
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