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SouthViper

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Posts posted by SouthViper

  1. "Taking the Windows development history, the F16, Mirage 2000, E2C were windows 1.0, the Kfir, Mirage IIIE, Harrier FA2, Fouga are 2.0, the AMX and SuE are 3.0"

    By the way Mr. Raymond, when does Kinetic will revisit the F-16 molds to bringing they to actual standards?

    SouthViper

  2. Dear Jim,

    certainly I would go with the ZM kit to do the conversion you want. The best kit for Your best masterpiece.

    It really is necessary to sand off the armor plates for the Korean version, I believe they were AD-3s that time.

    I highly recommend the Skyraider book series In Action (Squadron Signal Pu.) that brings good designs pointing out the differences between versions.

    To uniformly sanding the shielding plates there is a technique : making a small caliber hole in the wing or fuselage section which DOES NOT have the

    shield, measuring the thickness with a piece of wire/sprue.

    Then make several holes of the same caliber in various parts of the armor plates, in which are then inserted those wires/sprues (measured from sections

    without shielding plates) sanding off the plates until they reach the height of wires/sprues.

    Whenever you use sandpaper is recommended to adapt it into a piece of wood or metal so that the thinning is uniform, avoiding ripples.

    The various modifications on aircraft frames (antennas, guns, pylons, etc...) and cockpits are easily done.

    SouthViper

  3. I have some feelings for "X" and "Y" aircraft projects.

    The TSR-2 would be a BIG project and looking around I did not found the Airfix kit itself but

    I do found some resin sets.... 173,10 Euros... not counting some PE sets... nor decals ...

    SouthViper

  4. Liam

    The Academy 1/48 kit is NSI , so PW engines/exhaust.

    I believe Seamless Suckers (SS) in too long out of business and theirs resin set was for Hasegawa F-16's, but since the Academy's F-16 is almost a Xerox from the Hasegawa kit it would works.

    Take a look at CMK : http://www.cmkkits.com/en/detail-sets-accessories/index.php?fSort=3&fSeries=0&fScale=16&fNationality=0&fEra=0&fMaker=0&from=170

    015910_05_066163.jpg?seek=1336045687

    Some of the NEW Tamiya F-16 kits have both inlets in the box so I think it will not difficult some another modeler negotiate the parts You need.

    SouthViper

  5. Well, there are some offers in 1/48 of the T-38 Talon.

    I would like to know What is the best 1/48 kit of the T-38 Talon A,B,or C, specially regarding the accurate dimensions

    and "area rule" correctly shaped.

    I saw some time ago that one of these kits would have wrong dimensions and fuselage/canopy sills wrong angled so I

    am trying to find the best kit.

    Thanks

    SouthViper

  6. Not necessarily "bad" art but I found the captured moment in time so humorous I had to get the kit. I may have to get a 1/72 P-40 and do a diorama of this. The Opel Blitz Hovertruck with the P-40 chase plane:

    roden710reviewgp_box.jpg

    What is that on the ground next Opel Blitz ? looks like some rests of a pterodactyl ?

    SouthViper

  7. I am building the TF-102A using the Monogram F-102A kit and the

    C&H Aero Miniatures conversion kit http://www.candhaerominiatures.com/catalog/tf102.htm

    The real F-102A was 68' 1,8" including Pitot which means 43,28 Centimeters in 1/48,

    which is absolutely correct for the Monogram kit.

    The real TF-102A was 63' 5,7" including Pitot which means 40,30 Centimeters in 1/48.

    * The F-102 Detail & Scale book, By Bert Kinzey, page 41.

    And here is my doubt, because adapting the resin C&H front to the rear Monogram fuselage my measurement goes for 41,7 Centimeters. (with Pitot)

    So what am I doing wrong and most important how can I improve this ?

    Thanks

    Mario

  8. As I posted over on BM, I personally think this is much ado about nothing.

    I have some issues on my kit. However, once sway braces are installed and paint, decals, and weathering etc. applied to the kit, I think most of the concerns will not be as apparent.

    If this is stopping you from building now, you might as well give up the hobby

    But, that's just my opinion.

    regards,

    John

    ... hey John , and it looks like a lot with an F-4 hein ?

    SouthViper

  9. since the angles of the wings and elevators are measured from a longitudinal axis of an aircraft, I wonder what is the correct angle for the

    F-4 Phantom II  installation of the MLGs?

    Comparing the MLG bays of the F-4s 1/48, from Monogram X Academy X Hasegawa, I was surprised to see great differences between

    the two firsts kits and the latter.

    SouthViper

     

  10. quote: Jennings

    Posted 17 February 2014 - 05:45 PM

    Looks like that's part of the tooling, not just a case of poor molding. The tool was made

    incorrectly for whatever reason, and nobody seems to have caught it.

    I was affraid that would be the case but taking a closer look overall the F-4C Academy kit,

    I have confirmed that mainly the Vertical Tail, both inner wing pylons and both outer wing

    panels (maily at the hinges) are ALSO ruined by malformation caused by bad plastic injection.

    Somebody at Academy forgot to adjust the machines... Imagem_15974727686_Spazio_platinum_Plus.jpg

    SouthViper

  11. Thanks for Your efforts guys, the problem I have trying explain is fully discovered now.

    Great pics JeffreyK , I was considering taking some pics too to show here for clarification for what point I was referring,

    and Your two firsts photos show the problem very well.

    Ben Brown , sorry for Your disappointment and Your statement "You can feel them if you run your finger along the underside of the wing" is

    exactly I was about to say.

    Now I have doubts if that "wavy" is caused by injected plastic malformation in some kits because NOW it looks to be more a bad

    engineering of that part, and this means that no replacement part will fix the "problem"... :crying2:

    SouthViper

  12. Thanks for Your efforts guys, the problem I have trying explain is fully discovered now.

    Great pics JeffreyK , I was considering taking some pics too to show here for clarification for what point I was referring,

    and Your two firsts photos show the problem very well.

    Ben Brown , sorry for Your disappointment and Your statement "You can feel them if you run your finger along the underside of the wing" is

    exactly I was about to say.

    Now I have doubts if that "wavy" is caused by injected plastic malformation in some kits because NOW it looks to be more a bad

    engineering of that part, and this means that no replacement part will fix the "problem"... :crying2:

    SouthViper

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