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Happy New Year Gents! Well, I have been able to squeeze in a little modeling time between family, work, and the holidays. This project is nearing completion. While it is not perfect, it is my first helicopter - hopefully one of many more to come. I did learn many things from this project, and that is what it is all about(as well as having fun). I still have to add the pitot tube, antennae, paint the anti-collision lights, etc. I think that I will go with the floats instead of the skids, as they are just different- you don't see many aircraft models with them. I am working on a wooden di

Gerald, Any hints on keeping the tip of the Touch N Flow applicator from getting clogged? I have tried them twice in the past, each time getting clogged shortly after "first use". I was careful(at least I thought so) to empty the tube of liquid cement... Thanks. David

Meindert, Wow! Simply remarkable. Very clean build. Nice attention to detail, and very colorful. I appreciate your explanation of the building process, part numbers, and modifications. I will soon be building a replica of the EC-135 that I fly on. All of your hints, tips, and suggestions are great. I will try the frisket film for the sliding windows. I am not familiar with the "Clear Fix". Is it for attaching clear parts, or something else? I have printed a copy of your post to use as a guide when building my model. Thanks again. David

Curt, That's what I did. The other way that I remember it is: In the alphabet, "E" in Set comes before the "O " in Sol. David

Luigi, Thanks for your offer, but you needn't trouble yourself. Your description is great! I have gotten some good ideas on how to proceed. Now, I just have to find the time... I hope you're feeling better. David

Yes Dan, Exactly! Nicely done. Any tips? Thanks. David

Hi Guys, As I am wrapping up my first rotorcraft project, I am thinking about making a simple display base for it. My only familiarity of the subject is civilian, hospital based helipads. As my USCG Jetranger would most likely be "based" at a Coast Guard facility, I am looking for ideas of what the ground markings would look like? I have already purchased a simple basswood plaque, wood stain, clear varnish etc. I plan to spray some 150 grit sandpaper as the asphalt "tarmac" This will be weathered with some washes/airbrushing, and the appropriate markings masked and painted(white/yellow

Well, After several weeks on the "back burner", the Jetranger is back on the bench. I felt that the kit supplied main rotor mast was just too weak and spindly(is that a word)? I thought I would try my hand at making one out of brass and plastic. Although it lacks some of the detail of the original, it definitely is stronger, and fits into the hole in the top of the fuselage(since I glued it together prior to placing this piece - OOPS!). I painted it up, and attached it to the rotorhead. Glued the whole thing together - I was pretty excited to see my first helicopter model coming tog

Nice start Michael. Looks like another winner! Look forward to following the progress on this one. David

Everett, Nice story. I am a flight nurse with an Air Methods program in the Northeast. We fly an EC-135. Air Methods is a very safety oriented company. Most people have no idea of the amount of safety that is designed, built into and lived every day in our aeromedical culture. We have a policy called "Three to go - one to say no". Basically, if any one of the crew(pilot, medic, or nurse) is not comfortable about any aspect of the flight, we turn the mission down. Many companies don't have that. Our pilots are not given any medical information about the flight prior to accepting a miss

Mark, Really nice work. I too, especially like the paint job on the Huey. It is nice to see something other than the standard olive drab(sorry guys- no offense intended). Nice job on the 47 as well. That must have taken some patience... David

How about a small piece of Teflon tape? If you have a roll, it may be worth a try... David

Spitfire, Obviously, everyone's situation is different. But, it sounds like you know what you want - the Alclad. I don't know where you are located, but you should be able to get some shipped to you via an Internet based shop, or ask if your LHS can order you the colors that you want? You have invested a lot of your time and money on your project. It would be ashame to see you use something that would give you disappointing results... As with any new technique, experiment first on something that isn't important. I prefer to use bottled water containters, or soda bottles. They are cheap

Anyone here ever built a HH3F Pelican in 1/48 scale? From the limited research that I have done, no one offers this variant in 1/48 scale, so I would probably have to do a major conversion of one of the available kits. Just curious how difficult/challenging it would be? I can see that the tail boom is highly differnt, as well as the intake area over the cabin, possibly the doors and sponsons, etc... In looking around the Internet, it appears that I may have to combine the front cabin of a Hasegawa SH3H Seaking, , and the rear portion of a Revell CH53G, and/or an Academy CH53E. I am curr

Mike, Yet another great job! Nice work on the skids. I think I speak for everyone here, that if it's not giving away too many of your secrets, a step-by-step tutorial on how you make them would be appreciated. Look forward to seeing what your next project will be... Also we would love to see your 412 fleet, and how you did the conversions. But that is a whole other subject and thread... ;) Thanks. David

Mike, WOW! The decals really tie everything together. A nice clean build, classic lines, and bright graphics! Super job. I think you have inspired at least a few Longranger projects... David

To carry the CA glue idea just a little further, one of the best tips that I have received recently, is the use of Loctite Superglue GEL. It's thick consistency allows you great control of where you place the glue, AND the way that it's packaged keeps it from getting clogged and drying out. It is very inexpensive, and one of my most used tools these days. Everyone's suggestions are great. Welcome back to modeling. Remember - it is supposed to be fun. Don't get too stressed about the details. Enjoy! David

Wow Mike! Fantastic! You have really brought this project to life! What an inspiration. From the perfect proportions and body lines, to the new scratchbuilt skids and graphics. I know that others will try and hit the benchmark that you have set the standard for. Makes me wish that I was at home today(at work instead) working on marking the cuts for the Jetranger kit. I think you may have started something... David

I agree with Anthony. If you go on the Bell website, you can look under the airframe type that you are interested in, and the download the brochure for the specific aircraft. You can print whatever images or drawings that interest you. Many airframe brochures have over a hundred pages, If you are careful, and don't choose "All", you won't waste a lot of paper and ink. This will alllow you to get the specific drawings that you want without a lot of waste. I am also planning on completing at least one 412, but it is also a "long range" project. Good luck to you. Look forward to following

EC-135, Nice progress thus far. I like the addition of the control panel from the 145. I will have to compare it to the one that in the EC-135 P2 model that I fly in at work. I am gathering reference materials, photographs, kits and parts for a build of that aircraft soon. Following Anthony's lead, I may build two of them at the same time. Our sister ship is identical, with the exception of a WSPS kit, and tail number. Does the Luftrettung kit have the updated fenestron tail rotor sprue that was included in the Polis kit? Thanks. David

Hey Guys, Yes, another question... I had built a simple spray booth several years ago using a range hood. It worked okay, but wasn't powerful enough. Eventually, the fan became frozen from the paint going through it. The opening of the booth is 30 inches by 20 inches. I am now looking to replace the blower motor with something more powerful. I have read that some booths removes between 100-150 cfm, and others recommend 300-500 cfm. I have looked on-line at the Grainger catalog http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/categorie...rifugal-blowers , there are so many choices... I don't have a

Where are you getting your Gunze products from? The Internet searches that I have done have mostly come up with older, outdated posts, "not in stock", or discontined" messages in the US... Any help would be appreciated. In the mean time, can I use "hardware store" lacquer thinner with the Tamiya primer, or do I need the Tamiya specific lacquer thinner? I usually stick with the proprietary brand products, but don't have any on hand and the only shop in my area doesn't carry it. Thanks. David

Keith and Oliver, I don't know how broad an interest ranger there is, but I would buy one. Coming from a car and truck modeling background, there is definitely a different mindset and techniques that we use here. If it is not practical or cost effective to write and publish a book, how about a "TUTORIALS" section that is "pinned". That way, new modelers would know where to begin, and more experienced modelers looking for "how to do" something specific can learn. I know that we have the "Tools 'n Tips section here, but I was thinking something more specific. Sometimes the "search" featu

Hey Guys, Mr. Surfacer is not available around where I live. I have purchased the Tamiya Liquid White Surface Primer in the 40 ml bottle(love the spray in the rattle can too). When I used it, is seemed to be a little "gummy" when sanded. I thought that I had allowed it enough time to dry(24 hrs.). I used it straight from the bottle, though now I know that I can thin it out with lacquer thinner. I have also learned that I can airbrush it after thinning, to get finer coats that with a rattle can. Cool! My question is this: For those of you who have used both, does the Mr. Surfacer per

Gentlemen, Thanks for your responses and input. Aside from the cap, it is an orginal one piece all black cup. I looked at all of the local hobby/art supply stores without success. I am going to try one of the "Blick" stores here in Philadelphia after work tonight. The frugal(cheap) side of me just can't spend $9 on shipping for a $3 dollar part(LOL). David