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Everything posted by bashace

  1. I used to use Oven Cleaner spray (the foaming type) to remove the paint from pre-painted model railroad locomotive shells, sounds harsh but it worked well. A lot of toy grade models are painted in something other than Acrylic to make them more durable for playing with.
  2. Toothpick drops of Zap Formula 560, doesn't dry brittle which makes weapons prone to breaking off if jarred, used to glue canopies on Radio Controlled airplanes, dries very clear.
  3. It's probably cheaper and faster to have a master master make you the parts you want to cast, just my humble opinion.
  4. Very cool! Looks like the box is tasty too!
  5. With these raised panel line kits, it's important to minimize the amount of collateral sanding you have to do, I use the old trick of masking the putty area to preserve the nearby details. Make sure to remove the masking before the putty starts to cure.
  6. The Tiger got some love today, did a general, light wet-sanding around the airframe. So far the only area that has received some putty is the nose cone to fuselage joint, just to big of a gap to try and work with. Shot a coat of Tamiya White Primer to see what areas may need a little putty, doesn't look like it will need too much (not counting the underside wing gaps).
  7. You've gotten through most of the hard work, should be down hill from here!
  8. A little trick I use for those pesky masking issues, if you brush the masking over the tape when applying, it will easily pull the dried liquid mask off with it when removed.
  9. Been struggling with this Corroguard issue, I mixed metallic steel (80%), light grey (20%), and a few drops of white together hoping to get some sort of match for this coating. After a couple of days fighting with it I just accepted what I came up with and shot it. It may have to change as I see more of it on the airframe...
  10. You did a great job on those cowls! I can feel the anxiety building up thinking about messing with those on the kit I was building, in fact, that's probably where I put it back in the box for later...lol!
  11. You're doing a great job with this kit, really bringing those details out!
  12. Back on the Saber Dog! Paint still a little weird, using rubber gloves just in case. Shot some Radome Tan over the nose, removing the masking had no effect on the paint, think we're good to go!
  13. Lower wing seam is an abortion, reason for the big clamps. I'm sure if I had a Dremel with a sanding drum I could get the fit to be flush without excessive force. If I had some plastic card I could of closed the gaps in the fit. Bottom line, none of these problems are insurmountable without the right tools/materials and a little effort.
  14. Here's what the upper and lower seam looks like, about the same all the way around. I use a Squadron Scraper to remove only the unwanted areas along the seam, it's curved blade allows for accurate scraping along the seam only, can leave raised areas crossing the seam intact.
  15. Getting the major parts to align properly to minimize additional finishing work takes a bit of time and patience, especially if you are trying to preserve the raised details.
  16. The aft fuselage area gave me the most trouble, glued one side at a time to get it to fit.
  17. These are always cool little planes to have on the display shelf. When I was a kid I got to "fly" another kids Me-163 in the great housing area air war, I was told to hide it so it didn't get bombed be the enemy, well I never found it again, it's probably still in that bush somewhere. He did a great job on the camo...lol!
  18. Very nice, I like the fact they included Safety Belts on the seats, a big improvement over the F-5E boxing.
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