72linerlover

Great, smart, clean and detailed construction on that big plane. Congrats. Euge

Hi all. The Christmas holidays were a great occasion to make some progress with the decaling job. Hope you will enjoy. Regards Euge

I emailed Heller twice, asking for a KC-135 right air conditioner inlet. Apparently there is an automatic "email responder", since I got a "read message". But nothing more. I'll try to send a letter. Thanks Jan Regards Euge

Decaling time! That doesn't mean that I am near to finish the model, but the decals have to be on, at this stage. The only way to get things straight and symmetrical was to make some mirrored templates. It seems to have worked on both sides. Hopefully, during the next Christmas holidays, I'll get the decaling done. Merry Christmas Euge

Hey, Jelle, nice job in that cockpit. Saved the photos for further reference. Euge.

Hi, Steven. Used for many purposes and they work really well. Unfortunately they don't have natural metal shades, (or I am not aware of) and for airliners it is important. So, planning the build should also mean planning the painting sequence carefully, if you are going to use other brands and types, for natural metal parts. (read: laquers, enamels – some require specific preparation). There is also Hawkeye's Hobbies Talon Acrylic aluminium that I guess totally compatible with Gunze, but not available in Europe. Lot of people report only good experiences about those paints. So, conside

Hi, mtphotos. As far as it isn't really necessary, I wouldn't seal the model. If you get a good and smooth natural metal finish, you'll be able to decal without any preparation. If the white is really gloss, go with the decal as well. If the white is too shiny, I'd lay down (brushed or sprayed) some Future, mixed with Tamiya Flat Base X-21. (Look here) You just have to try on a white painted scrap plastic how much flat base you have to add to get the finish you need. Something else to consider is the age ('50es '60es, present days) of the airliner you are building and how you want she look

New update on the painting job. Thanks for your comments and for watching. Regards Euge

Hi, friends. The old lady is in the paint shop. Lot of masking, painting, unmasking, painting and so on. Hope to lay down the enamel base for the further aluminum next week end. Regards Euge

What a beauty, Jelle! So, between Giannutri and Lampedusa, you choose another isle. Nice nav-lights. The steered front wheels make the model really alive. May I suggest a further touch? All Alitalia DC-9 are really dirt on the fuselage tail cone, because of the trust reverses. (Perhaps they are too lazy to clean them up). Congrats. Euge

Hi Andrea. Reading your post I can only think that you used a laser printer decal paper, but I guess you are sure you used the right one. May be the ink is way different with the Epson printer. Probably the only set up you should change is "gloss paper", if any is, in the driver options. When I used to print with ink-jet printer I sprayed a thin coat of clear flat, before printing. Hope this helps. Regards Euge

Hi Jelle The Alitalia DC-9 32 is scheduled for one of the next build, even if she will wear the previous livery. Here you go. Upper wing surface: -right: both logo and registration -left: only logo Lower wing surface: -right: nothing left: registration Image1 Image2 Image3 Image4 The last one is really dark, but if you use some editing software, you will notice the registration. "Isola di Giannutri" = I-DIKW (than I-DIBX sold to ATI, but still with Alitalia livery) "Isola di Lampedusa"= I-DIBC (then I-RIBC, then I-RIFC) Enjoy your "Nine" Regards Euge

Hi, DutyCat, Testors gloss black is really "self-polished" enough as base for Alclad, but if you really need additional shine, I suggest you to use tooth paste (the white type works better). Just use it as you'd with other compounds. Than a good wash and you are ready for Alclad. Regards Euge

Hi fallingleaf Mostly: copper wire, styrene rods, stretched sprue (in huge amount). The search function in the forum returns several results typing "wiring". Just pay attention to the scale. Regards Euge

Hi Brad. I have experimented that the best results come by spraying 2 or 3 coats, but not waiting more than 5 minutes or so between them. So if you spray (say) from the nose to the tail and back to the nose on the other side, you are almost ready for the second coat. As you know, the gloss black base acts for shine – reflection effect and the Alclad for the tint, so you don't paint, but you tint the black base. I wouldn't mist Aluminium over the polished finish or you will end up with a duller appearance. Probably you have already experienced that the darkness depends on the light you are

Hi. I can't count how many other things are sold pricey for modeling and could be found cheaper in other branches. Link Regards Euge

Si vis pacem, para bellum, says an antique Latin proverb. (if you want peace, get ready to the war) So, nothing against militaries and their reproduction in scale. But airliners and civil aviation at large are "the wings of peace", so elegant, extravagant, colorful. They are memories of my youth, when my father used to bring me to the Milan airports to watch the planes. They now fascinate me with their modern technology, especially when you think they weight all those tons, carry hundreds of passengers where they want, each with his hope, story, business, love, happiness and sadness. All

-bump- Hi Phantom ordie. I'd like to help you. What kind of cockpits do you need? Military, airliner, general aviation or? I can ask my mates of the local modeling association. Regards Euge

Hi Oeren, since you speak about bubbles, I have the doubt that you shake your bottle of paint. This is not advisable. Paints have to be stirred before thinning. This makes an uniform fluid made by carrier and pigments. Use for stirring something like a coffee stick for mixing sugar or a flat piece of steel that is easier cleaned later. Coming to white specifically, it is one of the most difficult color to brush or airbrush. I achieved better results spraying it on a coat of flat aluminum or silver. Just follow the compatibility rules of different types of paints (lacquers, enamels, acryl

Hi, Jelle. Good that you brought attention to this problem again. We discussed about, in this thread some times ago. There are interesting considerations about CA-lead reactions and how to prevent them. So keep on using lead, but with some precautions. Bye Euge

It is really sad that many people have problems masking Alclad tints. I suppose that all refer to regular shades and not "high shine", since these are not maskable and non overpaintable, as per the Alclad II website. I can only say that if Alclad had to make also other colors, I'd never spray other brands any more. That said, the surface preparation is the key job. These tints are designed not to stick to the base layer, but to bind with it. So it has to be something that the Alclad solvent can attack as lacquer or enamel. These have to be sprayed using their own thinner. On the other han

Hi, friends. Although it could seem impossible, I have got to get back to this project, after another little build for the "On Canadian Wings" GB. Here some pics from the past month works, regarding the engines, the propellers and the decal. engines, propeller blades, spinners, noses, cowlings engine and cowling test assembly of the first propeller the decal artwork and some testing here and there. Thank for watching Regards Euge

Hi carrey. May be you have already seen this. Regards Euge

Hi RAIN, I used vinegar based dishwasher as setting solution in this build, with almost good results. Here in Italy is called "Rio Mela Aceto" that means that it is apple-vinegar based. There are surfactants inside too, (it is a soap, at the end) and lets the decals conform well. You can use out of the bottle. Regards Euge

Here are some pictures of the DHC-1 prototype CF-DIO-X. Hope you enjoy them. Thanks for watching. Euge