72linerlover

Thanks you all friends for the comments. Just a quick update regarding the horizontal tailplanes Once adjusted the thickness difference between the tailplanes and their farings in the fuselage and glued in, I made the hinges for the movable surfaces. I was afraid that a piece of plastic could have been too weak, so I drilled three little holes, glued inside a piece of brass rod, than covered on both sides with thin strips styrene. The parts stay in place without glue, so I think they are ok, from a dimensional point of view. Thanks for watching Regards Euge

Hi, cvnf14p3ordy. Stop. Don't use nail polish remover. There is a 10% probability that the glue you used didn't damage the transparency, thanks to the future. You may try removing the rail with the add of some ammonia based window cleaner. This will damage the rest of the future coat, but can be recovered. I'd suggest to protect with brushed future the painted and decaled parts, then mask them with vinyl electrical tape. Use the window cleaner to remove the previous future, wash with soap and refuture. Hope this helps. Regards Euge

My God. That's my destiny! Every time I convert or scratchbuild something, someone in the world starts producing that model. Can't wait to see one finished; sure before than I'll be ready with mine! Nice conversion and brave enterprise, Michael. Regards Euge

Hi, Superjew, That's what I did when I made masters for a limited run production of train cars that had wooden floors. Trust me, it works fine. Regards Euge

Hi, Romanator21. This is what I have done some years ago, so, sorry, no pics. Scribe the surface where the ribs have to be. Glue in some styrene strips. Remembering those old model airplanes that had paper covered wings, try to find some of that stuff: it should be named "Japanese paper" – the tiniest type. Cut a small piece of it (quite larger than your control surface) and gently wet it. Lay it down and glue to the first rib, using a small brush. The glue has to pass trough the paper to the styrene. When set, glue the same way to the last rib or to the tip (if any). Than place ceme

Hi superview. Just what I was writing. I'd only add: I hope your fuselage is not yet glued and you have access inside of it. If so, close the hole with tape outside. Use the SBARC"s method and lay the paste in thin layers. It is important to be sure that each layer is dry, because the paste shrinks a lot. see more http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1...stic/tnt066.htm. Regards Euge

So, my friends, after a long period of other works to attend to, I am back to this project. I managed to rescribe the wing and to prepare other parts like the little slotted surfaces for the flaps and those little fairings for the actuators. Template for rescribing the lower wing surface Upper right wing rescribed and assembly test Ailerons hinges seem to be on the right place General view Wing and fuselage seem to be OK together I am leaving next Friday for a two weeks holiday in Austria. See you in September. Thanks for watching Regards Euge

Hi all. Is anyone aware if Revell Plasto putty doesn't comply the European safety standards? A hobby store keeper in Italy told it has been retired due to that reason and probably re-released with a different formula. Not a big fan of that putty, but sometimes it is useful. My guess is that store keeper has low profit on it. Regards Euge

Hi, Mancunian Lee Primer and / or filler: you cannot go wrong with Tamiya grey or white primer or Mr. Surfacer. Airbrush cleaning (immediately) after Alclad use: simply rubbing alcool. Regards Euge

Hi Kev, I suggest you to buy this book by a dear friend of mine. If you need further information, I'll ask her to email you, if you PM me your email address. She is expert of Douglas aircraft Regards Euge

Jelle, I can hear the full throttle reverse!! Very nice. Euge

Hi Fabio. It is correct. Turning upside down the wing, you will notice there are 3 hinges lined up with the panel lines. In the Heller kit are represented as little fairings. http://www.airliners.net/photo/Fri-Reyes/D...DC-4/1615642/L/ The flaps on the DC-4 and DC-6 were simply hinged. Different story on the DC-7 family even in the early types. If you are going to cut the flaps, do not forget to add a little section in the upper side that, when retracted, is hidden by the wing – fuselage fairing. It corresponds to the white part you see in the left main flap in the first photo of this p

Hi all. Frequently it occurs that people ask questions, specially in the Tools 'n' Tips forum, that have already been answered. Not a real problem. If I can, I answer, if not, I say nothing, but someone waits for a long time. Many don't use the search feature in the forum, that can sometimes be a little tricky. Others don't search in the ARC Tools 'n' tips page, so put the questions and wait. That said, would it be possible to make a search engine restricted to the Tools 'n' Tips page that redirects to the proper article among those that are listed in that section or to the ARC RMS FAQ.? J

Hi, Fisher I could be mistaken, but I never knew there was a Caravelle IV Most common variant were type III, VI N and VI R; among them many were I A and III updated to the new standards. Don't have a great experience of the Airfix kit; if memory still works, it represents a III. There aren't big differences until the type VI R with exception for the cockpit and its windshield. Types with "R" had thrust reversers. The type 10 had the span increased and with the 10B, the wing top view changed near the fuselage at the leading edge. The 12 had a more increased span, but can't be sure if the

Good day, sirs. So, this is what I did. Based on Kevin's advise, I chose a pitch, made the support for the first blade, adjusted in height. Rotating the hub I will find the same conditions for the further blades. Seems to work. @ homerojr, thanks for your kind words. Regards Euge

homerojr, beautiful decaling. What catch my eyes are those engines cones. Alclad II or? Euge

Thanks, Kevin I tried last night, but every time I remove a blade, the plasticine deforms a little. I'll try something similar out of styrene, following your useful tip. Euge

Hi, sirs. I'd rather start from the Welsh 720B that features the JT3D engines and has most common parts with the 138B: wing glove (see Jenning's drawing – compare the two root airfoils), stabilizers, small sized ventral fin and inboard engine pylons (the #4 pylon of the 138B has a TC hump too). As for the fuselage length, you have to remove 7 mm fore the wing. Half of what you remove, you will add aft of the wing (3.5 mm) As far as I know, but I may be wrong; please someone correct me. I know Welsh 720b is quite expensive. catfan, let us know what you decided ... Regards Euge

Hi guys Lot of work in these last days, smoothing parts and preparing for base coats, but nothing is worth to be shown. Also the propeller blades are almost finished. Now I'm trying to make a jig that helps me to glue all the four blades with the same pitch onto the hub. I have to do this before painting in order to not damage the finish. If someone has suggestion, I'll appreciate a lot. Thanks so much Hope to have something new next weekend Regards Euge

Hi, catfan. Probably there is something around you like factories that make blisters for medicines or the like. This is the best source for styrene sheets to be vacuum formed, both colored and clear. Besides, you have to plan what are the dimensions of your largest project and find a factory that makes moulds for thermoforming. If you will have a short run production, resin moulds are ok, but if you are going for a long run production, you need metal moulds. That said, my advice is: do not try to do all by yourself. Reserve for you the creative part, making the masters and let other profes

Hi HOLMES. The echo of news like these often comes so weak in many occasions that we don't think that could happen to us too. Reading about your adventure, it seems so closer to me. I'm really happy you and your house are well. Euge

A Gathering of Eagles Love those KC135 Euge

Hi, nightmare77 So many views and no reply: I have to tell you something I have no specific experience of Anigrand, but some more with resin. I was waiting replying right for that reason, but you need some advices:here they are. 1. What type of adhesive should I use? Id like a 5 minute epoxy but which type? Any type works well, but to get the best results, as I said in another thread, warm it up. I quote myself: "room temperature not less than 22-24°C with low moisture. mix the parts on a thin steel plate and heat it up just a little from the lower side with a candle: not too much (you

Absolutely serious. Chaos or not, the result is important! Euge

Hi, HL-10 Upscale Divide the biggest number by the smallest In your case, 72/32 the result is the increase factor: 2.25 you have to scale up 2.25 times your drawing (on a copier or with a computer 225%) Downscale In the opposite case, divide the smallest number by the biggest Example 32/72 = 0.44- you have to scale down 0.44 times your drawing (on a copier or with a computer 44%). Regards Euge