72linerlover

It's a great day today as every day someone comes back to modeling. Welcome Frankhenrylee. As Thegoodsgt says, Tools 'n' Tips forum is magic. Also visit Tools 'n' Tips section of http://www.arcair.com/ and http://www.swannysmodels.com/index.html Beside this, try always to have fun in modeling; good results will come consequently. Accept suggestions, but experiment by yourselves too and you'll find you own way. Happy modeling Regards Euge

Hi RedHeadKevin In my 30 years scratchbuilding and master/mould making I have experimented several techniques, depending on project and his purpose. So it's difficult to head you up, ignoring the model and the size. Anyway I can understand, it is going to be a large one. Please forgive my rough English. I'd suggest a balsa core. This could be the process: Fuselage (I suppose it is an airplane, at least) 1- carve in two halves (left + right, normally, but top + bottom could work) always joined with position plugs, but not glued. Dimensions should be scaled down by the thickness of the cov

He wrote me this mornig: " Regard MD-80: APU (RAM-NON RAM APU AIR INTAKE )" Euge

Hi, Barney I would avoid mixing balsa and styrene as far as possible. Once you have carved your wing, place on the upper and lower surfaces some thin wood profiles you can find in a hobby shop wit a good ship department. These are your ribs. You may have to sand a little to reduce both the thickness and the wide. Seal with cellulose varnish an sand smooth again. Cover the structure with the light Japanese model paper that is still used for flying models only laying another coat of the same varnish. Do not blend the ribs with the balsa surface before covering with paper; the paper itself w

Hi, haneto. Take a look here: http://www.westway-aircraft-models.com/8.html Just scroll to the middle of the page. It is a custom made, but they probably have the moulds. You can try to ask if the unassembled parts are available. It will take time to build up a compete model, but... Regards Euge

Hi, Fabio, make a member search choosing: "begins with" and type: jetbl He is an almost former Alitalia pilot: you know... Alitalia-CAI situation. If you have troubles, I'll pm you his e-mail. You can also try to find out a nice book by Jodie Peeler: DC-9 and MD-80 at the gate - In Italy Hoepli - Milan. Ciao Euge

Hi, Fabio Uhm, something hydraulic... but not oil or something clean; yow see the position. There is a friend of mine Menber of ARC - Jetblast - that is expert in Alitalia aircraft. PM him and he will be happy to help you. Regards Euge

Hi, airliner builders, I can't figure out why injection kit makers don't cast clear styrene fuselages. They do cast clear cockpits as separated parts. The process could be more expencive, probably due to a required smoother finish of the moulds. The clear plastic could be a more sophisticated stuff, but this way anyone will be free to chose his own technique. Aftermarket decal makers could provide cabin windows masks too. Regards Euge

Thank you, Armando. Saludos

Hi all friends, A friend of mine has a problem. He is a registered member of ARC Forum but for some reasons he cannot open a new topic, so I do it for him. He needs an used 1/72 Hasegawa F-102. It could be a waste kit or something forgotten somewhere in your scrapyard. If you have, please send a pm to "jetblast". Thank you. Regards Euge

Really I don't mix the pencil shavings. When the paint is dry I rub it with the pencil powder, with a cotton swab or a brush for small parts. Regards Euge

That's the way! Really I prefer to mix flat black with aluminum in a variable ratio according to the shade you need. Than the pencil treatment. I never bought a gun metal color. Sometimes a gloss black (always mixed with aluminum) works too, under particular situations; in this case the pencil treatment is much shorter. Regards Euge.

Hi TheRealMrEd I'm not a big expert of the Sea Dart, but to find a good enamel-decal match I'd spray a white decal sheet with the yellow enamel you're going to use. Done a lot of times and works, just be light. Regards Euge

http://' target="_blank">Hi, Taylorde. Difficult to say in general, but in the situation you mentioned I'd use 5 minutes epoxy glue. It makes no fumes, the bond is strong and a little elastic too. 5 minutes are really a short time, but it is not prudent to hold the parts by hand: better to prepare some help templates, check, double check the position and let them work for you. Use the lowest amount you can. To have a less viscose glue, thin the mix with some drops alcohol. It takes a bit longer, but you can better control laying it down. As for the alcohol/glue ratio, ehm… make some te

Hi, all Let me say that the idea is pretty intriguing. Everyone of us has something to learn and something to teach. The best would be if it could be a series of "in progress" articles. Each redactor has to be responsible of its own, so suggestions and implements could be sent to him (her) and the article could be revised, always by the same (otherwise you run the risk to make a TnT duplicate). As regards the format, PDF is OK. If you don't have a PDF creator or MS Word, remember there is a free alternative on the Web called "Open Office" that includes a PDF creator. Just google "Open Offi

Hi Supertom, If you have access to a vacuum box, put the part into and switch on the pump. Less external pressure makes the glue evaporate quickly, increasing the evaporation tension. If not, just wait and be sure the part lies in a rest position. Never tried to put the part in a bag and than in the freezer, but I'm afraid, the low temperature will extend the evaporation time. BTW, how is it going with your B36 mixliner? Euge

Hi, Commodore Sure you have seen above the "University of Scratchbuilding" and "chapeau" to the professor. You have not to discourage. That could be your target in the future. I'd simply suggest you to try making what you can, considering your documentation, the way you can. This forum is full of tips about. I'll speak about the instrument panel. Your subject (very interesting one) had probably round instruments directly inserted in the panel round holes, so "the square flange method" could be unuseful. You'd better prepare two identical thin white styrene panels: the background one wi

Hi, sv51macross. Perhaps you have missed my answer some days ago: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index....howtopic=176127. Could it work? As for starting kits I'd recommend to visit this web site. http://www.bare-metal.com/Mold-Making-Resi...tarter-Kit.html If you have other questions regarding casting, please feel free to ask. Regards Euge

Hi, ChuckChuck, let me say:welcome. As per my opinion you have already collected too much information and (I'm sure) well stored in your mind. With a big memory effort, I remember when I started in the age of 8 and my teacher (father) followed my builds giving instructions when necessary. So, following Hawkeye's advice, do enter in touch with other modelers and try new techniques step by step; you will find your personal way. Among your questions, one is missing: will I have fun? I say: sure! If this is your first target. I hope this will help like a painting or sanding guide. Regards

Hi Juanjo, I regret for yesterday's promise, but the (very old) magazine I was thinking to, was about the Falcon Guardian. I'll keep on searching anyway Regards, Euge

Hi, Juanjo Is it the military version, isn't it? Drawings are always hard to find on the net, but let me rummage among my old magazines and I'll tell you more tomorrow. Meanwhile, this is interesting (not all links work) Regards, Euge

Hi,sv51macross, I'm not sure I have understood correctly what you're going to do, since I'm not English native, but since your post has already 38 views and no answer, I'll try to tell you something. If you need to make a copy of a part and work on it to get a new proper shaped one, you need to make a mould of that area. I'd do as follows: 1.Make a ridge of plasticine around the area you want to copy 2.Get a wax based mould release agent and lay it down on the actual part (let's call "master"). Polish with a cloth. Pay attention: many of these stuffs are corrosive for styrene, so seal th

Hi, Bobster and welcome. You can't figure out how much I love that fascinating lady, but my dream to build one will remain for long time. According with Jennings, I invite you to take a look here. http://www.internetmodeler.com/2000/may/fi...oks/kmc_727.htm Regards, Euge

Hi, David. As regards the seat's color you may take a look here. http://www.seatejectcolor.com/seat/sedili/...r/mk2/mk-2h.htm Regards Euge

Hi, Weeblens If possible, I always use the cheapest way until it doesn't compromise the task. Buy a syringe and throw away the needle. Search for silicone transparent tube that RC modelers use for fuel. It is better to find it of the proper diameter to fit the syringe, but.. it's always rubber. Keep the tube length as it allows you to get enough liquid you need. Use the syringe only as a pump and not as a tank.Your pump is always clean. You'll clean up the tube with any strong stuff and it will not suffer; when too dirt, just change. Hope this helps Regards Euge