72linerlover

Thank you for your comments, guys. It happened that some manufacturers made a kit, right when I finished converting or scratchbuilding a model. A long time ago Matchbox issued the G-91Y, Pioneer2 a Tucano and, more recently, some other a Blanik. Hopefully someone will make a 1/72 7C. So if you need a new subject, let me know: I'm sure that after I will have made, it will be issued, if this is my destiny. I have no doubt there are mistakes and hopefully someone of you will point them out when I'll be on time to recover. One I discovered is that the pax windows are too low (at least 1mm),

My guess. Alenia Aermacchi M 346 Master Length: 11.5 meters Height: 4.98 meters Wing-span: 9.72 meters Euge

Hi guys. There are two factors, beside the effective output voltage, that affect the efficiency of lighting leds. 1. Most of power units provide pulsating current because the mains AC is not rectified in a pure DC output. What is given is the positive and the negative semi wave of the AC. This means that your DC output varies from 0 to +3 and –3 V with the same frequency of the mains. Advanced DC supplies have capacitors inside that perform an almost pure DC. 2 Lighting leds require stabilized voltage. This is sure with batteries, but, once again, more expensive DC supplies solve the prob

Hallo. Little update today. I discovered that the main tire of the CL-215/415 waterbombers are the same size of the front one of the DC-7C. Also the hub is similar, so I made one mold of the external side and cast two. The halves are glued together and the thread is scribed. It needs some filling. Meanwhile, the wing is primed I am currently working on flaps and ailerons. Regards Euge

Too rounded nose to be a dash 80? Euge Oh no! This is the prop forum. Please, forgive me.

Well, Living Legend, you have pointed out what is wrong in your opinion. Not to say "bravo" anyway, but I want to tell you that I like the gray painting on the wing and on the stabilizer. Also the leading edges appear real, on the cowlings too. Unfortunately I can't find photos of a weathered Ethiopian jet, except some dirt on the flaps or/and spoilers, but just a bit could get better what you think not perfect. Try to polish the gloss coat with some cotton and toothpaste (not the gel type). It is very gentle with all finishes. I like your 737. Regards Euge

Take a look here. Eye shadows are a bit more oily and adhere well. And they are cheaper, I guess. Regards Euge

Hi, dankoo. I'm not a "future tinting" expert, but since your post has already 20 views with no reply, I'd try to tell you something. Since future is not easy to clone, you can mix some water based acrylic clear with Tamiya Smoke, thin the mix with distilled water, soak a piece of clear styrene into and see what happens. OK water is not the Tamiya solvent, but it is the cheapest stuff that increases the surface tension in order to make the mix selfleveling. So not "future tinting", but "soak tinting" anyway. Regards Euge

Hi all. While attempting to start applying the strips on the model, I realized that it was impossible to get the correct shape without the cockpit installed. So I started gluing and reconstructing the frames. They still need some finishing. Once copied the traces on tape, I scanned it and put the resulting image as background of a cad drawing. If I had a 3D model of the fuselage, it would have been easier, so I tried that rough way. This is the result that I'll test in the next days. Regards Euge

What Old Blind Dog says. I'd suggest to wet sand with a sanding stick of the same grade as far as it is possible. If you use something flexible you will risk to sand more at the sides of the run than the run itself or to make light depressions that need to be leveled later. Only when you got an even surface, light wet sand with sandpaper under your fingers. Regards Euge

Ok, Chris. I'll send hopefully next week end. Euge

Hi, Chris. There probably is something that doesn't work with the e-mails, since I have not received any reply to my messages. Anyway this is what I have. If you are still interested is you for free. Regards Euge

Hi. Really nobody has this part? Euge

Hi, carioca Really beautiful lady. I love that clean livery. Your masking job in the nose area has the signs of perfection. Let me say: congratulations. Regards Euge

Thanks for responding. I have the old Heller boxing with the JT3C engines. The instructions mention one p.n. 314, but there insn't Euge

Hi all. I've got a problem. In the heller boxing of the KC-135 there should be the second air conditioner inlet to be installed on the starboard part of the belly for the french variant. I have this boxing, but the alternative part n. 314 is missing. Probably the Italeri boxing contains the second inlet too. Has someone this part and doesn't use? If so please pm me. Thanks Regards Euge

Hi all. I've got a problem. In the heller boxing of the KC-135 there should be the second air conditioner inlet to be installed on the starboard part of the belly for the french variant. I have this boxing, but the alternative part n. 314 is missing. Probably the Italeri boxing contains the second inlet too. Has someone this part and doesn't use? If so please pm me. Thanks Regards Euge

Hi Jelle and Randie. It's not that difficult. Your main weapon is patience. I start protecting the part with transparent tape – both sides. Than: - drill a 1 mm hole in the middle ow the window you are going to cut: hand drilling absolutely. - second pass with 2 mm - remove the tapes - use a round file and start milling, enlarging the hole - use various shaped files until you are satisfied. Of course this is applicable only if you throw away the cutouts. The windows you see in the pic are not the cutouts; they are made of thin transparent styrene. Regards Euge

Thank you Jelle and Frank, for your comments. I have a little update regarding the cockpit windows. Since there were scratches in the plastic (not outside, nor inside), I removed the side windows and rebuilt them to be slid back positioned Cockpit test fit: no go! Lot of adjusting in front of me At this point I have to stop putting parts together and start drawing the artwork for the decals. Not so difficult except for the nose – loved and hated Alitalia pentagram livery. Regards Euge edited for typo

"This miserable mode Maintain the melancholy souls of those Who lived withouten infamy or praise" … No fame of them the world permits to be; Misericord and Justice both disdain them. Let us not speak of them, but look, and pass." Dante: The Comedy Longfellow Translation Regards Euge

Yes, Ant, I cast the seats. I made two different masters for the two sizes, than cast five of each and made a new mold for ten pieces to accelerate the process. Armrests and brackets are separated cast. Fuselage halves ready to be glued together Not so much will be visible from outside, but the fuselage doesn't look empty. Regards Euge

Hi, homerojr. I think the finish you got with Alclad Polished Aluminum is the best I have ever seen. It doesn't look toy-like as sometimes happens. Marvelous job. Regards Euge

Hi, Triarius. Probably I am missing something due to the language, but I normally don't buy sanding sticks; I make them by myself. I cut a piece of plasticard of the proper thickness for the required flexibility and of the proper wide for each use. Than stick on the grade of sandpaper I need, with some double adhesive band and contour with a blade. Sometimes I do the same with aluminum profiles, instead of plastic if rigidity is a must. Regards Euge

Hi, Christian. I sent you an email at the address stated in your previous post. Regards Euge

Thanks Fang for your kind words. Yes, I have a lot of fun in this project, but sometimes I am discouraged by the amount of work it requires. As I proceed and investigate the documentation, I discover some new things to be added. The friends give me motivation though, as you al well. Some updates: Passengers' seats installed Improved fuselage side walls around the windows and shades. Regards Euge