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72linerlover

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Everything posted by 72linerlover

  1. My very first references were: - Airliner Tech Volume 4 - Douglas DC-6 and DC-7 Scale Aircraft Modelling: Article by Ian Huntley - June 1985 "Convert the DC-B" - July 1985 "Convert the DC-B part 2" Than a lot of surfing the net, help from friends that worked on, an Italian Aeronautics Institute and more and more. Regards Euge
  2. Thanks, guys for your kind words. So, few things to attach and I'll be at the end of the neverending story. More to come in the next days. Regards Euge
  3. Actually Citadel Mitril Silver is really shiny as it is: more shiny if brush painted than with airbrush. High diluition ratio with water lets the surface tension work great. I only once tried buffing, but to be safe you need some graphite powder that acts as lubricating agent. No idea with other compounds. @Pep: fantastic looking finish, with interesting shades. If I may suggest: lay down some semigloss clear on the wing from the leading edge to the spar, both sides. Regards Euge
  4. Ha, ha! Can someone tell Italeri how flaps work? Regards Euge
  5. Hi, airliner enthusiasts. After a long pause on this project, but not on modeling, I scratchbuilt some bits (main gear legs included) to complete the old lady. Now I only have to glue all together, put on the wheels, flaps, ailerons, rudders, and the various antennas. I promised a friend that I will display the model at an exhibition in his modeling association near Cremona (end October). I owe him. Drag braces Bits for antennas and gear actuators Test on the landing gears Best regards Euge
  6. Well, Neo, you already have made a test, so I can be only a little helpful. The problem is more how the blue paint reacts with the "Tamiya Compound", than with the further gloss coat. My only doubt is that the clear coat may not stick well if some Compound residues are left. I'd go for the white toothpaste instead of the Compound and a good wash with water. Regards Euge
  7. Hi, Dan I run into the same problem years ago and tried this method that worked fine. I sprayed a Letraset sealant on the back of the backing paper, let dry and cut the parts I needed. Then soaked them into water. The protection sheet moved before the backing in some cases. In other not and reapplied the decal itself on the backing. Trimmed the images and aplied with some diluited white glue. ("Future" was still to come in those days). Hope this helps Regards Euge
  8. Hi, buddy. Finally you came on the right place to post your builds. Bravo! Regards Euge
  9. If they will pay you for the work you'll be putting in building one properly and correcting issues, you'll become the majority actionist of Mach 2 Regards Euge
  10. You're a lucky man and modeller Dean, having her on your side. And, Jess, keep on modelling: your start is more than encouraging. Regards Euge
  11. Why don't use a silicone tube to make a flexible joint between the motor shaft and the propeller shaft? Plenty of advantages instead of difficult rigid alignement. http://forums.reprap....php?283,151801 Often done with model trains. http://cs.trains.com...94.aspx#1721794 Regards Euge
  12. Thank you guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Euge
  13. Thank you, Jelle and Anthony for your kind words. Euge
  14. Hi boz. I made some investigation myself about the Dakota, being this oldie on my to do list. First I'll tell you that is very rare to find pics of lowered flaps on a parked aircraft, but this may help. On the "douglasdc3" website there is also a Buffalo Airways aircraft. Googling "dc-3 restoration" you will find out some other interesting sites and, beside that, the net is full of DC-3 images. Good luck Regards Euge
  15. Hi guys! Not an airliner, but civilian anyway (while the DC-7 C is still waiting for metal gear legs). This is A Taylorcraft Auster IV. It is the first aircraft belonged to the local AirClub in Cremona in 1965. The diorama represents the airfield as it is today and belongs to the model association I belong to. (nuovocasc) The Auster is a 1/72 Airfix "Antartic" with the engine section stolen from a "Bird Dog" with some modification. Hope you will enjoy. Kind regards. Euge
  16. No, Shep. Don't polish clear resin parts. I don't find the process useful. Probably the first deep will not give the expected result due to some micro holes in the part, but the second will work. Just wait a day in between. Regards Euge
  17. Hi, Shep. Apply future the same way. No doubts. Probably you will need more than one deep. Some time ago I cast small windows and worked nice. Regards Euge
  18. Hi, Fly-n-hi. A modeler's eye behind a camera is worth more than any other reference. Thanks a lot for sharing. Pics saved for future builds. Euge
  19. Hi European modelers! 7 weeks to go. Check out the news on http://www.nuovocasc.it ARCers are welcome Best regards Euge
  20. Just join the two words of the title and add "dot" com Decalpaper (for laser printer): for me is the choice. Regards Euge
  21. HI oortiz. I'd take a look here I also shared some thoughts with Don per email. Physics states that only metals are conductors (so, not plastic) But, in my experience, I found that grounding a model before and during painting helps a lot. There are antistatic liquid products that may help but only outside. I still think your best option is to try grounding and gently hit the canopy with a toothpick, generating some vibration that should help your dust to fall down. Regards Euge
  22. Hi, lulldapull. It isn't a difficult nose to scratchbuild. There is a website with some drawings for an RC plane.They seems to be accurate. You either may enter in touch with Pilatus directly. They are very kind people and helped me when I asked for drawings of the PC-7, back in those days when the plane was a prototype. Good luck. Euge
  23. Hi, agelos. I used only once a gloss green Revell enamel in this build. Thinned with odorless mineral spirit. Works great. Regards Euge
  24. Hi, charlie I'm so sorry for this accident. I don't exactly know where the strut is broken but I guess, where the section changes or at least there will be a smaller section involved. CA glue works for sure, but in some cases I'd follow "the same stuff" way. Dissolve some flakes of the sprue into a glass jar with a 50-50 mix of acetone and lacquer thinner. Keep low the amount of styrene to get a mix like Tamiya liquid cement. Let it flow inside the fracture. After some 15 seconds press the parts together if you can. Let sit for 24 hours. This will of course dissolve some of the strut, bu
  25. Jeff, the news you brought are so interesting for all and there's no reason to apologies. Thank to David Hingtgen for posting that photo. It will be my construction reference. Thanks again to all gents that answered my question. Regards Euge
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