72linerlover

"Let's make it clear". Our friend doesn't need to attach already shaped transparent bits or fill a hole in an instrument panel. He needs to shape "on site" a glued solid piece of clear styrene. Excluding cyanoacrylate with its cons, the options are styrene cement or epoxy. Otherwise he runs the risk to detach the part at the first sanding stroke. Clear Fix is a good stuff as Crystal Clear. It takes a little longer to set and shrinks a little more. Regards Euge

Hi RKic. I found very useful the epoxy 5 min. It is clear and sticks almost all making a strong bond so you can sand and polish without fear. More than this, it doesn't hurt plastic at all. The tip lights of this 1/72 model are attached with epoxy. Not much visible in this old photo though. Regards Euge

Thank you so much, Jeff. So it make sense that the N707PA at the roll out was equipped with that "annular grille cover". - I'm lucky. Thank you also for the considerations about the turbocompressors. I was almost sure it was so, but your words are important. Now it's up to me to do things right. Regards Euge

Please, excuse me if I reopen this old thread. Is there some Boeing expert that can tell the difference between the two thrust reversers in the following pictures? Photo1 Photo2 They should be both 707-121 (pan American). In the pic from the front left is quite visible a grille, but in the other one from the bottom there is a sort of dark ring. Was it perhaps to be slid back when the reverser operated, thus uncovering an aperture? Which between the two types came first or later? T.i.a Regards Euge

I don't know: you can try to get in touch with V1 Decals. They probably inkjet print the sheets, so it would be not that difficult to change something. Regards Euge

Hi Emvar. Not that far from you, I guess. My link Not exactly a 200, but... Regards Euge

Hi, I.Martin. The Airfix kit depicts a BOAC 707-436. The -400 series is a -320-like (not -320B) The "B" makes a big difference. Different engines, different wing, different flaps and" wing-to-body" fairing, due to the added flap section near the fuselage I suggest you to take a look to the "ultimate 707 guide" you can find here. So in answer to your question I'd say: No. Certainly all could be possible, but with a lot of extra work. More than all, you don't find in the Airfix boxing the correct engines and wings for a -320B. If the windows are a must, you should buy both Airfix and Min

As Jennings said, Chris. Or, if you need something darker, go for FS 37031. You find good matches with: Testor enamel 2040 Aircraft Interior Black Humbrol enamel 182 Black Gray Tamiya XF63 German Gray. Regards Euge

Chris, I'm sorry that your question stood unanswered for so long. I'll try to give you a tip. From your post I don't understand if the masks you got are intended 1- to be used to paint the windows or 2- to mask already painted windows? (I don't think so) Case 1. Place the mask. First shot of the general color of the airframe (white perhaps) to seal the mask edges, preventing bleeding. Then, dark gloss gray. Furthermore, you can mask the bottom side of some windows and spray a color for the sunshades on the upper side. You don't need to be exact in this task. (sunshades are not closed or

Hi, Lucas. Probably Alclad Aqua are designed for the Alclad range, but I've never tested them. In my opinion the "hi shine" finishes are so nice that everything you put over will make them worst. I don't know the reason you think to seal your bmf, but if your concern are the decals, trust me, there is no need to do it. The decals adhere just fine with no silvering also without setting solutions. Look here. Regards Euge

Hi Daniel. Let me say welcome to the forum. Have you already seen here? I don't know if it is enough accurate for your purpose, but it's a start. Happy modeling. Euge

Hi, skidbuggy; what about this one? I have processed an image I found. It's small but it should work in your scale. Regards Euge

Fantastic job, Maurizio. It was a pleasure to meet you in Riccione last June the 1st. Eugenio

Hi, Swordsman. A friend of mine has been so kind to provide me the TWA boxing of the Minicraft 707 we are talking about. Well, it contains the noise suppressors for Rolls Royce engines and for P&Ws. What I have seen is that these last have 21 tubes, as I described in my previous post. So they should be for a JT3C, even if the box art claims for JT4. At this point I'm a bit confused. I've always been sure that the JT4 had a totally different noise suppressor and some photographic evidences show this fact. If I am right, you can find here what I believe are JT4 engines, even if the site

Hi, Swordsman. First of all, welcome to the best modeling forum. Not a simple question! Minicraft has for sure a –300 series 707 with jet engines (and not turbofan). The problem is that what's inside not always corresponds on what is represented on the box art. The JT4A engine had a particular noise suppressor made of an external circular row of 8 tubes and an internal 8 "petal" exhaust. Look here. I'm sure that in 1/144 injected plastic kits you'll find no exact option. Welshmodels makes good JT4A engines to be used on the Roden's 720. They are resin and appears to be correct. At the e

Hi, Mike Well, if I may add my experience, I'll tell you that when I used Evergreen microstrips I had to put much attention not to melt them, with Tamiya cement (green cup). I have to admit that I always used small sections strips and this could make the difference. Best way I found was to use my simply self made glue. I mixed 70% , 30% acetone and a mix of equal parts flakes coming from the kit plastic and from a sheet of plasticart. The amount of flakes is at your choice, depending by your tests and experience. Always applied with a thin brush with the capillarity method. In general,

Hi Sebastian. I normally use PVC or PETG. Also used acetate, but it tends to yellow in the years. There is a company not so far from you that supplies these stuff, among many other. You can try to ask for a help. Beside that, I wouldn't use the original canopy as a master for direct thermoforming. The best way is to make a silicone mould, using the original canopy, cast with polyurethane resin, reduce by half the thickness of the transparent sheet you are going to use and thermoform the new one. The result is quite good, see here, middle of the page. If you need further information, plea

Jennings, I don't know if I'm able to tell in your language my sadness and my thoughts for what has happened. Please, do really tell me what can I do for you, even if I'm so far away. Euge

Hi White Wolf. Symmetry, caliper, measuring, instruments, eyeball? What's the best way? I wouldn't know. In some occasions I did this way. Even before the first color (say on bare plastic or primer) I lay a low tack tape and draw upon the future masking line, just on one side (say the left one) and the symmetry center line. Cut along the line and put on a thin piece of plasticard. Cut the plasticard as per the drawing so I get a sort of half mask. This is the template to use to cut the tape, first on one side, than the other one. I followed this way to mask the cowling of the Auster and t

Curt, there may be a misunderstanding in the terms. What I used (long long time ago) were graphite pencils, something like these: linky I have to rummage in the basement to find a sample model of the last century. Regards Euge

Let's try to help our young friend the way he needs, hence: no airbrush. Ace Combat, I suggest you post-shading. You probably have some colored pencils around and, if not, they are cheap to buy. Choose the closest color (or colors) to what is suggested above, according with the colors of your aircraft. Use a coarse sandpaper and rub on the pencils making a mix of the powders you get. Use a q-tip to rub the powder on the model along and crossing the panel lines. You will notice that the powder will stay in the lines and will make a nice shading aside. It works both on gloss and flat finis

Hi randypandi831. I think there are no or few chemical or physical differences between hi shine and regular shades in the Alclad range, so there should be no difference in airbrushing. Only an idea comes me in mind: perhaps the bottles you used are a little old so some thinner is evaporated? I admit: it is statistically impossible that all the bottles are in the same condition, but you may try adding few drops of laquer thinner and see what happen. In addition, I'd reduce the paint flux at the minimum, than gradually open it until it spits again, than close a little back. Another point i

Thanks, Jelle. I meant to say that in the photos you can't notice many mistakes. Really I was thinking to take better images in a proper environment. Perhaps next week. Euge

Thank you, mates. I'm really happy you like the model. Your words are too kind. You know, as I always say: "objects in mirrors are closer than they appear", just to say that in photos the models are always better than they really are. Anyway that's it. Regards Euge

So, my friends, she is finished. I'd really like to thank all ARCers that helped me in this build. Thanks for having followed this thread. Here some pics. Regards Euge