72linerlover

Hi, everybody. I feel as I have passed around Cape Horn since I found how much ballast is needed: 65gr. You can see the lead in the front of the fuselage. Some testing with cardboard to cut out the lead and fit in the nose. Ballast in position Balancing test with the ballast on place Now the dihedral problem. I made two woden spars with the correct angle to be glued inside the upper wing. The parts, of course, don't match the angle. Then I engraved along the outer wing joint, outside of the

Thank you, Phantom, for your comment. One of the tasks of today will be balancing. I normaly put the parts together with tape and put the aircraft on two sticks where the main gear legs have to go and find the amount of weight. The real problem will be where to put it. edit: And mine has a shorter nose than your. Regards Euge

Hi Phantom. I saw with pleasure your Caribou last week end at the beginning of the build and I was sure that a series aircraft would be finished before my prototype. Funny but true. Nice model. Regards Euge

Hallo everybody. Thak you Ray and Dutch. Not so much to be impressed of: I made just something inside so that the fuselage does not look empty. Last wednesday and today I finished the canvas seats and prepared the nets to be put inside the windows. Still have to think at how attach them, but I'll thik it over after glueing the trasparecies. Floor painted and supports done. Test fit of the seats. Seats glued on. Test fit into the fuselage. Here is how they look like from ... inside.

Thank you Ray for your comment. I've frist to say that your Cormorant came out very nice. I know the pain of red and yellow painting, and you did very well. The week end was useful to prepare some more stuff to add something inside the fuselage. I'm not going for a full interior; just what i'm afraid could be seen through the windows. The cabin floor Preparing rails for the seats Test fit of the rails into the floor Some canvas seats in test position. Hope to get back to the build next Wednesd

Hi, everybody. After a long absence from modeling and from the forums I had the chance to come back to the Caribou. So I managed to almost complete all the bits for the cockpit. A thermoformed coaming, starting from a wooden master. Also added some frames inside with styrene strips and primed. Since I was at with the primer, I shot some also here And here are the parts I have to glue together: the central sliding consolle the control columns the elevator trim wheel the

Hi everybody. After some holidays in Slovenia (beautiful land, BTW) I came back to the bench preparing some interiors for the Caribou. Cockpit in construction In order to put the seats rails in the correct position I started working on one of them, with the hope to make the other one as much as similar. Not great detail, but something more realistic as the parts in the kit (I hope) Thanks for watching Regards Euge

Thank you Ray for your comment. Some mods are required, just to improve the kit and correct the parts, other are specific for this variant. The series 100s with short nose delivered to Aeralpi were early version. (I-FALO: s/n 46) with the windows arrangement you have seen and without emergency exits and reinforcing plates on the fuselage where it meets the propeller plane. So, as always with civil aircraft, you have to look for the specific type you are going to build. Please, feel free to ask, if I can help you. Regards Euge

This is the italian side of De Havilland Canada. Aeralpi was a regional airline operating in Italy in the 60s. The kit is the Revell 1/72, reboxed Matchbox plastic, with all the issues of that edition, and many signes of the time. I will build as in the following picture taken at Cremona in those years. The kit is already started, but not too much: this is where I am now. And here is how I came to this point. After correcting some kit errors, add

Hello everybody. Spent some time for the engines replacement. New firewalls: they have to be 4 mm further back as the original, since the engines are longer. So I prepared 3 spacers to fit inside each cowling Test fit of the engine: it seems to work. Next task will be to find the proper shaft and center all parts. Thanks for watching Regards Euge

Thank you Ray. That guy did a very nice job. He managed the dihedral issue just like I planed to do. I suspect that, after the prototype stability problem, the dhiedral of the production aircraft was rised of some degrees. See the two linked pics. link1 - prototype link2 - series aircraft Not easy to find similar views. You have to look only at the upper surface to have the right impression. Anyway, the kit parts need to be corrected in both cases. No major surgery for the engine position: I started the kit with the firm intention to keep the build simpl

Thank you Ray, for your comment. I know I'm facing some surgery for the wing to correct the dihedral. The problem is in the outer section and I have a plan. As reguards the engines, I'm going to replace them since they are 18 cylinders in the kit, while they should be 14. I have some left over engines of a DC-3 that match the cowling dimensions. I'm not aware about the position of the engines you mention. I am afraid! Waiting for some suggestion from you. Regards Euge

Hello everybody. This is my first entry. A very kind guy of the dhc4and5 website provided me some information about the prototype that differs from the production aircraft for few key featrures. - shorter fuselage, approx 1,1 meters - different and shorter exhaust staks - absence of fuselage strakes. Other differences will be explained during the build. First I perepared my own glue by dissolving some sprue in acetone and lacquer tinner. Then, began to study what have I to do with the exhausts, but not yet sure about. Here is wher

Hi all Canadians and Canada enthusiasts. I'm in with two builds: - De Havilland Canada DHC4 Caribou protptype. Perhaps you know I love prototypes, since I built a Chipmunk back in 2011 for the "On Canadian Wings GB" The kit is the HobbyCraft 1/72 - De Havilland Canada DHC-6 Twin Otter 100 in the Aeralpi livery. That was a little regional airline operating in northern Italy in the 60s. The kit is the Revell reboxed Matchbox 1/72. Best regards Euge

Thank you, Sean. Really I don't run for a prize. Just want to celebrate with you all Canadians the 150th anniversary. I'll start posting in the next days. Euge

Thanks for your fast reply. The fuselage is not glued, but I agree that the built is in an advanced stage. So, I'll go and take the Caribou aut of the shelf. Regards Euge

Hello everybody. I'd like to take part to this GB, but I have a question. I have on the way an 1/72 DHC-6 Twin Otter 100. Now, I don't know how much my kit is "substantially" started, so please, let me know if I may or not. If not, I'll go for a Caribou, really unstarted at all. Thank you for your attention. Regards Euge Note: I'll remove the pcs to save space in this thread as I'll get an answer.

Hi Dave. I prefer to fill the lines with regual modeling putty or melted sprue. Since I work mainly in 1/72nd, I prime the model with a first coat of gray primer, and a second of white. Or vice versa if the final finish will be dark. Then I start scribing. Soon you'll see the underlaying color: stop there. In the pic you see a wooden master, so no melted sprue, but only putty and the two coats of primer. Regards Euge

Hi CSC. Quick answers: 1. As long as the solvent (or glue) doesn't evaporate. You can always dissolve it again, if it hardens. 2. Generally yes, it is kit's-styrene-independent. 3. N.a. More in detail: I generally use dissolved sprue as a glue. I mix 50% acetone and 50% laquer thinner and add some styrene flakes. I use the kit's styrene just to have the same color that helps me with sanding and finishing. I don't use Tamiya glue in the mix. In case of use as putty (seldom) I add more styrene to get a more dense paste. If I need to use again as glue, I add more acetone and/or th

Hi, Boz. As far as I know Equatoriana operated 707-321B, 707-321C (ex Pan American) and 720B (ex American Airlines) and they had JT3D engines, low bypass turbofan. JT4A engines were similar to JT3C used on 707-220 on a special request by Braniff. Most visible difference is in the number of the tubes in the noise suppressors. (the same used later on 707-320 - not 320B) It happens that in some Minicraft 707-300 series kit you may find JT3D or JT4-A engines, depending on the boxing. You may try to ask Welshmodels too. Regards Euge

Seen here on static display the G-AKDN Chipmunk. Link This year on 22nd of May was the 70th anniversary of first flight of the prototype CF-DIO-X The G-AKDN is almost painted as mine. (Built in 2011 for the "On Canadian Wings Group Build") Regards Euge

Don, there is an "in box review" here. The Starliner in 1/72 is one of my modeling secret dreams, but the conversion C2j mentioned is no more available and good drawings are impossible to find. So the dream will remain. Euge

Hi Don, The Welshmodels website shows in the skyliner range an 1/144 L1649 See here1649 Regards Euge EDIT: Oh, sorry, you said "injection".

Hi, Andy Boundary conditions: -acrylic -brush painting -imitating metal -various shades Solution: Citadel Mithril Silver and Citadel Chainmail. You can dope with few drops of other acrylic colors to vary the shades. Thin the paint almost 60/40 ratio paint/distilled water and paint in several thin layers. The gear housing in this page are made this way. Regards Euge

I did exactly the way you plan to go with. So I painted the hole inside clear plastic. As for the metal walls, you shan't need to paint them. If you'll use epoxy you have to more options: 1. use a special one often called "plastic metal" that has a metallic color like this. 2. add some drops of silver enamel (not acrylic nor lacquer) to a clear epoxy. Regards Euge