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Brent Gair

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About Brent Gair

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  1. I've finished my FS stand with the magnetic attachment. The model mounts with no holes or slots...the lower hatch can be mounted (which you can't do with the factory stand). Basic model construction is also finished but I still need warmer weather for the exterior paint job.
  2. I'm back from the dead! Not quite dead. I was posting here regularly last summer/fall but I got stuck in a strange cycle of non-recognized passwords and a non-recognized user account. Don't know what happenned. I just re-registered from scratch. I just closed up my Moebius Flying sub yesterday. Once you do that, there's nothing left but painting. However, I'm in Canada so it's not painting weather yet. In the meantime, I'm just finishing up a display stand. I've made my own stand that will support the sub without changing the complete stock configuration. I built the Seaview last fall...had a thread here about it but I think that thread has gone to internet purgatory.
  3. My often unpopular opinion about stands is that I don't like to see models impaled on vertical posts like big bugs from an insect collection. Many modelers have just developed the practice of using a vertical rod simply because it's easy. I think it takes away from the "professional" quality of a lot of work. Most modelers I see on these forums do OUTSTANDING work. I think that work is diminished by stands that scream "cheap and easy". If you look at the long history of professional display and manufacturers models, the vertical post is almost never used. If you look at amateur builders on the internet, 90% of them use a vertical post. Since 90% of modelers use a post, 90% of modelers disagree with me. If they burn me at the stake, I just hope that stake isn't a vertical post ! I might also suggest that the base of stand be painted MDF as opposed to wood. Why? Well, as you can see, I've used wood and it's very nice...very nice indeed. The problem is that many modelers use cheap pine or spruce plaques for the wooden base and those are very difficult to finish properly. MDF with some textured paint is quite pleasing and MDF is really cheap. Wood is great if you are willing to select and properly finish it. I can't comment specifically about Cloud City because I'm just not that familiar with it. What I would say to any scratchbuilder is to check out the great deals you can get on a bench mounted scroll saws. They are incredibly handy and suitable ones can now be found for under $100.00. Let's face it, when you think of something like the Moebius Seaview, $100.00 is the price of new kit! A drill press is a great tool for the scratchbuilder. It's one of the basics and you've got that. The scroll saw is the next basic tool (IMHO). You'll soon find that you use it to trim wood the same way that you use scissors to trim paper...just darn handy.
  4. The first thing I'd ask you before I offerred any advice would be, "What kind of tools do you have?" Big projects for a guy with an Xacto knife and a Dremel tool are a bit different than big projects for a guy with a bandsaw and a lathe . Anything can be scratchbuilt in any size. I made a 102" ship from wood, a .5" flying saucer from aluminum and few things in the 30" range from foam and fiberglass. And I have some big opinions about display stands (actually, I can be obnoxiously opinionated about stands ! )
  5. Funny thing...as soon as I posted it, I thought, "I forgot to tell people how big it is". It's about 18" tall. My woodshop has gotten better over the years but it's still rudimentary. I don't have anything that any regular Joe couldn't pick up cheap. My wood lathe is just something I ordered out of the Sears catalogue 15 years ago. I bought a book to teach myself how turn wood. Most of the stuff I have is just light duty equipment from Sears or Home Depot. The only seriously imposing piece of gear I have is a 14" Delta bandsaw. I'd love to make a simple kit someday. I keep telling myself that will be an upcoming project. Honestly, if casting supplies were easier to get around here, I think I would have done it by now. One day..
  6. Here's what I did with my old living room couch in 2003. I had just bought a big screen TV and I had to toss out the old couch to fit everything into my modest living room. Being too cheap to have it hauled to the dump. I decided to dismantle it and throw it out in the regular trash...one piece at a time. In the process of taking it apart, I found a very nice maple frame and good maple is too expensive to throw away. So I glued some old couch frame into a block and started doing some woodwork. The MARS-1 is one of the most ubiquitous classic spaceships of the 1950's. In one form or another, it probably appeared in about 5 movies. The original was FLIGHT TO MARS. IIRC, that was about 1951. Later, airlocks were added and it became the Challenge 142 from IT! THE TERROR FROM BEYOND SPACE. I'm a fan of the classic silver ships with silver wings. I never got into what I call the "sewage treatment plant" school of spaceship design. For a generation, movie spaceships have been designed with leaking pipes, venting steam, dripping oil and pervasive rust stains. I don't get the appeal of orbiting garbage scows. I'm told that they are "more realistic". Hmmm. If I ever get into that style, I've got some rusty old toilet parts from my last bathroom renovation that will be perfect for the job. Meanwhile, this plain old silver ship will have to do.
  7. I have just read that Moebius now does believe that the "burn" is caused by a reaction triggered by the metallic styrene. They intend to end the use of that plastic and will use plain grey styrene from now on.
  8. Moebius thinks that the problem may not be in the vinyl but in a compound in the plastic which is reacting to the vinyl. According to Dave Metzner (a product development guy whose name appears on Moebius products), he has checked his old stash of Polar Lights cars (he used to work for PL) which use the same vinyl compound in the tires. According to him, none of them show this problem. Early suspicion has fallen on a coloring agent used in the plastic for the Chariot. The thought is that the coloring agent is triggering the reaction. No final word yet.
  9. I've not personally dealt with this problem myself so I'm not entirely sure how to handle it. My initial concern is with the storage of the kit because the vinyl parts are not packed separately but are inside a bag with the chassis parts (I don't have the kit yet). Once assembled, I don't THINK there will be more than a small area of contact. The vinyl tread will touch a drive gear. And I guess the tires are mounted on plastic wheels (?). I beleive the tread and tires will be in contact so it will be mostly vinyl to vinyl. Foil between the surfaces should certainly work. Sounds like a good idea. I've also heard that a barrier coat like Future or epoxy will work.
  10. As a huge Lost in Space fan, I look forward to this. One thing...get the treads and tires away from the plastic. I have read multiple reports of contact damage where the flexible tires and treads are in contact with parts of the chassis. Right now, this is not a critical problem. Moebius has been made aware of the issue. This type of problem has been found in other models in the past (thinking of the great debacle of the AMT Tigercats with vinyl tires). If you separate the parts now, you should be ok. I have fears about these kits being saved in boxes as this problem will get continously worse as the kits sit in storage. The Chariot has only been on the market for a month and widespread reports of contact melting are very disturbing when they appear so early. That is why I will not order multiple ones like I did with the Space Pod. Until Moebius starts to bag the flexible parts separately, the boxed kits may show steady deterioration. That's a shame since Moebius is doing such fine work.
  11. I expect your grandkids will never asked about the days when color TV was new...because they'll probably have no concept that B&W ever existed! Funny thing, I'm NOT a fan of Star Trek (it's been done to death) but I actually own the first season on HD DVD so I watch it in high defintion on a 51" HDTV. Oh, I also have a Blu-ray player but a Blu-ray version hasn't been released yet. The great irony is that most of the classic shows (including the Irwin Allen stuff) were shot on 35mm film and can be transferred in high defintion. But some of the later shows in the 70's and following years were direct to tape and can never be seen in true HD. In fact, at one time, Image Entertainment said that THE TWILIGHT ZONE would be getting a high definition release (no date yet). As for TIME TUNNEL, I've thought about modeling that myself for the obvious reason that it hasn't been kitted. But, ya' know, I can't help but think that Moebius has something up their sleeves. Moebius currently has a license for all of the Irwin Allen TV properties. The "Fantasy World's of Irwin Allen" logo that you see on the boxes is trademarked by Synthesis Entertainment which is the licensing arm for the Allen properties. Synthesis was formed by Kevin Burns and Jon Jasni (Burns is a huge Irwin Allen fan and his name is attached as a producer to almost everything related to Allen...including the DVDs). This is currently the one, big TV license that Moebius has and they seem intent on exploiting it. Note the release in rapid succesion of the Seaview, Pod, Chariot, upcoming Flying Sub and their statement that they have a couple of other Irwin Allen projects in works (and they say the Spindrift is not high on the list). Could they release the first injection molded Time Tunnel kit? Oh...my Space Pod (first Space Pod) is locked away in it's display case so I won't worry about any modifications to the interior color (Ill post a pic in the Space Pod Thread).
  12. I think 1/32 scale would make it about 12" across. I haven't really investigated the specs but I look at this way. The average diameter ofa U.S. sub at the time the Seaview was designed was 33'. The Seaview is about in proportion to a normal sub. Given that the Flying Sub would fit inside the Seaview, near the wider forward fins, I would figure it to be 32' across. So figure a 1/32 model to be a foot across...give or take. Yeah, that screen cap WOULD have been handy a week ago. Oh well. As I've said, I try to be accurate but it's not practical to screen every episode looking for every possible view.
  13. Rusty, I'm "this close" to acquiring the Moebius Seaview (I took at look at your sprue shot thread). At the moment, I'm still mulling over options...since I'm in Canada and local shops have dried up. But it may be only hours until I have the issue resolved. I don't mean to sound cryptic but whenever I open my mouth too early, something usually goes wrong like an item being out of stock. I'm at the point where I don't a rat's behind about continuity problems bewteen various Irwin Allen miniatures and full size sets. The Spindrift was crazy. the Two main miniatures didn't match each other and then didn't match the full size set by a country mile. My Spindrfit is basically "studio scale" but it doesn't match the 38" miniature. It's patterned more closely on the full size set. Irwin Allen stuff is all over the map and we just have to learn to live with it. FLASH: Dave Metzner with Moebius confirms a 1/32 scale Flying Sub model is in development.
  14. I’m a big fan of all the Irwin Allen shows and I wanted to do a scratchbuild of one of the vessels. I ordered Seaview plans…and they were useless. They looked like scaled up amateur drawings of the Aurora kit. Lost in Space is my favorite show but there were already plenty of LIS vehicles available. The SPINDRIFT from Land of the Giants won almost by default. Ironically, I haven’t seen the show in 38 years and I have few specific memories of it. It’s the only Allen show I don’t own on DVD (too expensive). But the ship is gorgeous and I thought it would be a great project. It was a very involved undertaking and there are too many details for one post. Here’s the condensed version. I got three sets of plans and “averaged†them to make my own drawings. Construction was primarily common insulation foam covered with a couple of layers of fiberglass and epoxy resin. Some wooden framing was used. Virtually every component was scratch built including the dome which I vacuformed myself. Paint was auto touch-up lacquer from spray cans. As I recall, it’s about 38†long. I built is about 2, maybe 3 years ago.
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