72linerlover

Those work perfectly on every paint. I've been using for years on railroad cars as well with a delicious rust effect. Now I buy them in those 1€ stores that usually sell Chinese stuffs. Also eyeliner pencils work great for oil stains. Tried last week on a model of a friend of mine I have to disassemble. I'll try to take a photo this evening. Just not buy expensive items, otherwise your wife will steal your weathering set. Regards Euge

Funny! I'm converting a 1/72 Heller DC-6 B into a DC-7 C so I made the molds for the cowlings too, but… in the wrong scale. http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr204/7...ginecowling.jpg The F4U had the P&W R 2800 engine that is close as dimensions to the R 3350. The two cowlings are realy similar. May be someone can make a copy for you, or find an aftermarket if there is. Regards Euge

Are you close to this place? Euge

Hi, Rhinolover. The Alclad website lists Future as adequate primer for regular m.f. Swannymodels.com doesn't agree: look here. Scroll to Alclad Rule #1 My opinion (and experimented): Future makes a very strong cover and it will be lacquer resistant; so lacquer resistant that Alclad itself has difficulty to stick on. So no compatibility problem in the proper meaning, but may result fragile on the touch. Personally I'd apply alclad on those parts, mask them, apply Future and remove masks as last task. If Future is already laid down, go with it, but be careful managing the model. Regards E

Hi, catfan. You are thinking to a radial engine cowling. Aren't you? I see two possible solutions. 1st Wooden master used as male mold for external thermoforming. You can make the cowl flaps, if any, with thin plasticard. 2nd way Plastic rigid tube for electric cable protection. Chose the diameter closest to the minimum diameter of your cowling and add milliput or other compound to reach the largest one. If necessary carve inside for an adequate thickness. Cowl flaps: see above. Sure there are other topics regarding this, and many expert modelers have already done something similar. R

Hi AVN, welcome by me too. Exactly what I would do. Just make some copies of your windshield decal so you can use to check the accuracy of your tooling. Be careful that each frame matches the edges of the reconstruction, with particular care for the main front and the first of each side. Those windows are the most important to characterize the entire front section of the plane. Regards Euge

Hi, UKPonchoMan. I normally plan what I have to cut and make a 2D drawing with a CAD program. Print all on a self adhesive paper and stick it to the plasticard. Than cut with a sharp blade (Xacto #11, normally) and a steel ruler. Sometimes for single pass cuts I prefer a regular cutter. If you follow that way, be careful to choose a low tack adhesive paper, for obvious reason. Regards Euge

I'm quite out of my element here, but I'd like to share my thoughts. The photo here shows a two tone hellcat. As you see, the panel lines are way less visible in the blue area than in the white (or pale blue) one. So I think your plan will work well from "Normally" through "lines". I'd exclude "However". Perhaps you'll be able to play with the clear coat from gloss to flat if you really think it could otherwise look so monotonous. Regards Euge

Hi, Ercan. Welcome aboard. There aren't dumb questions, but only dumb replies, and mine could be. I'm not a Iawata user, but as far as I know the Eclipse series is a dual action airbrush, so in a certain way you have properly operated. The first portion of the trigger movement provides the airflow, the second the paint. Try to vary one factor at a time: pressure, flow regulation, distance from the object to be painted and thinner ratio. Most suggest: pressure: 10-20psi thinning: milk consistence. If you're using acrylic, be advised that it dries quickly on the tip, so can clog the nozz

Here is an interesting book by a dear friend of mine Jodie Peeler: DC-9-MD-80 Squadron Signal Here is another one Douglas-Twinjets Beside this, be aware that the Aurora Kit is a DC-9 10 series and the –30 series is longer and has increased wing span. Stretching a double lobe fuselage is not that easy and the kit doesn't reproduce the "lobe crease" at all. I'd consider revising the project but this is at you choice. Regards Euge

Hi, zishelix. I'm afraid the only aftermarket producer for that kit will be your friend himself or you. I have one that I hoped to stretch to a –30 but I gave up. There is an alternative in 1/72 from Welshmodels that's expensive, but I think it is worth every penny of its price, since previous experiences. I will bleed out some money for the –30 version, when available. Regards Euge

Yea! I wrote "music" just to mean that. Regards Euge

Probably a different type but the engine was a Pratt & Whitney R-1830, so this could help. Regards Euge

Hi, peebeep. What a beauty, man! Sorry I've seen only now, It seems so real and alive that if I turned on the loudspeaker of the PC I could hear the Bristol Pegasus engine noise (music), I guess. Regards Euge

Nylon is really hard to glue if not impossible, so fishing wires aren't suitable for antennas. Other drawback is that it is very temperature sensitive, so you will cut to the proper length in a warm day, glue it and find it detached in a cold one since it shrinks and increases the stress where glued. Beside the stretched srpue, there is an alternative: it is roving. They are not twisted tiny synthetic fibers made of carbon, Kevlar or fiberglass (in decreasing money value). You can get them in RC modeling shops or online. It can be glued with CA or epoxy. You'll find that it is a good investme

Hi nachowan, All what you find to balance the model can work. Of course, if you use an high specific weight material, you take less space. Just use a strong glue (epoxy recommended) to avoid your ballast running along the fuselage I have only twice filled windows for custom made models. 1st time: -glued inside a 1,5 mm thick styrene stripe, also in pieces where the fuselage tapers- -filled from outside with milliput and smooth sanded 2nd time: -scotch tape outside the windows -poured inside polyurethane resin -when removed the tape, some puttying and smooth sanding Another way (never

Hi nachowan and welcome to the right palce! Just what I was writing when Ben Brown replied, so i start over Be only careful with fishing weights if they are made of lead. If so seal them with epoxy and don't use any CA glue, since it seems to cause bed reaction. For the never-ending windows question, you can give a look here. Regards Euge

Hi, SirRoberto and welcome aboard. I wouldn't bend down the two wings parts separately or you run the risk to get the lower one protruding the upper. The internal spear (incredibly long task) doesn't solve the above mentioned problem. I confess you that I've read a lot of times your post and the only thing that comes me in mind is: - reduce the thickness of the plastic inside of both upper and lower halves in order to weaken them, especially where the wing begins to bend down (approx by the external engine) - join the parts with tape and put some lead sheets on the outer section as closed

Hi JackMan, Except for Tamiya glue (green cap) and putty (orange cap) just only in specific situation, I make glues and putty by myself. - Melted sprue in Trichloroethylene and a little of cellulose thinner (lacquer thinner) that retards evaporation, in various thickness used as glue or putty. The Trichloroethylene is just the remover used in dry-wash shops; we find it in Italy in small amounts in the pharmacy shops. The compound you get is homogeneous, shrinks quite a lot but makes a really strong bond. - Pure acetone when the the parts are both really flat. (I use it for heavy grooved ti

Sorry guys, but we have a member from Trumpeter: Song. Why don't ask him? Regards Euge

Hi, Machinegun21, I'm not a big expert, but ARC is a great website: Panel lines Weathering Hope this helps If you have further questions, the guys here are really specialists. Regards Euge

Hi, Dan I'd suggest you to have a look to the "Tools 'n' Tips" section of the site. Here are the specific links: http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1...Kwan/tnt080.htm http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1...Pino/tnt065.htm http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1...cker/tnt032.htm In my opinion the gloss coat (every brand) on the decal before the flat one is required depending of the quality of the decal itself and how even it went down. But if you plan to make weathering with oils you have to gloss coat the decals too. In the real thing exhaust stains or dirty don't respect

Awesome build, Igor! Amazing work on the wing structure. Those landing gear legs appears as a magician has scaled them down from the original with a touch of magic wand. Regards Euge

Sorry, Spitfire88, but I wrote about Humbrol, because you told that Alclad II wasn't available near you and thought generally Humbrol was. Now you write that you can get Alclad II. So: how is it? No doubt: go for Alclad! Otherwise, Tamiya AS12 Bare-Metal straight from the can. Euge

This is the Blanik I spoke about in my previous post. Unfortunately the canopy was broken in a contest and repaired by a guy with superglue that fogged it. The shine of the finish is more visible on the top of the fuselage. Regards Euge