72linerlover

Hi Folks. - A brief update. Laser printed letters. Started dressing up. Some touchups are necessary on the cowling. Bye Euge

Hallo all Canadian Group builders Please, forgive my long absence due to not-modeling reasons. I found time to spend with this build in the last weeks. This is the Chippy as came out the paint shop last night. I hope to get it finished on time with the decaling and final assembly. Thank for watching Regards Euge

Really beautiful Sabre. Amazing paint job. Euge

Hallo. I have a quick update regarding the canopy. The master for the thermoformed canopy seems to work well. The transparency of the stuff is OK. Now the fight will be framing Thanks Euge

Hi, all I am a sprue fan and I use it for several purposes, stretched or not, even to prepare my personal glue, but in this case I used styrene microrods and strips to be sure of the constant section. I've seen the difference between the rudders of the prototype and the production aircraft and modified. This caused loosing the ribs detail that I have simulated with styrene microstrips. It will be covered by a special paper used many years ago for flying models. Here in one shot the cowling with the exhaust added and the new tail wheel. The front fuselage with the firewall bulkhead an

Thanks for the comments Not really. I made a resin copy of the kit canopy and I'll use it to vacform a new one. Regards Euge

Hallo, friends. I have not been posting for a long time, but working intensively on the model. Some details added on the right cockpit And to the left Some more devices Last fit test before gluing Added seats cushions Fuselage finally joined and the front instrument panel installed The rear one will be put after painting the fuselage. Thanks for watching Euge

Litvyak, don't worry about the ballast. The F-104 is not a tail seater. Many years ago I built an ESCI 1/72 F-104 and no ballast was needed. Regards Euge

Thanks, RKic. No, unfortunately I can go back to this build only next friday. The Christmas holidays will be a good chance Regards Euge

Thanks, Tony, for the advice. The panels are way different in the prototype; I didn't notice even if I knew the pic in this page. http://www.chipmunkflyer.co.uk/article3.htm. I'm going to make new IPs. Really I can't see the difference in the rudder, but will investigate more; it is already separated, so no problem to correct. As for elevators I think there is a smaller tip in the prototype, but the most relevant difference is that there were trim tabs on both sides. Thank you Euge

Hi Brent I wish I was brave enough to do a 1/32 build. Your Lysander looks fantastic. Regards Euge

What a beauty!!! Your tecnique reminds me of when only humbrol 11 was available and i polished it with powdered graphite. Good that new sophisticated paints are on the market, but better never forget the old school Regards Euge

Hi, all. Done. The structure is now completed with some paint strokes, just to understand if it is ok. New floor with the supports for the seats. Also the first attempt to the instrument panels worked well. Mounting seats and inclined bulkheads All is adapted to the shape of the interior fuselage. I still don't know what color was inside, and if some of you has any idea, I'll appreciate a lot. Thanks for watching Euge

Hallo. I was lucky last week having time to attach the oil coolers. It took a lot of time filling and smoothing because of the bad fit of resin parts, but I have to complain only with myself. The small oil cooler flaps seem to fit better. Bye Euge

Hi, mates. Actually I've never considered myself a "rivet counter" and I don't like excessive detailing. I just try to make decent models so that, when I look at them on my shelf, I can't say: I could have done it better, but I haven't. As for scratch building, in this case there wasn't alternative and, I admit, it makes fun. You know, I choose the subjects for my projects in an emotional way, and in several cases there aren't kits (normally they come on the market when I have almost finished, but this is another story). I really hope to have more time for modeling: more than those 2 or 3 h

Thank you all, for your comments. I'm sorry for the late reply, but I was busy in the weekend organizing a model exhibition in a school of my town. @Tony: no I haven't that book. I'm not going for a high detailed build: just some improvement, since the little scale and what I've got from the web is enough for the purpose. Here some updates about the build sequence of the internal structure. I have now to fill the gaps between the stringers and the frames Regards Euge

Newfoundland CL-215 !!!! Beautiful aircraft Nice livery Euge

Hi all. Since I received no negative answer, I suppose I may post the "in progress" pics. Relative surprise is that the parts fit really well together. I decided to remove the cowling from the rest of the fuselage to represent the gap between the parts. Some sanding to reduce the thickness, adding new walls and floor. Thanks for viewing Regards Euge

Hi,all. I'd like to take part to the GB with the first De Havilland Canada designed and produced aircraft to honor the Canadian industry. This chippy prototype C-DIO-X will be my build. May I? This is the old Airfix 1/72nd kit I'll start from. Regards Euge

Thanks, spruemeister and pttaa for your comments. Unfortunately I had a difficult time due to my old mother, but things are better now and I hope to come back to modeling more intensively. Regards Euge

Hi, zaxos345, As far as it is designed for wood surfaces, it could contain some surfactant to let it penetrate into the wood fibers. You may expect a less glossy finish. After tested on your paints, lay down a decal and see if there is silvering. If not, go for it. Regards Euge

Let's make it simple: real aircraft are grounded when refueling, so ground your models before painting, wiring them to a tap or something that is really grounded. Trust me: it works. Regards Euge

Hi, Tom. As clear plastic, whatever is used in modeling is available also for other purposes. Probably you have shirt boxes made of a clear stuff. Probably you bought some electronic device blistered in clear. So try to take a look around you. It often happens that the plastics they are made of are not suitable for gluing with normal styrene glue, but adhere well with white glue (or Crystal Clear) that is good for canopies. Within 15 minutes drive from me, there are some factories that make blisters for medicines and have lot of this stuff. You have too. http://www.msl-indy.com/packaging.h

Hi TuveB No matter what kind of ballast you will use, you may just put over the taped fuselage any kind of weight, until the aircraft tips forward. Then you prepare as much lead shots as the weight you used. Another way is to append a little plastic bag with a cord and add leads directly. Best of all I found the old lead tubing I got by a plumber, when replacing an old plant. When useing lead, do not forget to glue and seal it with epoxy. Regards Euge

Just take a look to this: one of the best online references for aircraft wheels. Note that the DC-7 C front wheel is geometrically the same as the Canadair CL-215 / 415 main one. This is the one I use for my conversion. Regards Euge