72linerlover

Hi Spitfire88 Since you are going for your first NMF, why don't consider the easiest way: UMBROLL Silver 11? Ok it isn't a real aluminum, it's not so amazing as Alclad II, but there are many pretty nice done models with this technique. I made a scratch built L-13 Blanik sailplane in 1979 (or so) and turned out acceptable (hope to take a photo this evening). This is my recipe: - Light spray several misty coats of 50:50 thinned UMBROLL Silver 11 - When truly dry rub the model with a little amount of toothpaste and a cotton swab, but do not use any other polishing compound. - Mask some pan

Hi Phantom ordie, I used a technique that is a collateral effect of improper painting or primming. I've seen something similar done somewhere in this forum with a pretty good result on a Cruise missile. Put some thick tape in the place where your line has to be restored. If it is possible after the line, since many fore panels overlap those behind (so as upper panels overlap lower and internal overlap external, at least in non very recent aircraft). Brush on unthinned paint and let truly cure. Sand gently and remove tape. If occurs (and often does) that you have undamaged line around, I th

Thank you, ESzczesniak, I'll give it a try on a test fuselage. Regards Euge

Hi, Eric2020. Does your technique work both with enamels and acrylics? I mean: does the "white glue-dish soap mix" resist to both thinners? Thanks. Regards Euge

Hi, ESzczesniak, just to be sure I have right understood: you lay down the tape outside the fuselage and then you pour the resin from inside, I guess. And this is done before gluing the halves together, isn't it? What confidence have you that the "die cutter" has the proper shape and size? And how do you line up all masks in the proper position? Could you post some photos of the final result? I'm very interested in this technique for a future project. Thanks. Regards Euge

Hi Isaac That exhaust is really nice. Ok the engine has never been started up, but… why always represent aircraft with a heavy life on their shoulders (… wings)? At this point you may shave some pastels like blue, brown, red and pure black graphite pencil and try drybrushing the powders. Could this be of help? Regards Euge

According to the period they may vary, but this could be of help. http://www.flickr.com/photos/nostri-imago/...966991/sizes/l/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/poisonbabyfood/409258667/ and just for some ideas: http://www.turbosquid.com/3d-models/airpor...3d-model/493006 If you are curious http://www.victorygse.com/equipment1/baggage/index.php http://www.charlatteamerica.com/site/main/home.html You may also try to contact this industry http://www.mallaghan.co.uk/products/index.aspx I'm sure I have other pics somewhere, but can't find out at the moment. I'll keep on searching. Regards E

I have some future rebottled in Italy by a local supplier. (Paid a bunch - 250 cc). It is 2 years old and preserved as gold in the dark. It still works for transparencies, but I don't use it as gloss coat. Some minor yellowing appears in the bottle, but doesn't affect the parts. I don't know if it is the old or new formula but DIETHYLENE GLYCOL MONOETHYL ETHER is common to both. This is the most volatile ingredient thus its vapour tension is the lowest. That's one of the reason Future dries quick and cures more slowly. The pressure inside a bottle is the atmospheric one that was when it

Here you go for inlets http://www.airliners.net/photo/Hamburg-Air...-430/0334363/L/ See this topic for exhausts http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index....howtopic=195761 I' think he's going for a –400 series, since RR were used on that 707 only, as far as I know. Regards Euge edited for missed link

Yes. But I'm afraid that they aren't really pipes: they could be some ovals in the radial directions. I've never seen the Minicraft –420 engines but I' wouldn't bore that much in such a scale. In any meaning of the verb. Regards Euge

Hi Sky303. The exhaust type is the so called "daisy petal", so the photo that oldHooker has posted explains a lot, but that is a Pratt and Whitney JT4A. (707-200 series made for BRANIFF and 707-320). If you need further information take a look to the following links where the RR Conway is represented. http://www.airliners.net/photo/Geminair/Bo...-430/1475998/L/ http://www.airliners.net/photo/Geminair/Bo...-430/1160573/L/ http://www.airliners.net/photo/RDC-Marine/...-441/0429131/L/ http://www.airliners.net/photo/Hamburg-Air...-430/0255453/L/ Regards Euge

There's no surprise in a release delay by a cottage industry. Without Welshmodels we couldn't be here discussing about many interesting 1/72nd scale airliners. I'm also waiting for the dc-9 for a long time. Our hobby is an exercise of patience and a cottage industry is more a mission than a real business. I have no connection with Welsh, but I ensure you that producing a kit isn't that easy. I did it for years back in the 80s' and I understand the effort they put into. It worst when a big factory plans a release date that's really wrong. Regards Euge

Hi Ajed1 Welcome back in this mad gang. After all experts' suggestions, I'd add my advise regarding sand sticks: Instead of buying several grades stick that when used are to throw away, you can: - take some plasticard strips (say 1,5 mm thick), of the wide you need (3 trough 7 – 10mm). - lay on some double adhesive tape - than a piece of sanding paper (wet and or dry) of the grade you guess necessary - refine with a sharp blade. Repeat with several grade of sanding paper and with several sticks' wide. When used start again. Large sanding paper sheets are cheaper than a sanding stic

Hi Lim, Enamel gray (testor, humbrol*) isn't that bad. When truly dry it can be smooth sanded and really putty resistant, if you need to rework some areas. In other situations, follow David's advice * Humbrol: pay attention to its quality: the formula has probably changed and lot of people complain about. Regards Euge

Hi Frankhenrylee. We in the northern region of Itlay in the Padana lowland have misty climate too. And not only in this season but also in summer, that makes often unsupportable the warm. So the best paints would be water based acrylic colors, but not always I use them. To avoid moisture problem I use a high pressure line from compressor to a tank rated at 45-50 psi. This tank is made of steel and partially releases warm. From this a tube is divided in two: one branch goes to the airbrush with a manometer, the other to a valve that is hand adjustable, discharges the air in the room and provi

Hi Andrewvft, Somewhere in this forum there is explained a good technique (can't find out at the moment) used by many members and I have been using for years too. As mlicari says. - Paint the hub of the proper color and go further on a little part of the tyre. (brush or airbrush, on your wish) - Let it truly dry. - Brush paint the tyre with over-thinned paint, just touching the tyre near the hub and not stroking: capillarity action will carry the paint around the hub in a perfect circle. - Let dry. - Repeat as many times as you need to get the right coverage. - Go on with the rest of t

Hi xavi84, From your topic I understand you have to cast resin, but can't understand if your mould is made of silicone rubber or resin itself. When you speak about resin, do you mean polyurethane resin or epoxy or what? As far as my experiences I can tell you that: Silicone moulds + polyurethane resin: limited run, single or double shell, relatively easy, reasonable undercuts = no release agent. Polyurethane resin moulds + polyurethane resin (not advisable, but could work): easy forms, no undercuts at all, limited run: release wax polished. A layer of Poly Vinyl Alcohol. Polyurethane res

An ammonia based cleaner is OK, but washing your brush with water and soap after use, is enough. Regards Euge

Excuse me sirs; just a thought. The thinner evaporate at a certain pressure in a stated time. If we had to lower the pressure in an almost vacuum box? Not total vacuum, but just plugging the intake of the airbrush compressor. Never tried though, I'm never in a hurry when modeling. Regards Euge

I second all has been said above. Just remember to avoid maskol or similar ammonia based liquid masks that will melt Future (that contains ammonia) Regards Euge

Hi, shake zula the mic rula, That's the way I was used go in order to restore damaged raised panel lines. You may fix the problem by rubbing tooth paste (not the gel type) as rubbing compound. Wash with water and soap. Hope this helps Regards Euge

Hi, khmerog. I guess you are going to put decal on the model. For this you need a gloss finisch, than lay down the semi glos. Regards Euge

You are welcome, Supertom, for the scale calculations. I recommend you not to mix Alclad II with anything. Never tried Testor. Alclad II Chrome is really shiny per se. I painted Chrome at the work some pieces of a prototype lamp that will be steinless steel and it came really well. The Alclad website gives tips for mixing and not mixing. Euge

Hi Supertom 1/72 to 1/48 >150% 1/72 to 1/32 >225% (1/48 to 1/32 >150%) Euge

Hi Trevor Although it is really rough, the Mach2 DC-4 is the best kit among the others (Mach2) I know: Caravelle and Viscount. One good feature is the correct shape of the bottom line of the rear fuselage and perhaps the incidence of the horizontal tailplanes. These are wrong in the Heller kit. Seeing the fuselage in side elevation the mentioned bottom line is an almost continuous curve from the trailing edge of the wing to the tail tip; in the Heller kit there's a little fillet behind the trailing edge and a straight line from here to the tail tip. The incidence of the horizontal tailplan