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72linerlover

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Everything posted by 72linerlover

  1. Absolutely serious. Chaos or not, the result is important! Euge
  2. Hi, HL-10 Upscale Divide the biggest number by the smallest In your case, 72/32 the result is the increase factor: 2.25 you have to scale up 2.25 times your drawing (on a copier or with a computer 225%) Downscale In the opposite case, divide the smallest number by the biggest Example 32/72 = 0.44- you have to scale down 0.44 times your drawing (on a copier or with a computer 44%). Regards Euge
  3. Hi, Tim Great job on that landing gears. I knew it was a model, but I thought to see the real thing, for a while. I love the organization of your workspace Regards Euge
  4. Welcome witbaas. Asking questions is the first reason of this forum; answering questions is the second. First of all: do not use any kind of solvent, whatever kind of paint you used. I am afraid your canopy is already glued to the rest of the model. If so, mask around along the panel lines to protect other parts from damaging. Gently sand the canopy with the highest grade of wet-paper you have. Work slowly, be patient. Rub with a good polishing compound and/or with tooth paste Wash with water. You should be able, at this point, to repaint. If the canopy is fogged inside by cyanoacryla
  5. Thank you all, for your comments. Really converting and scratchbuilding have been easier than correct the issues of the kit, so far. As regards the livery, well.. I'm too in love with the golden days of Alitalia, when was a serious airline. Regards Euge
  6. I wouldn't (and I don't) use a pressure switch, I'd let the compressor run continuously and let the valve regulate the pressure. That said, the pressure switch might have a registering bolt or something similar that has to be tightened in order to get the pressure you need before it switches the power off. I mean tightened as registered. The little hole you mention might be the escape hole for the overpressure before the switch off. Have I correct understood? Make a test, warping temporarily some tape around that hole and see what happens. Euge
  7. markjobse, I am amazed by those nav lights! Euge
  8. Epoxy glues and epoxy resins catalyze due to a chemical bond between the two components, so the ratio is stated by the manufacturer. (H2O is water, but I wouldn't drink H2O2) Most instructions recommend, if you are in doubt about the ratio, to use more binder (resin) than catalyzer. So, adding more catalyzer is not the proper thing to do. Heat speeds up the process, but too much will compromise the mechanical characteristics of the glue. Generally: - room temperature not less than 22-24°C with low moisture. - mix the parts on a thin steel plate and heat it up just a little from the low
  9. I had only last Saturday the bad news. We met many times since my father passed in 2003. They were together in the University of Milan. Stelio Frati, Ermenegildo Preti and my father. He was the last surveyor. His soul flies with his creatures, probably among the finest aircraft in the world. Fly with the angels, Stelio. Euge
  10. Hi, craigcol. You need a tank with a relative large screw with a rubber washer in the bottom. You make a tubing line from the compressor to the side of the tank. Another coming from the top of the tank to your airbrush. Just place on top of the tank a manometer, with an adjustable valve, so you can check the pressure and adjust it as you need. The valve should be rated at a reasonable maximum pressure, in order to not overcharge both the tank and the compressor. If the compressor is in good condition, it shouldn't loose much oil, but if not, the oil will flow to the tank and deposit on th
  11. Fang, I always ask myself why we modelers look for difficult kits to build, but the answer is in the name: we are modelers. You are doing something great. You don't know how many times I have pulled out my old Airmodel Jetstar, forgetting every time how bad it is and than stored again. Keep it up. Euge
  12. Sorry, friends, for having been offline for so long: lot of troubles, but they seem to be over now. I didn't recall the gear struts in the kit were so rough, so I managed to improve a little those tiny parts: long but not difficult task anyway. So the gear bays and the main doors are finished now and I'll be able to complete the wing with the oil coolers. Thanks for looking. Euge
  13. Hi, sabresandhunters. If decals don't need it, I wouldn't seal anything, but opinions may vary. Look here. If I could lay down the white as you did on the FORRESTAIR DC-3, sure I wouldn't. Euge
  14. sabresandhunters, You have done a wonderful job on that DC-3. Those extralong windows are eye catching. I love the white finish on the fuselage: not flat, but not dazzling gloss. Euge
  15. Thank you friends. Your comments are too kind. As I always say, things are better in photos as they really are, but you all give me motivation. Paul, thanks for the link. Although I researched everywhere to find documentation about the 7C, I have never seen those photos. Thanks a lot for sharing. Euge
  16. Hi guys, I'm having a difficult time on the job due to the Quality system audit by the certification Body and had few time for modeling. Anyway this is what I was able to do, working 15 minutes a day. Tomorrow the audit will be finished, so I'll be not so tired in the evening and will dress up the other gear housing, at least. Regards Euge
  17. Thanks, Paul for the note regarding the gear doors. Jennings, thank you for your comment, but please (I am not English native and not expert of acronyms or similar) explain me what !@#$%& means! Euge
  18. trpsarge, Your story is a "bitter-sweet symphony" as many are about liners of those years. Thanks for sharing. Thanks for your kind comments too. The F-Rsin 7C is a nice model; have fun with it! Regards Euge
  19. Thank you mates, for the comments. That doors are so thin because they have to be completed inside with a boxed structure. I am investigating how they really are. As far as I know they were used as airbrakes too, so they need to be stronger as in the DC-6. Hope to be ready for some update next week. Regards Euge
  20. Hi, Tony. DO NOT heat up or touch with hot blades you resin whatever kind it may be. I don't know how the part is connected, how big or little it is, but I suggest using the smallest "mouse tail file" you have or a fine grade scroll-saw blade. Be patient, work slowly and always prevent any heating with water through an eyedropper. Regards Euge
  21. Hi, Phatsamurai, welcome to the club of the desperate Heller airliners kits builders. I know exactly how you feel. If some of my experiences in the DC-7 build can help you, please ask. I wish you my best. Regards Euge
  22. Hi, flyingdragons75, I'm sorry that your request has fallen in the second page without replies. I'd really like to help you, vacuforming (or better) just thermoforming that canopy, but I'm afraid we are far each other, since your local time, and we had to pay a lot for shipping. I think it could be opportunity for you to start making the canopies by yourself. It is not that difficult if you accept a not-raised-fames-canopy. So your master will be the mould for a male-mould casting. If you need, I can send a little tutorial via email for a simple thermoforming process. I'm having a difficu
  23. Hi, Superjew. As far as I have understood your transparency is still separated. So, whatever you may have done before, rub vigorously inside with some cotton and tooth paste (not the gel type). Lay down a little layer of paste and let sit for a while. Fill inside with cotton and rub turning the part with your fingers as you turn the cotton inside with the other hand. Repeat the operation several times until you are satisfied. Wash with water and soap. Also Tamyia polishing compound works well and if you have it, use this stuff first, but I recommend to finish with tooth paste anyway. A
  24. Hi all. In the last week I worked on the wing and moveable parts. From top to bottom: fully modified flaps with the internal added sections (in white) ailerons with trims tailplanes Master for main gear doors and vacuformed parts Test fit of the gear doors Gear doors test in opened position Thanks for watching Euge
  25. Great job, VADM Reddy to produce aftermarkets for that kit! Euge
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