72linerlover

I totally agree with you Kev, both for Caravelle quality and Welsh 737 price, but since I know myself, I’ll bleed out some money for the announced DC-9 30. Probably the “no one’s land†or the intersections between the civil an military purposes of similar airframes could be the way for model manufacturers to satisfy modelers’ dreams. Just a thought. Euge

Hi airliner lovers. I think, or better, I'm pretty sure, the reason is the little market they have. The technical reason is poor since there are some bombers in 1/72 or even in 1/48 scale that are bigger than a 707 or than an A330. The price also would not be so high if they were sold in the same numbers as military aircraft are. Now that I've on the way a DC-7 C and planned a 707, I'm going to build a special case just for them and others. People prefer to have many 1/144 scale liners than less 1/72 they don't know where to put into and this is a logical point of view. The liners Kev67 m

Hi, all Sometimes it happens that some questions reappear periodically: Which is the reducing ratio between 1/48 and 1/72 scales? How to get a dimension in scale? And so on. Apart of the traditional method, using a calculator, I use an Excell (or Open Office calc as well) spreadsheet I have configured with some formulas. If any is interested, it is free downloadable here: http://rapidshare.com/files/260606024/conversions.xls.html If the 10 free downloads expire, please pm me and I'll send it directly. Regards Euge

The welsh is a 720 (not B. There is another listed as 720B but with no image.) That's OK for AA in the early period for aircraft delivered until end 1960. Beginning from July 1961 they were converted in 720 B Beginning from February 1961 all new delivered 720 were native B variant As regards using the welsh 720 for a 707-123B, you're on the right way, since one of the important feature is the wing glove. As regards the other features David mentions, you have enough plastic in the minicraft kit. I'd stand by for the 707-123; perhaps in the future someone will do something useful. (no rumor

Don't' want to overtake David that is much more expert than me, but you're waiting for an answer. This is just my opinion: 720 welsh - OK 120 revell awacs – is a 1/139 scale, no lobe crease, probably wrong fuselage length, only two (inside) correct engine pylons. The -100 (and Braniff -200) series generally had 4 turbo compressor humps even if the external were empty 120b mincraft polecat/welsh 720 kit bash – OK, but you have to shorten the minicraft fuselage or stretch the welsh one. Check the vertical tailplane high. 320c minicraft polecat – OK Check out what kind

Hi JB, Once I placed some strips of painted decals inside the canopy (1/72). Note: Only at the edge of the vacuum formed canopy. The tubolar internal frame is plastic. Could it work? Regards Euge

Hi, CivyPilot79, and welcome I'm sorry I don't know the kit you mention, but I guess the metallic part could carry the little stress of bending. Nevertheless I tell you how I've always made actuators, when not included. Take a piece of unifilar (or monofilar) electric wire used in electronics Remove the insulation plastic sleeve and replace it with a plastic tube you may find in the Plastruct or Evergreen sortiment. Your actuator is almost ready, just add the pivots or brackets you need. Most of this tiny section wires are chrome colored, so… Hope this helps Can't be of help for

Got it! Fantastic article. Here it is Euge

Hi You can't ever say when a difference is enough to put effort in multiple building. Probably, comparing –320C to –320B (not Adv) fuselages you get the impression that the first is longer because of the lack of the ventral fin. That's just my thought. The –320C and -320B Adv are closer each other than to a 320B. Only the engines used in some -320B Adv make the difference with larger additional intakes on the cowling. It's though true, on the other side, that those engines equipped also B variants, so… only the airline, the age, the location and, probably, the mo

Hi, Living Legend. I can't swear of, but: -no more ventral fin -new style nose gear door -one more section of leading edge flap (Krüger flap) inboard of the inboard engine. Note the 320C is not a developement of the 230B Adv; this came later. Regards Euge

Hi, Jhon. Dont't be afraid: read carefully this. "Fly by book" and you'll be surprised by how nice alclad works. It's not that difficult. Regards Euge

Hi, Scalebowler, I'd be glad to help you, but I don't have any idea of what kind of air stair are you thinking to. You sure know that with the DC-3 has been used a huge variety of stairs. Could you post a picture? Seeing your picture in the "airliner section" about the tail gear, I'm sure you'll have no difficulties building a stair. I have a DC-3 on the way too, even if I'm concerned in another project at the moment. Regards Euge

Hi gharlane, As far as it is possible, cover the area to be scribed (or the whole model) with a coat of good enamel before scribing. A needle chucked in a pin vise works perfect on curves, but X-acto # 11 blade is unbeatable for straight paths. Regards Euge

Hi, Hans Few days ago I came across a beautiful 1/32 biuld of the F-107: http://www.hyperscale.com/2009/features/f107a32fm_1.htm There aren't visible cockpit details, but you can try to enter in touch with that guy. Schönen Tag Euge

Hi marvin20, it seems that all problems begin from the plastic if the primer comes off. There is no chemical way to remove Alclad without damaging plastic; you may try to use a collateral effect of the tape: Stick a strong tape on and remove quickly, it had to strip away Alclad and primer. Degrease the bare plastic before priming and start over. In addition Alclad requires an enamel base over the primer. Take a look here: Good luck Euge

Ha Ha! Good suggestion! The vertical ballast is placed where seated the flight engineer between two bulkheads, fortunately not visible from outside. Euge

Hi, all Normally, as far as it is possible, I prepare some lead sheets, degrease and clean them with alcohol, glue them in a pack with epoxy and seal around with epoxy too. Then fit into the recesses I prepared before and glue again with epoxy. Better epoxy than CA because it fills every gaps and doesn't create fumes. More health for your model and for you. Regards Euge

Many people do wiith good results. Never done myself. Pyton_61, for sure I'll try your way. Sorry I'll be abroad in the week-end. I'm leaving tomorrow. You know.... Zelweg Airpower 2009. Regards Euge

Hi Pyton_61 First of all let me say welcome with us. As you can see I'm relative new to the forum, even if I have something like 40 years modeling behind me. Your technique sounds fine. I've never used the Mr Masking Sol, but Humbrol Maskol. I make something similar as you, using a thin flat brush. Since Maskol is ammonia based, I thin it with a little ammonia and it lays quite well over the transparencies. The only advise is to lay down side per side, because it becomes more liquid. I prefer the brush instead of your tool because it makes as a "shock absorber" if you don't go perfectly al

Thank you for your kind words, toadwbg You're right, I didn't consider. Regards Euge.

Hi graves_09, I've never done before, but could it be an idea? Cut a piece of tube and glue inside the part that is used for siphon feed and use in gravity feed position. Please forgive the rough drawing. Regards Euge

hi, eren_777 Like other subjects, this could require a tutorial, but: - the smaller amount of filler you use, the better result. - the more time you spend carefully adding filler just where is needed, the easier and faster sanding. - mask with tape the area around the gaps - stick with double side adhesive tape various grade of wet sandpaper on styrene strips of the proper size for your urpose and use them in sequence from the lower to the higher, always wet. And … if possible, avoid using filler for large gaps. Was just searching for the link Hawkeye's Hobbies had posted above. Rega

Before decal a gloss coat is always needed. Toothpaste helps to prevent bleeding before masking. Regards Euge

Hi Giacomo, I've been using military toothpaste for a long time with the best results. Find out someone in the army and ask him for that. Also useful for polishing matt paints, enamels or acrylics. Regards Euge

Hi Bob, could this help? Regards Euge