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Everything posted by 72linerlover

  1. Hi, all Scratchbuilders For me scratchbuilding is the ultimate satisfaction in modeling, at least in the construction phase. Finishing and painting are just common to an out-of-the-box model or not. The major satisfaction is that often the shape you are looking for is already inside a styrene block or a piece of wood: have just to carve away the excess of material. Many times a kit is so similar to the model you need to build (but it is another one) that few hits of tool do the trick. (I converted a 1/72 Matchbox Hawk in a SIAI 211 to make the masters for a mould) Take a look to Gabriel St
  2. Hi Doug. Questions 3-4-5, I second other advices. 1. It often depends on the kind of resin and its surface finish (mill-finish, smooth, polished…). Superglue works better on very smooth surfaces. Rough surfaces soak it up, but are good for epoxy. What I feel to tell you is generally: large joints = use epoxy small parts = use Superglue small parts to large = use superglue if not structural. Both glues don't need to be applied on both surfaces: their bonding effect isn't due to melting resin (as for styrene) but to chemical reaction. 2. 5 minutes are really 5, but 5 minutes epox
  3. The following tips are intended for male master vacforming, but they may be not appropriate, depending on what model you are building. If you have the chance to make a silicon mould, using your canopy as master, you may pour inside epoxy resin. This has to be long catalyzing (at least 12 h) and not the 5 minutes glue. Add microballons in the mixture (5% by weight). The epoxy lasts more heat than polyurethane. Extract the part that will become your master for vacumform. Then sand it down removing the frames and reducing by the thickness of the clear plastic you are going to use, but not so
  4. Apologize, supertom, there was a typo in my email. correct is: eugeniograssi(at)fastwebnet(dot)it
  5. Hi supertom, I think it's better don't to take place in the Forum with this topic that i'm afraid has no interess for other members. So please email me at eugeniograssi(at))faswebnet(dot)it til tomorrow or at the stated adresse in my profile, next week. Euge
  6. Sorry, supertom I have only the cockpit floor in addition to the fuselage halves. The windows have gone for a DC4 somewhere in Italy and seats .. I don't remember. Euge
  7. Hi supertom, I've got the front fuselage halves you're looking for, in the yellow edition. Length approx 90 mm (3'' ½ I guess). It's a leftover part of the stretching task using two fuselages. Please let me know if it is enough or you need something more. It's your for free. I'm just curios what are you going to do with that. Euge
  8. Hi limiyc To prime or not to prime: this is the question. I generally prefer not to prime, especially in an "out of the box" build, if the kit is good. That been said, there are several reason for the opposite choice, as large scratchbuild areas, different materials (resin + styrene), kit issues, particular lacquers for finishing or when I make masters for silicone moulds. I suppose that all agree with the theory: better several thin layers than a thick one, that means almost always to stay 20 – 25 cm away from the model. When the whole model appears almost the same color, you are ready
  9. Hi all, Here I am with some pics of the in progress 1/72 DC-7 C. (if my upload worked right) Hope it will be finished, some day. Euge http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr204/72ll/test_fit.jpg test fit http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr204/72ll/wing_u.jpg stretched lower wing with wooden spear http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr204/72ll/wing_up_r.jpg upper wing with new nacelles http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr204/72ll/fuse_2.jpg modified vertical fin http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr204/72ll/fuse_r.jpg modified windows' pitch and dimensions http://i484.photobucket
  10. Interesting topic. Considering that I can spend time in modeling just only in the weekends, I have a lot of things on the way. Besides making resin parts for a friend that builds industrial and architectural dioramas, model gliders gadgets and some train wagons, I have in progress: - ITALERI + ESCI 1/72 Douglas C47 - Well, emm.. HELLER + scratchbuild 1/72 Douglas DC-7 C both to wear the old 50-60‘s Alitalia livery. This one seems to be endless, more correcting the kit issues than in the conversion itself. - WELSH Boeing 737-229 AirOne livery (just started) On the other side of
  11. Hi Mike, I’ve seen this topic only now. I run in a similar problem with the vertical fin of a 1/72 Heller DC-6. The two halves bended both towards left. The hot water process works well, but immediately after it, dip the parts in a cold water container (even with ice within). Otherwise you could run the risk to see your wings return to their warped form in a couple of days. Hope this helps. Euge
  12. Hi, LD 1.Though dimensions play an important role (and I can’t figure out how they are), my advice would be: proper glue and putty for each object. Balsa wood is well glued with white vinyl glue or cellulose glue (UHU Hart) or Titebond (these names in Italy; don’t know in your Country). Cyano works too, but you may run the risk of a not uniform joint because balsa soak up it and you don’t know where more and where less. 2.-3.If you are satisfied with the general shape, seal it all with a wood sealer: all work well. Lay it down in several light coats and sand. Only now you can prime it
  13. Right, Hawk10. I turned to the acetone because I use it for other several modeling purposes, included gluing a lot of parts. It has two advantages: 1st even in relative thick layers (say 1-2 millimeter) doesn’t develop bubbles; 2nd it is very cheap. I apply with a little strip cut out from a shaving blade; you can better control the thickness, it leaves an almost flat surface and can be easy cleaned when the mixture is dry. Euge
  14. Hi Ryan, I’m working on that Heller kit in these days for an ambitious project and have encountered similar problems, not rescribing, but cutting some parts. It depends often on the mould too fast cooling after injection. I’d follow Pigsty’s advice not extending gaps. Instead of liquid cement I use some sprue plastic (of the same kit) dissolved in acetone. The result will be not an homogeneous chemical solution, but you will find a weak paste on the bottom of your jar and some liquid on it. Use the paste as putty. Do work quickly, since it sticks a little fast. You may try to brush a
  15. Hallo to you all members of ARC. I’m new in the forum and very pleased to take part of it. I write now for an alert: RED ALERT VISCOUNT. Jennings, be careful to start the project of decal sheets about this model. Besides the issues that have been already described, there are other regarding the dimensions. The fuselage is 8 mm shorter and the curvature of the bottom tail is wrong. The vertical fin is not tall enough and its chord at least 2 mm shorter towards the tip. Also the fuselage diameter is smaller 8but not so much. The wing-fuselage fairing is in a wrong position in high (too cl
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