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Floyd, Great work as usual. Look forward to seeing this project progress. David

Remington, If you check out the "Scale Rotors" site gallery, Leif Weber had done a very nice conversion of a B0-105 to CBS Super 5(extended version as you had described). I am planning on doing such a conversion in the near future to replicate one of the New Jersey State Police aircraft first used here about 20 years ago. Two kits are usually required to do the conversion, which with a little experience doesn't look too difficult. As mentioned above, the kits are fairly readily available from E-bay or on-line hobby shops. Leif is a great guy, and can describe the steps and measurements ne

Remington, She's looking really good! Of course, now I have to go outside and make sure that my stretcher is still in my aircraft... It was there this morning(LOL)! Just as a suggestion, unless you are going to use a bit of creative license, the oxygen tubing and mask are not usually found on rotorcraft crew members, as we don't usually fly high enough to require them. Can't wait to see your next update. David

Here is my list: 1. HH60-J (US Coast Guard) 2. Bell 412 3. Bell 206 Longranger 4. HH3F Pelican (US Coast Guard) 5. HH-65 (US Coast Guard) 6. Bell 407 I did advise that I tend to build larger scale (1/32 or 1/35). I realize that I am in the minority, but it doesn't hurt to ask... David

I can't speak for inkjet printed decals, as I have only made ALPS printed ones. But, I have had great sucess on the latter with Testors Gloss Lacquer (1961). One or two light mist coats, goes on like a dream, is very thin, and I have never had a problem. A friend had made me some special decals that he had printed on a combination of inkjet ink/paper, and ALPS ink/appropriate paper. He suggested that I overcoat them with the Krylon Crystal Clear. I used it on the inkjet decals, and although it was probably my technique, they came out very thick and pebbly. I would reccommend that as with

Decisions, decisions... Currently, I have four that come readily to mind: 1. 206A-1 - first medevac rotorcraft used by the Delaware State Police. http://www.airliners.net/photo/Delaware-St...iowa/1320810/M/ 2. 206L-4 - Delaware State Police Longranger. This was the first aircraft that I flew in back in 2001.(credits on both DSP photos to Alex McMahon) http://www.airliners.net/photo/Delaware-St...nger/0615423/L/ 3. BO-105 S5 - Original medevac aircraft of the New Jersey State Police, also known as Southstar. This program began back in 1988. I was a paramedic at the hospital where t

Hi John, I too have been playing around with airbrushes off and on for years. Got really comfortable with spray cans for my automotive emergency vehicle subjects. As I am now seriously getting into rotorcraft, I have been investigating and playing around with the airbrushes. I actually have three... There is a wealth of information both in the Tools n' Tips section here, and the Finescale Modeler website under Painting. I have been enjoying learning with Tamiya paints, Polly Scale clears, and some of the Testors Acryls and Enamels. I have also recently looked into Vallejo paints, as the

Cagie, You ar correct. Many operators in the US find that the Eurocopter airframes fit their mission profiles well, and contain operating and maintenance costs. In my experience, the EC-135 is the most popular, followed second by the 145. Some programs do primarily emergency scene calls and can use a smaller aircraft and fly with three person crew. Other programs do more "interfacitlity" or "hospital to hospital" transfers. These often require more equipment(=more space and heavier payload required) , or larger specialty teams. My program does mostly interfacility transfers including ve

Tim, I just looked at the 1/32 ADAC version of the Revell EC-135 kit. I never realized that the top of the fenestron was off. I did know that the bottom tail fin needs to be modified, as the one in this particular version is very small. As you can see from the photo below, it appears that the upward slope of the top of the fenestron tail fin on the ADAC kit is correct. When I saw your photo, I thought that the kit was incorrect. Our ship is a P2, but I believe that that refers to the Pratt and Whitney engines, not the airframe configuration. Our ship also has the mechanical components(c

I think that I may have found the ellusive paint color for the blue portion of the aircraft above - Vallejo French Blue :D . I had actually purchased it for the interior seating surfaces, but didn't consider it for the exterior blue color. I have been looking for about two years for the right "premixed color" while trying to work out the logistics of paint scheme - where to use decals, paint, paint masks... I appreciate the feedback and assistance from the members. David

Remington and Tim, Thanks for your replies! Looks like this is going to be a great group build. PM/e-mail will be on their way. I apologize for highjacking the thread. I look forward to seeing everyone's progress during this build. David

Remington, Great ideas! For shear graphic variety and appeal, I would choose number 1. Tim, I have been agonizing over the execution of the rather simple, (yawn) Air Methods paint scheme on the EC-135 that is my office: I have struggled with the issues that you mentioned above, and haven't been able to work out the logistics of paint/decal areas... I have considered custom paint masks, but don't know if they would pose the same problems on the complex curves as decals? Any advice or suggestions that you or any of the members could provide would be appreciated. I am trying to get the

Anthony, Once again, you never cease to amaze me. Your work is simply fantastic! I know the covers for the dual flight controls in our EC-135 quite well, as I kick them regularly when entering/egressing the aircraft. Nice job on your set for the BK. Every time we have a BK in our hangar(we are the regional maintenance facility for the Northeastern US) I think of your project. Our mechanics are probably sick of hearing me ramble on about how highly detailed and well executed your project is(LOL). They also keep asking me when I am going to start our EC-135? My wife is having major surge

For those of you who use this great product, any tips on the following? 1. Way to reduce the noxious fumes that eminate from this stuff? I do my modeling in the house, and try to have adequate ventilation, but my wife and kids dread when I use the stuff... It is too cold here in the Northeast to just go outside, or do in the garage. 2. Ways to reduce or contain some of the dust from sanding it? I have thought about rigging up the shop vac near my work bench, or attempting to wet sand, but most often use the inexpensive nail buffing boards(coarse) that dissolve when used wet. I like th

I have been told lacquer thinner. Although I have yet to try it myself, I don't know if it has to be the Tamiya brand or if any lacquer thinner will do. I have heard that the Tamiya brand lacquer thinner is not as "hot" so it will have less of a tendency to damage the plastic underneath. I am sure that others can advise specifically. I have been very happy with the Tamiya Fine White Surface Primer from a spray can, but also want to try airbrushing it for thinner coats and better control. David

Oliver, Sorry to hear about your rivets lifting... Your weathering IS incredible! I have yet to attempt such feats, but am willing to give the techniques a try. I am first going to work on washes and drybrushing. Your work is an inspiration. David

Scott, It depends on what you plan to do with it. I really like mine. I have one that I use extensively for cutting out the wheelwells for model emergency vehicle cabs and bodies built from sheet plastic. Most of these are 1/25 scale, so the smaller size issue mentioned above is not a problem for me. It works great, but as with any new tool, requires some practice to master scoring a consistant circle. I do find that placing a few pieces of masking tape at your center point helps to keep the point from jumping loose, as well as from digging into the center of the disc that you are cutt

Andrew, What more can I add that hasn't already been said? Great execution, details and paint. I really like the tie-downs as well. David

Andrew, After the pre-flight, and start up sequence, I KNOW THAT THIS AIRCRAFT WILL LIFT TO A HOVER! Ted, FANTASTIC! Your attention to detail is incredible. Your work is an inspiration. David

Anthony, Thanks for posting Todd's build in this section. I don't usually look at the "in Progress" section, so I missed his post. As you know, I love 412's, and want to build one in the future. I have a 1/35 scale Panda in my "stash", so will be following his build with great interest. I eventually will get another 1/32 Revell Huey, as I know that you will be basing your 412 off of it. Mine probably won't have the level of detail that you and Todd will include, but I look forward to your builds none the less. Thanks again! David

Todd, What an incredible build! I have wanted to do a 412 for a long time. Actually started to do one with a Revell 1/32 Huey kit many years ago without much success. Now, my local state police fly one that is based about five miles from where I live. I have a Panda 1/35 in my stash, so I will be following your build with great interest. Everything looks great so far. I will have to look at the pages that I have copied from the Bell website. Any idea of what percentage you enlarged the drawings to get the correct size? Look forward to future updates! David

Andrew, She looks spectacular! Although I am not a big camo fan, you have done an excellent job. Can't wait to see the next update. David

Cheers, I plan to try preshading for the first time. The finish color coat of the aircraft will be gloss white. It will also be one that is well maintained. Any suggestions on what color I should use? Primer will be Tamiya White Surface primer. Thanks. David

Oliver, WOW! That is beautiful. What a work of art - one can tell even with the fuzzy photos from the magazine. Norbert, thanks for sharing. David

Oliver, I have never done any "preshading(is that the correct term?) or washes before. I would probably try them on my next build. I had thought about applying a wash to the vents on the engine cowling, but the detail of this particular kit as well as my thick paint/Future coats led me away from trying this step. Although I did a lot of reading/research on appying Future/masking the "glass", I need to work on developing this skill. Dropping the model and breaking loose the windscreen and chin bubble didn't help either... Thanks to everyone for their encouragement, constructive critiscism