72linerlover

Hi, friends. Some little works on the cockpit, just to put something that could be visible when closed in the fuselage. Cast parts for engines and propellers. Regards Euge

Thanks, Maurizio I was referring to clear resin vacuum casting. Are you going to use this or you will simply pure the resin in the silicon moud directly? Euge

Hi Maurizio As I saw your G-91 fuselage divided in three parts I remembered when back in 1976 or so, I did the same in 1/72 with the Airfix kit to get a Y. Curious that some years later I used a Matchbox Y to build a T, in the same scale. I'm sure that the Y will come out nice as your T too: my best congratulations. By the way: what kind of clear resin are you going to use for the canopy? Will you vacuum cast? Regards Euge

Hi, all. Please excuse me for my silence in the week end; I was busy with a great "Modeling Expo" in Verona. Thank so much guys, for your kind words. Yes, the left over parts were enough for a DC-4, but the starboard tail section was used to recover a mistake in the aft passengers windows and the whole front fuselage went to a friend for another project. In fact I thought to use them for the DC-4, but I decided to fight with the Mach2 kit, when I'll be a grown up boy… Upper wings with new big nacelles. Flaps and ailerons have been cut. Some bits of cast parts, masters for new molds

Hi, all. This post is dedicated to the tail section of the build. It is applicable also to the DC-4 – 7B family. Unfortunately Heller didn't catch the correct shape of the bottom line of the aircraft. In the drawing you see in black lines the Heller DC-6B shape and in red the correction needed. It is not to scale, due to the large dimensions, but you can scale it up, knowing that the fuselage high is 49 mm. It is better to correct the tailplane incidence first and the fuselage shape later. In the next pics you see the correction outside and inside. Regards Euge

Wing fuselage assembly test Modified vertical fin Correcting the tail plane incidence: it has to be +1 degree to the fuselage horizontal center line. I made two perpendicular cuts, without removing the parts. Then bent to the proper incidence. Regards Euge

Thanks Jennings, for having pointed out the difficulty regarding the tyres, and it is not the only one. I am considering in these days how to replicate the nose wheel hub. As I told at the beginning, the project has started long time ago, so the nacelles are actually already done, but I'll post pics about at the proper time. They are made of a balsa wood core covered with milliput. More updates tomorrow. Regards Euge

Stretching the fuselage Wing spear and central span extension The handle in the middle will be removed later. Checking the dihedral Regards Euge

I'll explain step by step in the thread, but what come immediately on eyes is: the overall grainy finish the wrong bottom line of the rear fuselage – it is a smooth curve from the end of the wing fairing to the tailplane in the real thing and the kit is far from this the fuselage halves do not join in the middle of the length, but they do in the nose and the tail areas. Note that if you squeeze them, as you would glue them, the windows' line is no more straight, but depressed the wing fairings are different left and right OK nothing that couldn't be recovered, but just not a good kit.

Hi Randie, I hope this will be useful. The aft cut is right after the end of the wing fairing. The aft extesion plug is 14 millimeters. Regards Euge

Yes it is. I bought two of them at half the price of the SAS/UTA liner version, since I needed two 6 to build one 7C. Not only the colour is awful, but… no other choice in this scale. Euge

Hi all, as someone of you probably know, I'm converting a 1/72 Heller DC-6 B into a DC-7 C. It is a long time ago started project and it will take long to be finished. Before posting further images and take space in the forum, I'd like to know if anyone is interested to seeing it. Please, moderators, tell me if I may post here instead of in the "in-progress forum", since I think it could be more appropriate. This is the beginning and this is what I aim to reach. Thank you Regards Euge

Bonjour, Etienne. It sounds like you are going to start beautiful projects. Do not be afraid by the polycarbonate/lexan option; in the factory where I work I make prototypes with this stuff and a good primer is enough for a nice painting job and the primer I use is not better than Tamiya. Good luck Euge

I quote this site: http://www.recochem.com/files/downloads/SO...ure_English.pdf scroll to page 3. Thinner or solvent – know what to look for What's the difference between a thinner and a solvent? Not much. The thinning capacity of a product refers to its affect on the consistency of the paint or lacquer with which it's mixed. Solvency refers to the capacity of a substance to break down the resins and binding agents in paint and lacquer. This affects consistency and drying time. The faster a solvent leaves the paint (by evaporating), the faster the resins and binders will act to se

Hi, batana. Speaking about weapons or ordnance at large, my advice would be: - paint wings and noses - mask them - paint the final colour. On a round tapered object (a nose, a tail cone and so on) it is always better to mask on the smaller side, if possible, so the tape can adapt on the surface really close to the line you have to follow. Always better a first mask with a narrow tape stripe and than protect the rest with larger. OK it is time consuming, but what is not time consuming in our hobby? Oh, and do not forget colored decal stripes; they come handy on drop tanks and similar.

Hi, m52tub28. Look for plexiglas or polycarbonate tube. Something like that. http://www.plexiglas-shop.com/IT/it/gruppi...tvmaegd8pg.html or http://www.theplasticshop.co.uk/polycarbon...-od-3569-0.html No problem with epoxy, primers or paints, Regards Euge

Hi, B-17 guy. I made an experiment with Future and an European Future-similar product (LIDL Market W5 Floor Care – original German "W5 Bodenglanzpflege"). I added some drops of dish soap with a high content of tensioactives (surfactants). These agents reduce the surface tension of the Future and the result is a duller finish. Of course this mix decreases the self-leveling proprieties of the Future. It is impossible for me to suggest a correct Future/dishsoap ratio, because it depends on the concentration of the surfactants in the dishsoap. Sure you have already used other flat finishes

Hi, IrishGreek. You can squeeze some Tamiya putty or similar into some pieces of plastic food film wrap and use them as dispensers as the chefs do with cream on cakes. If it cures you may soften it with liquid cement. Regards Euge

Hi, Kev Thanks for the information. Very tricky task, but your hands seem to be digital controlled. Euge

Don't know if it could help, but in this pic the flaps seem fully lowered. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/comm...neering-kau.jpg Otherwise in this page, if you scroll down, you find this name: Don Schmenk. He has been instructor and there is his e-mail. http://www.aviastar.org/air/usa/na_trojan.php Regards Euge

Marvelous work Kev67. I'm impressed by the engine, but much more by the cockpit frames. May I ask if are they cut out from a vac-form part or single pieces glued together? They are not painted on clear, aren't they? Regards Euge

Here is the photo I promised. The metal finish is SNJ powder on bare plastic. The weathering is pure fantasy. The exhaust stain is made with the shadow with its applicator, the oil dirties on the aileron with the black eyeliner pencil and some passes with the cotton swab. The panels are postshaded with water thinned pencil. Unfortunately the flash caused reflection in the aileron area. Regards Euge

Hi twhite80. Try flat cables used in personal computers or other electronics equipment Also electronic supplies stores sell micro wires for printed circuit boars. Insulated wires for solenoids are another source of easy-bendable wires in various sizes. Regards Euge

Those work perfectly on every paint. I've been using for years on railroad cars as well with a delicious rust effect. Now I buy them in those 1€ stores that usually sell Chinese stuffs. Also eyeliner pencils work great for oil stains. Tried last week on a model of a friend of mine I have to disassemble. I'll try to take a photo this evening. Just not buy expensive items, otherwise your wife will steal your weathering set. Regards Euge

Funny! I'm converting a 1/72 Heller DC-6 B into a DC-7 C so I made the molds for the cowlings too, but… in the wrong scale. http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr204/7...ginecowling.jpg The F4U had the P&W R 2800 engine that is close as dimensions to the R 3350. The two cowlings are realy similar. May be someone can make a copy for you, or find an aftermarket if there is. Regards Euge